Location: Magnolia, Texas Wood-Epoxy Strip-Plank Construction I've been reading Dave Gerr's excellent The Elements of Boat Strength, and I'm curious what the general opinion around here is of his work and theories. Location: Milwaukee, WI His numbers are about the same as using Herreshoff's formula.
Location: Eustis, FL Actually, the Herreshoff rule will yield slightly lower figures.
Clearly a 7' frame spacing isn't right, though 7' partitions could be, given your hull length and some of the strip plank types. Originally Posted by PAR Clearly a 7' frame spacing isn't right, though 7' partitions could be, given your hull length and some of the strip plank types. He goes on to discuss other modifications to previous formulas for double-diagonal and other types of strip-planking, but I'm only interested in the 'classic' strip-planking method already covered. As far as my own project, it is in the very early stages of design, and I had always planned on trying to use sheet-plywood. Location: Eustis, FL I'm not an expert on Dave Geer's scantling rules, other then the clever approach he's taken with it, but these types of details are best left to the designer. I like the idea of it because I'm working alone, and a long skinny plank is going to be a whole lot easier to manage single-handed than a big piece of plywood. Location: Savannah,Ga 'Strip planking' is not even what this really is other than talking of the method. Location: Sydney Australia I would really like to see a tutorial here on double or triple diagonal planking using strip veneers.
Location: Eustis, FL Double planking is as the name suggests and is two layers of planking, one typically is fore and aft while the other is on a bias.
Location: New Zealand Oldsailor, Gougeon Brothers wooden boat building book covers building with veneer and epoxy in a heap of detail. I built a Crowther 38 Impala in double diagonal planking so I am familiar with the process. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. All prices are in New Zealand Dollars (NZD) and all orders are subject to our Terms & Conditions. Location: auckland nz Thanks Steve, you'd be more in touch with that US history than me. The idea was to match the curvature of the spar to the sag of the leech and thereby manage twist without breaking the boat in half.

The wing in the picture with Dave and Tony isn't the original turntable rig, but the first double slotted wing. Steve Clark says I'm wrong in thinking Coyote 1's hard rig predated that of Nylex, and actually was influenced by the Australian cat's wing design.
Location: Narragansett Bay RI According to what I know, US 93 was Coyote V. Originally Posted by Gary Baigent Discovered these old prints while sorting through my back shed collection looking for stuff on Des Townson designs for a forthcoming biography researched by Brian Peet - whose father John Peet was the instigator of the Young designed 12 foot Kitty cats in NZ, raced in the 12 foot Q Class, won it easily and was immediately banned from competition.
Anyway these Australian prints were handed to me years ago by John Glennie, famous or infamous owner of the tri Rose Noelle, which they lived on for four months inverted.
Silver Raven (and others) might be interested in the shots of Lock Crowther's C Class Helios with its large sectioned full wing, also Red Roo and Nylex. Location: auckland nz I'll try and do a better scanning job, FcH - although the prints here were carefully worked on, they're still not great. Location: Eugene, OR My father-in-law, Bill Steane, built a solid wing sail C class in 1967. 2014 Round the Island Race UK underway » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Early New Zealand launches.
Specifically, his wood scantling formulas, and more specifically, his thoughts on wood-epoxy strip-plank construction for large (50'-60') vessels. Frames called for are roughly 3x9 material on the bottom, and 3x9 on the sides tapering to 3x4 near the sheer. In discussing the strip-plank method, he says that you can use structural bulkheads in lieu of frames, sized according to the rules given for FRP bulkheads, but spaced according to frame spacing given elsewhere. Again, I can rattle off at least a dozen different strip plank methods, each will have different scantlings for the same design. Triple diagonal is similar, though the ornamentation of the planking can be one of several combinations, the most common is the first layer is on a bias, the next the opposite bias and the last fore and aft. The strips are fore and aft, but the diagonal layers are veneers and on the bias to offer cross grain stiffness. I really asked that question for the benefit of others, as not everybody can afford to buy the Gougeons book. Here's a shot of the original Patient Lady plus a couple of PL2 (from an old Yacht Racing) - the 4th image you may not have seen. Nat been alive today, I suspect his rule would have been whittled down to 25% less then that of Geer's.

In fact, if memory serves me again, Dave refers back to a GRP rule for transverse elements (ring frames, bulkheads, etc.) on these types of strip builds.
Will your build method use the 'glass as part of the structure, or just as a protective sheathing?
He then gives formulas for determining the sheathing weight and the plank thickness, which is reduced because of the heavy exterior sheathing. Gerr's book has really piqued my interest in strip-planking, which I think will be easier to build alone (a long skinny plank is a lot easier to manage than a 70-lb sheet of plywood). The completed planking is then covered with layers of 'glass and epoxy, essentially forming a monocoque hull structure. Over 20 fishing spots marked and displayed in detail on the reverse side with reccomended rigs and techniques to use, best conditions with tide,wind & season.
It's important to establish which strip system you'll employ, some require full framing systems and are treated much like carvel, while others don't require internal framing in a traditional sense at all. She'll be roughly 55' x 18' x 5.5', displacement cruiser, liveaboard-type trawler for a retired couple. I sailed with Ian and Kathy a few times and raced her with Rod and Lyn subsequently when she was renamed Australia's Child. Again it's not good to mix without a very good understanding, though I'm jumping to conclusions that I shouldn't, without further definition of your project and the build method. When I ask questions about your (and his) answer, though, it's not because I don't believe you; it's because I don't understand how I misinterpreted what I thought was a pretty clear explanation of how to figure this information by Mr. I've got 20 years until retirement, so there's plenty of time to take my time and make sure I get it right. The other methods are treated by their longitudinal stiffness or as a core in a sandwiched composite. The more modern methods require a lot more 'glass work, which isn't the most pleasant thing too. Also a big cheers to the original Split Ends crew who were kind enough to take me along on a few races whilst I was building Avatar in NZ.
Hey I'm dying to see that weapon you are putting together over there up and sailing but as you say, it's not really a B24 replacement, but it sure is a beautifull example of Kiwi ingenuity.

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