Over the years we have sent thousands of customers to different web sites to get these router bits. When we started hearing from customers that the bits they purchased were causing tear out and split strips we decided that it was time to offer bits on our site to make sure the quality was right. The bits you see here are made to the same specifications and of the same material as the ones that we use in our shop. Location: WNY Fairing planks with a router I originally used this set-up to smooth the interior of a cross-planked hull after trying to plane it with a hand plane. Finally, after planking the forward deck, the hand plane was pulled out again for some preliminary planing.
On the other hand, a small footprint will mill closer to the edge and I think it will be more forgiving. I could see where the optimum base size could depend on the tightness of the radius you're trimming. If I were to try it on a hull, I'd start at the tightest convex surfaces(positive curvature) and through flat in to concave(negative curvature). Location: New Jersey Great Tip, Did you use a straight edge for each pass to work your way across the surface or just eye-balled it?


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When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I can't even cut notches out for the longitudinal runners because I don't have enough plywood to do that. One way I was thinking of doing it was to attach a bunch of short pieces between the stations and have them line up with the existing lines of the stations.
Originally Posted by War Whoop No the system works just fine when cut with the right tools. Originally Posted by CatBuilder Maybe a few screws could do the trick to hold the tightbond in place while it sets up, then just leave them in.
Location: Coastal Georgia I just found this, you've probably seen this site. The battens do take a little longer to setup, but no longer than say the first 10 to 15% of the numerous strips required for the more traditional fore and aft wood stripping. But better still, one also does not have to buy thicker foam in order to allow for the extensive fairing required with fore and aft strips to take out all the little flats, as is recommended by some promoters of fore and aft stripping methods.


Location: Eustis, FL Yep, that's a standard raised panel bit or shaper blade set. We mill thousands of strips a year and we are sure that you will be as happy as we are with the quality of these bits, if you choose to make your own strips. Being intrigued by my earlier success, I decided to try my router set-up on the mahogany topsides.
Will you be able to add the thickness of the stringers without effecting the dimensions of the hull? Used on cabinet doors most commonly (rail and stiles), though can be used on all sorts of stuff.



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