Been doing a lot of research on this site and others on the subject of rot repairs to transoms and stringers. What started out as a soft sole repair has turned into a transom and stringer rebuild as well.
Location: Brisbane Rebuilding Transom on runabout As you have wisely retained the glass outside shell of the old boat, it is a perfect template for the plywood that you are about to cut as you suggested.
On the last insert, do not get any epoxy on the face toward the bow if you intend to finish the interior with fibreglass polyester, as poly does not stick to epoxy.
Now that you have made your new transom, it is VERY important now to fit the outboard carefully. What you will have done is to give the bolts a surface to set through that is obviously watertight, has reinforced the hole and also gives the nut, washers etc something to compress onto, instead of simply crushing the transom as most people do. Should the new transom core sit snugly against the sides of the hull, or should it have a gap like the old one did? Normally I'd just reproduce the piece I tore out, but it looks to me like what I tore out wasn't the factory piece.
If it makes any difference, I plan to add knee braces glassed between the new transom and new stringers, along with a splash well. The transom is brought up to the top of the corner Ryan and the cut out to suit the motor is lower in the middle.
Yes transon vertical knees are also good, depends on what horsepower you are putting on the back.


Location: maine i was just looking at your pics,, and did a quick read,, and see that you braced across ya stern,,,but you should have cross bracing too. Location: Indialantic, FL Hello, I'm in the final stages of a major transom repair on a 19' center console fishing skiff, and have over 3 grand invested, so I can appreciate the advice above.
I eventually took the boat away from him because he was trying to scam at every opportunity, and am almost finished. Also I am wondering about the motor bolt holes, and if the gap exists there, I need to remove the motor, and fill the gap there also. I'm finally getting close to some minor gelcoat refinishing, then I can re-wire and run the motor controls, and get back out on the water!
I don't think I will take on a project like this again, but I have learned a lot about boat building, design, and appreciate good construction. Most auto engine lifters (sometimes called cherry pickers) usually won't go high enough, but check around the rental shops and maybe you will find one ! The best I can think of is a cross beam (at least 2 - 2x8) supported by a couple of crossed 2x8 over the transom. Then using a rented engine lifter, you can get the engine upright and wheel it over to the cross beam and transfer it. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
If you are just painting the interior, well the epoxy glue can be smoothed out nicely in the corners to save a lot of fairing work.


I removed the inner liner, sawcut out the inner transom skin, removed all the rotted plywood, then ran out of time and energy.
Cut and fit your plywood sheets, glue with epoxy from the fibreglass transom inwards the required layers untill the thickness required is met. Glass sheave the interior again when finished, using overlaps right into the topsides (after first grinding off any gelcoat back to clear glass laminate). The hard edge of the ply in the transom area is quite OK as it is a reinforced corner anyhow, and gluing it intimately all around is only a good thing.
Then one dry, you remove the bolts, clean the holes of any wax, and then fill the holes with thickened resin.
Overlaps are to be staggered, first one at least 1 foot into the topsides, others reaching lesser degrees back to the transom. Set this spinning inside the pilot hole and it will smash out the plywood from between the glass laminate of the transom inner and outer.
Now fill this hole and the void of course with epoxy and glass filler, put some masking tape on the inside when doing this. Allow to set , then drill out the new hole to suit the bolts for the mounting of the motor.



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