I make had a few emails regarding the plans I drew upward of the small Dumas V soh I thought some of you might want to try out this small 18 We convey equipment for Remote Controlled Fast Electric manikin. There are lots of things to consider when you decide to buy an Rc boat for the first The similitude hull design makes it both faster and so type A deep vee with the added. Location: Venezuela boat hull design (pad design) Hello, my name is Cristian,this is my firth time here, and i would like to know somebody hellp me. I have a powerboa 16? vee fiverglass 22? 140hp looper, and i like to put in it a pad but i don?t know the dimensions (size), and how it comport in the boat, i have very much time driving boat, but never with pad, and i need the pad for more speed and woul like to know about the size of a box of water that the people do for blow off in final of transon and bow. I'm not familiar with the calculations for retrofitting an existing hull with a pad; most boats I see with one have it built in from the start.
Location: Venezuela thanks matt, bu i like to know what is small size in inchs.
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I thought I would offer up a 22ft hull for anyone who wants it (see attached picture, Rhino and ACAD files). I would appreciate if someone with experience of this size and type of design would comment on it. It is not my skill but rather that Rhino (that I used for this hull) is really good at making developable surfaces.
Location: LA Developable surfaces Houndie check your version of Rhino, they had a bug un-rolling surfaces until release 3, SR3c. Location: LA 22 dev hull Jeff, I did a quick loft and un-rolled your bottom plate, see if your version of Rhino reads the attached file.
The increase in size when you develop a surface should not be a problem but I am no expert on this. I less suspect the accuracy of the computer expanded plates as much as the nature of hand building hulls without stiff jigs. Location: New Jersy Where can I find some hull photographs or manufacturers that make very good hull designs ?
Assuming a boat about 20' & V8 The attached perspective drawing shows you what I did on the Cherubini 20 bottom for the jet drive.
I have used a similar bottom for the Saetta 20, which originally had an inboard drive, and I have just reshaped the hull for a jet drive using a Hamilton jet. Boat should not bow hook or become airborne unless I am stupid or showing off like a nut in a 21' X 4' boat.
From the perspective view and the side (below) it looks like you have effectively taken a chunk out of the bottom to produce a flat for the jet intake. When we built the hull molds for this design, the hull plug was carved out of foam at DLBA Robotics in Virginia, and it had the full V, not cut away. Location: New Zealand Had you considered the merits of running the flat area (which we refer to as the 'delta', not sure of the origins but it could be due to the triangular shape) from the transom to just forrard of amidships?
Yes, in fact, I did go through a rendition of the hull lines with a flat on the bottom exactly as Mat-C describes, not inclined like Speedboat's photo, and got all the way through general arrangement drawings. If I had to do it over again to provide a jet design in a speedboat, I would do it the same way with the bottom shape that I have developed, which I have used on a number of boat designs--the boats trim out and handle very well. Location: Reedville, VA Morning Geltlemen, Not sure if we are still talking about the original post, but here's a beautiful hull - the lines came from a 1952 Alvin Beal designed boat. If she's kept simple (light) you could expect 14 knots with about 120 HP at the prop and 12 knots with 73 HP. Location: Scotland S70 Project (Give your ideas) This is what I have so far for my teams strathclyde 70 class hull. Location: Scotland Rig Design Heres a quick collage i made in photoshop. S70 Alex, I can't open your pdf file on the rules since I have webtv so I can't comment on how well your boat may fit those rules. 2) google Lester Gilberts technical site-primarily on IOM's but full of usefull design information for RC model Yachts.
Location: Maine Alex, the first drawing you posted seems to have a lot of things cluttering up airflow in the rig. Personally, i would suggest looking into a sloop rig with a large roach mainsail and moderate roach jib. Location: Scotland Yes ive looked at that thread before but it takes some reading and for some of us lesser educated people it is quite tough going.
Also on the subject of hulls would there be any point in making the hull in the shape of a symetrical airfoil.


Boston Previous Member   which is why I posted lines of the Downeast hull form, so folks could get a clear image of the type of hull commonly associated with a lobster boat. If your using a hull form of a traditional lobster boat people just might refer to is as such, specially if the top sides and sheer also resemble the layout.
Location: Flattop Islands Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. From Massachusetts to Nova Scotia there are hundreds of versions of Downeast Lobster Boat hulls, some good , some bad, some indifferent. Understand that these boats are built to make money, everything else is just gravy, if they don't make money they are put out to pasture. Originally Posted by Tad Once again Boston you have posted a question that could be addressed by writing 3-4 books. A stretched version of White Pine will produce a very easily driven hull, if the weight is kept in check.
I would imagine that often the boats are loaded down with pots only a few times a year, at least the inshore boats, the pots spending most of the time in the water. I?m in the process of setting myself up for retirement and part of the plan is to upgrade my boat. I would like to be able to go across to Tasmania (120 - 450 nm depending on landfall chosen) or coastal hop up to the Great Barrier Reef and on to Darwin (longest leg I'd do around 450 nm). I do like the looks of White Pine but think it may be a little slow (her max is listed as 15 knots and I'd like to have some in reserve). The production boats available in Australia do not ?tick all my boxes? so I am seriously looking at building here (importing is not very attractive at current exchange rates) and we have 3-4 competent wooden boat builders where I live so this seems like my best option. I got some feed back on onother forum that the down east hull is stable to a degree but in heavier seas its stability drops off fast.
I like the way the beam narrows toward the stern and I also like the ?raised? floor and kitchen up in the main cabin area. The head could be a fraction bigger so the ?shower? has a bit more room (I?d use this for hanging wet gear as well). Finally, last night I became aware of some select grade Alaskan Yellow Cedar planks (6? x 1? & 10? x 1?) that are available in near me, so I am thinking that this would be a good timber for planking the boat as I?m told it is light, strong and easy to work. She has a round bilge clinker planked marine plywood hull with an open wheelhouse and a lower cabin with moderate flare forward and good size cockpit deck, strongly raked stem, transom stern and hinged timber slatted marlin platform.
There is a very long way between these educated guesses and the real life finished boat, but the expectations are roughly in the range of possible.
The largest single weight in this boat will be the fuel load, so that capacity needs to be considered carefully. Location: Flattop Islands I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. A 60' hull that displaces 53,400 pounds will require 44 Hp at the prop for 9 knots in flat water, no bearing looses, alternator drag, no current, wind, waves, no bottom growth, no appendages, etc.
Originally Posted by Tad I'm also very jealous of the Yanmar engines available in Australia. Click on the thumbnails to download the disembarrass plans to body-build a seventy-two inch rc boat hull designs. It is simple and rather straight, 16deg deadrise, outboard hull with developable surfaces (plywood or alu). I made an effort to use low degree curves to create the surfaces thereby it is easier to keep them fair. Also, you cannot fair control points on the surface membrane stretched between two curves without making it non-developable. Saying its a cone is a little simplistic, see the graphic where I projected the side shell past the chine and sheer of my deeper vee hull.
The deviation should be absorbed by most manufacturing process tolerance, I would guess even if you used a CNC machine. The bow waterlines could be slimmed by moving the forefoot aft or a more gradual turn up from the keel.
Such assembly precludes the attainment of the tolerance of the NC cut parts during field assembly. Minimum bottom angle ~10 deg helps in keeping intake free from bubbles generated at spray-root forward. Jetsprint boats run a transom deadrise angle up around 24*, I've used 19* extremely successfully with a warped bottom. The same gusset blocks will be used on both sides of anything holding the marine plywood skins on.


The flat area forrard becomes quite narrow so as to minimise the effect of 'slamming' etc that you suggest.
I suppose I always assumed it would be done as a horizontal version of what speedboats has pictured, as in the pic below. The Draco Volans by Sam Devlin is under construction & it's new owner Ed Schulman, has very determined views about it. Sorry if in the questionnaire you'll find some italian words, it's a limit of Google tool I've used to prepare the poll.
We will probably make a second boat with the same hull but with single rudder and bermuda rig to test again. I wanted to try and get any sails behind the mast away from it so they get less turbulent air. No way they would be so popular among the fishermen if they were not well suited to it; not just the bay, but the open New England waters as well. I have recently joined the Royal Victorian Motor Yacht Club and this has given me the opportunity to look at a wide variety of boats and narrow down what I would like?.. I have looked at a locally built boat, a Cheviot 32, and it is lovely but just a bit to small for me, plus access to the bow is more difficult than I would like. Do you have any suggestions on how this design could be ?improved? to achieve (or exceed) these sort of targets while still meeting what I am after? The lower cabin has a kitchenette, a separate toilet with wash basin and two bench seats that have been set up to convert to a basic double berth. According to the design of the hull gas constant coke boats whitethorn be classified in two main types single-channel are those hulls which can surface offers type A continuous wet surface.
Boats Trucks Cars and Planes including It has been over 10 years sinc rc boat hull designs.
Also the surfaces are of degree 1x4 (using 2x5 control points) which is key to make them easily developable. The expanding plate question is a good one, I have done a lot of large aluminum hulls and do not provide shell plate geometry. I would have though it would create a bit of turbulence in front of the jet, as well as a possible area of 'negative pressure'. Although it does rotate the jet giving a 'trim up' effect, depending on the pump you use they have a 5* down angle on them anyway (to allow sump clearance for the motor to the bottom of the hull.
That would give a flat 'pad' for the boat to ride on - quite common in many faster boats I believe - but avoid any potential turbulence problems. Most were outboards, though some were also fitted with sterndrives and I think even a few jets. Down East hull form & Lake Union Dreamboat derived looks to suit the North West cruising conditions.
Brant rock ( well off the south shore ) has got so many buoys floating around it you could walk across em and its out in the middle of nowhere, definitely not protected water and we fixed plenty of boats that worked there. Plan1 Offshore Large Scale RC Boat plans 72inch kissing disease Hull Plans RC Monohull Plans.
The best way to process a developable plate hull is to fair the sheer, and chine (or chine to keel), loft a surface between the two and leave it alone. When I did this edge extension to yours it twisted which is ok as long as those lay lines don't twist or intersect within the section of the plate you are trying to un-roll. While this may not be accurate it is in such common use in the industry that fighting it is a steep uphill battle. It would suit Southern England conditions as well as Summer has turned out colder & rainer than the Met Office forecast. Also would it be better to have the servo attatched directly to the mast in a wing sail design. I have seen many designers try to get flair into the bow of a developable hull since they appear to bow out.
Its just due to the bow shape being a portion of a cone, which is single curvature and the only surface it will accept to create flat patterns. I would like to hear others opinions about how much luck they have had with building from a computer shell expansion.



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