Firefish has a goal of building heavy duty shallow water jet boats with aggressive styling. I am looking for information with regards to the design, and detail drawings, In AutoCAD format, either .dwg or.
For 16 to 22 foot aluminium boat design, similar to boston whaler designs, centre console type layout.
I am conversant with autuCAD, and have TIG welding experience, but am looking for designs with cutting schedules that could be profled by CNC machines to allow for ease of assembly. There are several designers in Australia that offer plans or plasma cut kits for small vessels. Phil Curran of CDM Marine and Gavin Mair are two of the top alloy designers here on the west coast and they have websites. I have a 28 foot trailerable boat in alloy suitable for experienced builders but it is not a kit boat. I have the original design for the prototype available but I am reworking the underwater lines for a stern drive leg (there needs to be more displacement aft for the change of LCB), which also affects the performance potential for the boat. The second generation hull will have a 120 hp diesel stern drive (although a four stroke outboard is possible) and will have a top speed of 20 to 22 kts and a cruise of 18 to 20. After I have built the prototype I will use the corrected sections to put together a plasma cut kit.
Location: Western Australia Alloy plate for hull Yes, I can see it would be tempting to use surplus plate to build a hull, and if it is a marine grade alloy (5000 series) it may save you some dollars up front.
Overall, I think the hassle factor of building in tread plate would result in an inferior boat.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form. Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available.
Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states.
Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate.
For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place.
Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit. Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two? Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc.
Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy? I have a seaking 12 ft aluminum rowboat that has had the lining on top of the transom brake. I had a real struggle recently in trying to repair a gash in the keel of an aluminum boat and also leaking rivets. Most aluminum bass boats have cramped casting decks, small storage compartments and sluggish performance.
Aluminum boat building plans are easily the plan of choice if you want to build a boat that's built to last.
Welcome To Spira International Home Built Wooden and Aluminum Boat Plans be experiencing the fun and satisfaction of building your own boat. Originally Posted by Brent Swain I have used peening to curve heavier longitudinal flatbars in my last boat. I don' t believe that your outdated framed methods can put together a 36 foot hull in three days. When you cut out six square plates and join them together corner to corner, then the final shape is a foregone conclusion.
The rest of us should not base our choices of boat building methods on any one individual's inability to comprehend basic geometric facts. One common criticism of education systems around the worlld is that they cater to the lowest common denominator, and the slowest learner in the classroom sets the pace for the rest. You remind me of the livery stable owners of days gone by , saying " Forget that new fangled horseless carriage. I don't like to post such criticisms, but your short sightedness of only wanting to do something one way shows little creativity. I have often wonderd about stringers and stiffners inside the hull, it's a problem blasting and painting under the edge attached to hull, even pre blast and paint before assy.
At the flloors reieve the plate between welds, that is if you have a 4x 3 x 4 your notch out where there is no weld and weld right around, so there is a seal.
This I apply with a paintbrush straight out of the tin (hardener added) and work it into all spaces and voids and corners very thickly and only then spray the primer coat on. Location: British Columbia With Cad cut plates you could put together a 36 foot hull easily in a day.
I once watched a boatyard forman in Auckland plate his round bilged 36 footsailing hull by using the shrinkage of the edges of torch burned plate for his compound curves, The only plate he had to roll was the turn of the bilges. Having built boats out of Corten , he also said corten was a waste of money and grossly overated.
On stringers and frames touching the plating, I have never seen much of a problem with this providing the mill scale was removed prior, and that it is painted as Wynand does well saturated with a brush.
Also often lacking are reasonable limber holes that can be added quite freely as they are usually on or close to the nuetral axis of a bar stiffener.
Location: Ottawa I posted a question somewhat related to this topic but off topic enough to have its own thread. About protection under stringers and frames, as the painting of the interior of my hull is coming up soon I have been thinking about it and came up with an idea different from what I have seen done.
I will then proceed to the final sandblast and to the application of the proper epoxy primer. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Don't ever expect me to let your childish comments go unchallenged . Unless, of course, those welds are what keeps the water out of your boat and your boat together, in which case, there is a value for many in ensuring that the finished product is as high in quality as can be achieved. When I jack the stern up to put the skeg on , the foreward centreline is horizontal , a good time to 7024 weld it, before jacking the bow up to put the keel on. AC with 6011 is far better than DC for fitting , as it is far less prone to sticking when you are in an awkward position. They all pass survey with flying colours , and several have been built under the watchful eye of well respected surveyors. The coast guard have admired and praised my boats, calling one the best built boat they had ever seen. Location: Vancouver I have found that, if using pre-primed, wheel abraded steel, spraying the heat affected zone with weld-through red oxide primer, after each day's work, is sufficient in preventing oxidation. Location: British Columbia welding a steel hull I've never seen any problems below where the stringers come up against the hull plate in the 32 years I've been building steel boats. On several of the boats I've pulled together ,I farmed out the cutting and welding on of stringers and bulwark caps , so only had to put less than 40 hours of my time in to get the hull, decks cabin wheelhouse , cockpit,keel , rudder and skeg installed .
Between the summer of 83 and summer of 84 I built Silver Moon, then Pearl Song , then Bruce Atkeys 31 footer, then Ainsley Tripp's 36 footer , then my own 31 , then Uller and Moon Raven.

I agree, there is no way I could have possibly built that many fully framed shells using your methods, in that much time.
Anyone who insists on frames can quickly pull together an origami hull and easly install whatever frames he feels comfortable with, saving the huge amount of time Lazy Jack refers to.
Try that with your imitation wooden building methods.I'm not using your super slow building techniques. Many of my clients have a huge amount of offshore cruising experience and wouldn't consider building a boat any other way. Be skeptical of anyone who tries to tell you that the only possible way to do anything is by the most labour intensive and complex way possible. If dragging a rod across a piece of steel changed it in any way, it would quickly and obviously show up when you bend the plate. All of our boats are custom manufactured with the highest quality standards in mind rather than quantity. These normally cost a couple of thousand Australian dollars more than you could buy the alloy plate for, but they are often well researched and designed kits. The current vessel has a 70 hp inboard diesel and has a top speed of arounf 15 knots with a cruise of 20 to 14 kts.
I have not built the second generation hull yet, so I have only the developed frame sections, which do not always match the shape you get in the real world. If you are in this part of Australia you can come and look at the prototype, which has been in the water for 12 months. Some of the 5000 series alloys are not as stiff as 5083, which is what is normally used for hull construction, and you would need to allow for that. The cost of the hull materials is a very small part of the overall price of any boat and any compromise you make in construction can seriously affect the value of the boat.
I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat.
The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits.
You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million. A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee.
These boats are usually in the twelve to twenty foot range, consisting of jon boats, aluminum skiffs, fishing boats and canoes.
Use GFlex-650 Epoxy see Jamestown or YouTube video for application on aluminum boat rivets versus the above mentioned repairs. I tried using the brazing rods you see demonstrated on youtube with very little success, but Cabela's Aluminum Boat Patch worked very well on the leaking rivets. Is there some product that I can paint on the bottom of my fishing boat (14') that will seal it up and hold up fairly well? Every year many a hobbyist or do-it-yourselfer builds the majority of home-built boat plans to be found are for boats made of plywood.
Thankfully, There Are Helpful Aluminum Boat Plans Designed for People Who Want More Step by Step Instructions. It expands the edges , making it go the opposite way you want it to when you pull it around a curve. I was welding on rusty scrap with mill scale, big fan and cooler running didnt seem to have any affect on it. I suggest a way to modify the bends in a flatbar, and the lack of need for plate edges to be peened in certain types of boatbuilding , and you instantly turn it into an attack on origami boatbuilding. We haven't had any problem with angle stringers because we have been ordering it al wheelabraded and primed with cold galv primer. All my plate and frames have been sandblasted and primed on the interior prior to assembling. It could cost someone their cruising dreams, as your labour intensive, expensive and complex building methods have so often done .
I suppose if one weren?t concerned with carbon inclusion or surface hardening, and a risk of resultant weld defects, or one?s job, or the nightmare that one is leaving for the fitting & welding, one could live with such poor steelworking practices. Several 36 footers have sold for over $100,000 , and even roughly finished ones sell for around $65,000, still many times what their owners had in them. A smaller diameter wire would probably be prefered for welding the thinner gauge materials.
Most internal rusting is attributed to debris collecting and blocking moisture from it's path to the bilge. Working with people who have a plasma cutter and torch ,and who know a bit about using them ,I have done shells in 6 days , hull decks , keels, cabin, cockpit, wheelhouse, rudder and skeg. However , once the hull and decks are together , the redundancy of transverse framing becomes self evident to all but the dullest.
One veteran of a circumnavigation, a circle pacific trip ( BC Hawaii, japan , the Aleutians and home) and a single season passage thru the NW passage in one of my designs , is on his third origami Brentboat. Our staff have over 25 years of combined experience in aluminum and jet boat manufacturing and we personally test all of our boats to the limit to ensure they meet our criteria for ruggedness and utility. They are normally complete with all alloy needed and can include alloy windows pre-made if required. I will do a plasma cutting schedule for the prototype but the frame sections will have a trimming allowance. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though. I then applied 3 coats of fiber glas resin on both the outside and inside of the bottom of the boat. While I was able to cover the gash with th brazing material it wasn't water tight and still leaked. This is the first aluminum bass boat to combine all the fishability and performance of a fiberglass tournament boat with a rugged aluminum hull.The new 176 Magnum is 17 feet long with an 85-inch beam.
My comments on peening were to try to lessen the burden for those who are stuck in the past.
Why couldnt the edge be ground or milled to a V or small radious before welding in then blasting would get close to 100% under and painting would be easy enough to get all of it ?
By applying it along frames before the final blast the runny primer will get where other paint wouldn't go and will not get blasted off, and where some will be blasted of I rather have the bar rust 235 applied. While these steels have a value, I don't know if that value can be seen in small boat building. Still, as has been aptly covered by one and all, there is no panacea, fluxcored or solid wire, or stick will do the job. I never fully welded my bulwark cap on the outside 24 years ago and can't see a drop of rust there despite many Pacific crossings.
I feel great sense of accomplishment having helped them get off the treadmill and out cruising quickly and affordably in some of the safest boats out there, a sense of accomplishment that lasts long after the money I earned has been spent.
You can hide a single chine below the waterline, but not the upper chine in a multichine hull. Our boats can be seen in action each year on our Research and Development expedition to Northern B.C. Should I just hammer down the broken piece and rivet it, or do I need to replace the whole piece?
On our first fishing trip we developed 2 small leaks around 2 rivets so I drilled them out and installed 2 stainless steel screws with a neoprene washer and some Atwood Marine Sealant, we have now fished for over 6 hours in some very rough water conditions with no further leaks, yea. For building outdoors doing a smaller boat single chine or origami dont know if it would be worth it or not but doing larger with lots of welding it would be top of the list. But wait, it also means that Brent has taken only a month to build each boat, and that is simply amazing.
The hull between the sheer and the waterline on most classic round bilge boats has very little round or flare in it.Thus single chine boats look alot more like round bilged boats in the water than multichine boats.

Because of the shrinkage rate of alloy during welding, anything that can be bent rather than welded should be taken advantage of.
At the end of World War II large amount of surplus aluminum and aluminum forming equipment became available as war surplus. I'm going to now apply some Rustoleum Road Warrior Truck bedliner over the bottom on the inside of the boat for added protection. Conversely, it means that Brent has had a month of involvement in the construction of each of these boats.
It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity. Several manufacturers started making various designs of boats from this surplus material.Huge hydraulic stretchers used to form curved aircraft skins were now churning out parts for boats. It rates for outboards up to 125 hp and has a 25-gallon built-in fuel tank for superior range capability.If other aluminum bass boats cramp your fishing style, you’ll be in for a pleasant surprise when you step into the 176 Magnum.
If I can say that I have repaired or built every ship, boat or barge that I have worked on for a period of one month or more, Then I should be able to tell people that I've built over 100(arbitrary figure) marine vessels. I wonder how my co-workers, contractors and employers would feel about me taking credit for the whole job. Casting decks are massive fore and aft, and dry storage is unprecedented in its size class. Two giant rod boxes have oversized openings for easy access to your favorite sticks, and carpeted floors and lids to protect your gear and reduce noise. There’s a large dry storage module up front designed to accept Plano 3700 tackleboxes, and two additional tackle modules in the rear deck.Triton’s exclusive “floating console,” made famous in their fiberglass tournament boats, is a standout feature of the new 176 Magnum. This provided aluminum boats a bad reputation for years.One manufacturer in particular avoided this problem, Grumman Aircraft. The side pillar has been eliminated so you won’t bump your knee when getting behind the wheel. They had a tremendous amount of experience in providing flying boats and other naval aircraft used in saltwater environments. The sleek molded console features a tournament dash layout and unlimited legroom.Put the hammer down and you’ll experience a level of performance previously unobtainable in an aluminum bass boat. The 176 literally leaps out of the hole, then, just like a high-performance fiberglass boat, lifts beautifully onto a running pad for breathtaking speed and enhanced fuel economy. Grumman Canoes are still being made today, although by a different company, and parts are readily available.As companies developed an understanding of the proper alloys to use, aluminum boats became more dependable and desirable. Performance is enhanced by Triton’s set-back transom, which eliminates the need for a jack plate. Aluminum, of the proper alloy, forms a tight oxide coating that protects the aluminum beneath from further corrosion. It’s rated for a 125 hp outboard, but delivers outstanding performance and operating economy with engines as small as 90 horses. Aluminum is also tough, denting and deforming where wood would crack and fiberglass would shatter. And the deep vee hull design means a smooth, dry ride in rough water, without the slapping and pounding typical of many aluminum hulls.The 176 Magnum, like all Triton aluminum boats, features rugged all-welded construction. Look around any marina and see how much abuse the average aluminum workboat handles.Today, a wide range of aluminum boats is available. It’s crafted from premium .100-gauge aluminum and features a unique center extrusion that locks both sides of the hull together from bow to stern for the ultimate in structural integrity. Canoes, flat bottomed and v-bottomed fishing boats as well as small powerboats can be found at almost any marine dealer. Most competing brands of aluminum bass boats use wood in strategic areas such as the transom, decks and floor; wood can rot, leading to costly structural failures. But every Triton boat, aluminum and fiberglass, features 100% wood-free construction for superior strength, enhanced durability and a lifetime of trouble-free service.Like Triton’s legendary fiberglass bass boats, the 176 Magnum comes fully-equipped for tournament fishing. It features a deluxe bow panel with 24-volt trolling motor wiring, a MotorGuide 756 foot control positioning motor, Lowrance X29 graph, two pedestal fishing chairs with locking hinges, passenger rod ramp, deluxe bench seat with storage beneath, insulated step-up cooler, divided tournament livewell, rod hold-down straps and more. It comes with a drive-on trailer with double welded bunks, swivel jack stand, spare tire holder and recessed lighting.The new 176 Magnum is built by skilled craftsmen at Triton’s state-of-the-art aluminum boat manufacturing facility in Aberdeen, Miss. For additional information on this and other Triton aluminum and fiberglass boats, contact Triton Boats. I’ve seen all kinds of suggestions for using silicone sealer, 3M5200 or JB Weld to seal the loose rivet. You can also try to tighten up the rivet by hammering while using a metal bar to back up the rivet. However, the rivet is already work-hardened from the first time it was bucked and you won’t have much success with this process. This is especially effective when replacing a rivet that is attaching an internal part to the hull skin.
You could replace all the rivets in a boat and have it stronger than before.However, you will need to deal with the fact that the aluminum hull will corrode around the stainless steel fasteners. The washers are available in the specialty hardware section of most home improvement stores. Drill the hole slightly oversize and use a little 3M5200 when installing.If the hole doesn’t involve any structural component, you may be able to seal it with an aluminum pop rivet.
Be sure you get the closed end type, as a standard aluminum pop rivet has a mild steel mandrel in the center and an open end. Use a little 3M5200 sealant when placing the rivet for a better seal.A puncture will usually have the edges of the hole curled slightly inward. You can then use the stainless steel fasteners and nylon washers or pop rivets as noted above.Holes can also be caused by localized corrosion. This can be caused by an imperfection in the metal, by leaving a washer or coin laying on the aluminum or even a spill of battery acid. If the hole is too big to use the fastener technique outlined above you will then have to treat the hole like a gash, which we’ll talk about now.GashesHit a rock when beaching your boat, hit the corner of your trailer or run over the fluke of your anchor and you may gash the hull of your aluminum boat. Fiberglas and epoxy, Bondo, JB Weld and plain 3M5200 have all been tried and eventually failed.The surest way to repair a gash is to rivet or bolt a patch over the gash from the outside. The patch has to be made from aluminum sheet about the same thickness as the hull or a little thicker. Clean the surface of the hull and coat it with a thin layer of 3M5200 before bolting the patch in place.CracksIf the aluminum flexes enough it may crack. If you have access to a welder who completely understands welding aluminum boats, you may be successful in having the crack welded (after making sure there is nothing on the other side of the weld location to catch fire). It takes the right technique, the right welding rod and the right equipment to properly repair such a crack.Simply welding the crack may not solve the problem, though. If the hull or structural member is flexing or working, the aluminum may crack again, this time on either or both sides of the weld.
You might be better off bolting on a patch and adding an additional plate from the inside as a backup.Welding is not recommended for repairing loose rivets.
A rivet is used for structural attachments and welding up the rivet will probably not produce a good structural joint. Better to bolt a loose rivet.ConclusionsDon’t take any of this as an indictment against aluminum boats. Properly designed and built aluminum boats withstand an incredible amount of abuse and neglect.

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