Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) I don't get items 2, 3 and 4. The rounded shoulders between the skeg and hull allowing the engine to be lowered as claimed in 4 also makes sense to me. Their website is predictably light on numbers to back up any claims of increased efficiency.
Location: Eustis, FL A bunch of preformance enhancements, yet burdened with all the extra area and drag.
Location: Milwaukee, WI A boat with so much draft needs to be really heavy to float on her designed lines. Originally Posted by gonzo A boat with so much draft needs to be really heavy to float on her designed lines.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Look at the proportion of the designed waterline to length of hull. FF FAST FRED View Public Profile View FAST FRED's Gallery Find all posts by FAST FRED Page 1 of 3 1 23 > « Help, my first 40ft boat is way too cheap! When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. When it comes to houseboat hull designs, do we choose a conventional hull design, or a pontoon boat style?We are looking at a Bluewater houseboat with a full glass hull, and also a aluminum Three Buoys pontoon boat. Location: Nowhere I have seen many hulls that have a V forward and are flat back at the transom. Location: Southern California A 'V' bow entry on a flatbottom hull eliminates one of the greatest advantage to having a flatbottom. If the bottom is tapered to a 'V', exaggerated transom lift will cause bow-steering in following seas and other undesireable handling characteristics. When angling over a swell, nothing grips the face better than a hard chine going all the way to the bow. Location: Eustis, FL Yes, this is a common configuration (V entry with flat aft sections) and has been referred to by several names over the years, like double wedge, modified V, etc. Location: florida Aquasport from 69-70 thru 79 in the 222 model had a flat bottom with a V entry and is now one of the most popular boats used by guides in the SW Florida region. Location: Eustis, FL Bulut, what you have modeled is a weird variation of a box keel boat.
The trick, you should be trying to employ is to get a fine entry and a sweet chine sweep, so the forward sections of the chine flats can help with lift. I'm not sure I understand you goals with this model, but you may want to consider more conventional approaches to these. Instead of using a V entry, i did the opposite--i made the widest point of the hull right smack dab where it is going to meet the chop AND i put the most sunstantial weight (54 gallons of fuel) from that point fwd. So there are 3 forces that come into play with the bow, The weight of the fuel, the extra width at the impact point, and the lifting of the transom which presses the bow down.

Bulut, there is very little new under the sun when it comes to small boat hull configuration. Originally Posted by Bulut is it posible to combine a "V" hull design with flat bottomed hull design?
Do a search for Surf Dory's, a larger power version, with shallow draft, slight vee-bottom, double ender of the Calkins design. The Sportfisher Bartender's, will get to the fishing grounds first in choppy seas and swells when other hull designs have to slow down. Location: Oriental, NC I'm not an advocate of flat hulls but Loveofsea has found a system that works for him.
PAR, we need to be careful about dismissing the flat bottom in rough seas without looking at his whole proposition. I use the more normal V forward with much flatter sections aft but also use an aft bottom design that lifts the stern and holds the bow down.
I'm not sure what Bulut intends for his hull but it at least partly follows the box, or canoe shape, keel with a flat upper hull that has been discuss much on forums lately. One of the design goals appear to be large interior volume within the constraints of being trailerable in North America.
With all these advantages, each Cutwater model offers the range to expand everyoneis cruise horizons while providing exceptional comfort underway.
Along either side of the keel where it meets the bottom is a rounded shoulder where the machinery compartment has been expanded to allow positioning the engine low in the hull. Well forward, the raked stem curves downward near the waterline to a slender, near-vertical forefoot that cuts oncoming waves to ensure a smooth ride. Normally one thinks of a skeg as a loner sitting back there in many cases acting as an attachment point for the rudder. They both seem to be good values for living on the river near Portland and also going out onto the Columbia to cruise. Since we're talking about a high performance hull, this hull form will be on plane 95% of the time and is quite efficient at such, until the chop picks up enough, to get stuffed under the V sections and pound on the flattening midship sections.
CANADA Flat bottom questions Is a Flat Iron skiff better in rough conditions because it is more prone to keeping its bow in contact with the water, or is a flat bottom with some rocker forward (pacific city dory) the better performer?
Typically the box portion (the V part hanging down) ends in a point, rather then being cut flush with the transom as you have.
This will substantially increase the amount of displacement and drag your drive assembly will have to overcome. The extreme amount of deadrise in the box will not offer much lift, so you'll be relying on the flats. This in turn lowers the boatis center of gravity for greater stability, and allows lowering the main deck structure to provide greater interior headroom while preserving the boatis attractive exterior profile. This nuance also extends the waterline to improve fuel efficiency, and allows fuller sections throughout the forward hull sections for greater useable interior space.

I suspect that as the speed increases with the Cutwater, so to would the consumprion as a reult of the increased drag from all those 'interuptions'. This hull form is usually limited to protected waters craft, though the old, down east lobster boat hull styles, could be considered a double wedge hull and were often taken well past the protection of sheltered water.
Also, is the pointy bow style of flat bottom skiff more succeptable to chine trip than its jon boat cousins? There are a few plane mode box keel designs, but most are limited in top speed before they begin to have bad manners. This can be accommodated by using a fine, sharp entry wedge and moving considerable displacement aft, but it will still pound, just not as quick. This provides a fine entry, self leveling properties (typical of V's) can knock down chop and flat plane areas aft. The wide chine flats will probably still receive some pounding in a healthy chop, but the box will help knock some of it down. Shaping the chines to do this isn't a walk in the park for the most skilled among us, let alone the novice. The flat areas aft, provide the plane surface, the forward V sections lift, fine entry and stabilization. I know that in worst case scenareo, that hull charastic (water rushing to the transom while at rest ) is a major cause for small boat capsizing.
It is made of SST and has a cutout for the engine, it projects out 11" from the transom and the corners are hooked down for lift.
Together, these refinements enable the Cutwater hull to deliver an ultra-smooth ride and superior performance, plus an extra measure of comfort and convenience, adding up to unexcelled cruising enjoyment. We all would love to hear about it.Lastly, hopefully some of our readers will share and post comments about their houseboat hull choices and experiences.
They were often used in displacement mode in green water and only kept at pace with the sea, which is always a wise course if you have to make a living doing such daily. These shapes are generally used in protected waters, as they haven't enough deadrise aft to maintain comfort, at plane speeds in rough conditions.
The aft sections could be made flatter, like a skiff, but she'd then be less efficent at displacement speeds. The lifting strake gives additional lift to the transom and is 'tuned' to augments the lifting capacity of the trim of the lower unit. I use a 2,000gph pump in the belly to protect the nights at anchor, and i use a self-priming water puppy mounted on the transom to pull the water out when i am taking shots of water while under way--works great! Go ahead click the book and sign-up, it's free and filled with great articles, tips, information and website updates.

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Comments to “Boat hull design for stability”

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