Location: Singapore Came across this thread again by chance, for new members, take a look it's a great story. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. This construction sequence starts with building the ladder frame, on which we will set up the molds, transom, and stem. Since this will be a lapstrake boat, we'll build it over molds and put the frames in after the boat is planked and right side up. After we installed the skegs and sternposts, we coated the bottoms with a mixture of epoxy resin and graphite powder. After we rolled the boats over, we installed frames, a center seat with flotation, a stern deck, two circular blocks to support pedestal seats, and finished the gun'l. The boats will be oiled with Cetol on the interior and painted Forest Green on the exterior.
We are located on the Snohomish River in the Pacific Northwest, about 20 miles north of Seattle.
Location: Canada Locking Oar locks set up (row) I once rowed a boat with locked Oar locks.
Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa locked oars If you are thinking of an oar with a pin through the horns of the oarlock and through the oar, then, I've got a little imput. Location: USA Round, captured oarlocks that can't fall off the oar also keep the oar from jumping out. Here's a gig with locks that have a higher forward arm to keep the oar in, and a thole on a racing pulling boat.


Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa oar locks I'd try shifting the locks to the outside edge of the gunnels. Cruising in backwaters in BC I saw lots of round sided dories rowed with single tholes and a grommet, and often facing forward and pushing while sitting on a 2x4 on the gunwales. On movie boats for we had double tholes that were poorly designed and I replaced many, but they work great for rowing, just a single thole is better. It appears to me that the gaps in the coremat must be weak points and in fact could it mean the whole hull is weak?
Location: Monroe WA You're correct, coremat does a few things, but doesn't really add to the strength of the laminate. Location: Cancun Mexico Coremat is a good material for fastly building up thickness in a laminate. Don't worry your problem is easy to fix and the strength won't be harmed as is only a problem with a core. Since this is a small boat, we built the ladder frame on legs above a ladder frame for a larger boat. As a kid, my 12' boat had pinned oars and they ground the flesh right off my hands and made rowing a pure misery.
What I was saying about the locks is if you install them with the axis of the pin (there's a fork on top and a pin on bottom that goes in socket) tilted aft from vertical several degrees the angle is favorable to keep the oar in the lock. Set them so that the bottom of the lock is high enough above the gunnel so there's no interference between the gunnel and oar shaft. Here we have the molds and stem clamped or screwed to the ladder frame, and the bottom plank installed on the setup.


This specialized epoxy coating will make a very slick, durable, and rather scratchproof surface for skidding the boats up and down the beach.
This one will mount properly on the stern and be remote controlled by the pilot sitting in his swivel chair.
We were in a big rush to get these boats on the truck for delivery and weren't able to get finished photos. Oars that rotate in the locks can be feathered ( great rowing into the wind) and you can try the dory stroke which is quite efficient. I find that they should be at a 90 degree angle to the water or to a straight edge across the beam of your boat when viewed from the bow. Notice that the grain and scarfs in the bottom planks run athwartships, meaning at 90° to the length of the boat.
I also agree with Bataan that the lock should be tilted aft a bit to help keep your oars in the locks. We did that to make the bottom stiff enough to walk around on even though it will have no bottom frames. More and more rowers here in Southern New England are using collegiate style oars with a sleeve that has a flat on it to position the blade for the catch and stroke.
If you want round locks, rework your oars to remove the square section and then drill out the grip and fill it with lead.



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Comments to “Building up a boat transom gate”

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