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The transom in this particular vessel is extremely thick (no one knows why) and special extension studs were made to bolt the leg in place. It was this last thin outer layer that was worn and allowed the ingress of water, not the exhaust cut outs as first thought. The seacast method of repair was considered but dismissed after reviewing comments on this forum especially those of member PAR from florida. New plan now is to use 50mm structural plywood with an additional glass ply glass sandwich to bring transom up to the required 65-70mm thickness.
Have good fibreglass repair experience, so any polyesther glassing proceedure is not a problem, limited experience with Epoxy. Location: canton oh Tja Jayslade, If you are going to use Nida core make sure that the glass on the outside of the transom is at least quarter in. Location: north Markham I will NEVER EVER, EVER put wood in a boat below the water line again EVER,EVER.
Location: India Hello This is nikhil i would like to know that from where i can got liner digram for making a GooD Boat .
Location: Eustis, FL The transom on these boats had to withstand tremendous loads and even though they had big support knees, they had delamination issues. I also agree the XL panels are very nice, but I've used non-pressure treated materials too.
I use epoxy for this type of repair, though reasonable results (as good as the manufacture) can be had with polyester. Location: Sydney Thanks Gentlemen for all the good advice, PAR I have specifically followed your diverse range of advice, on this forum, since viewing a response to a seacast post by FOCA a while back. As the original transom has not been removed, I will note the grain orientation of each specific layer and advise accordingly, would again appreciate your advice on the orientation of the specific layers.
Once the desired new sandwich constructed transom is achieved say 6mm lower than original, glassing the outer skin to the new transom fairing into the original 2" band left from the old transom. Cut out all required apertures oversize ie outdrive including bolts, exhausts etc by about 10mm and glass the edges to the required inner diameter. Location: Eustis, FL I agree Jim, that these are engineered structures, but in the case of long narrow very fast powerboats of this configuration, the only athwartship structural member, aft of midship, is the flange of the deck cap, some minimalist cockpit furniture and the major member of course the transom. Some manufactures are moving towards core structures, partly from maintenance issues, but mostly to increase the performance with a lighter structure of adequate substance.
A boat's structural integrity is the sum of it's maintenance, which few folks understand any more, let alone perform. CIG29, if you'd like drop me an email (click on my name) and we can go over the laminate schedule options, but you're on the right track, so keep grinding away. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I just started reading your forums here and they look great, there seems to be a wealth of good information along with many knowledgeable people. We have purchased a 1963 Pacemaker, We started out by pulling a couple of boards of the transom that were questionable at best. We are now at the point were the whole transom has been removed and a new frame is built out of pressure treated lumber. Some people have told me to just coat all the wood in West Systems Resin, without adding any hardner to it, give it ample time to dry and repeat the process until we have 3 good coats on all the wood then peice it back together with 5200 on all the screws to ensure that they also are sealed. Any information on this would be greatly appreciated as the winter is coming quick and I need to get this closed up before the weather moves in. Simply make the new transom as the old one was made, construction wise, but use two pack epoxy glue and then coat with epoxy resin (two pack) to provide superior waterproofing. Location: Milwaukee, WI The resin will never cure and you can't get it out of the wood. Originally Posted by Crankygeek01 Some people have told me to just coat all the wood in West Systems Resin, without adding any hardner to it, give it ample time to dry and repeat the process until we have 3 good coats on all the wood then peice it back together with 5200 on all the screws to ensure that they also are sealed. Epoxy a and b need to be mixed carefully or you will have an unreacted component trapped and weakening the composite.

Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada Just finished getting the last stringer in place. Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada Well, everything goes slower than expected right? A word of advice for other would-be fiberglassers, like me: Make sure and wet down the wood you are fiberglassing before laying the first layer - this will make sure the wood does not suck up resin needed for the fiberglass and it will help to 'stick' the thick fiberglass sheets to the wood before more resin is applied.
Location: Nanaimo, BC, Canada I mixed up some regular baking flour into the resin when I ran out of chopped strand.
Also, if I'm going to do two layers of fiberglass, should I wait for the first layer to completely cure before laying the second?
Also, if I'm going to do two layers of fiberglass, should I wait for the first layer to completely cure before laying the second? I'm not familiar with your particular resin and so can't speak to what colour it's supposed to be.
I live in a city where many people own boats, and have attempted to do what I am currently doing. I have been working in he shade of a tree and mountain, and temperatures have dropped as low as 10 degrees C in the evening. If anyone knows how to make a hatch from scratch and seal it from water using plywood, please let me know!
To start with a doubt that I?ll have to clarify either way, in the process of selecting the wood for the stingers at the sawmill, they proposed me several type of wood that are used here for boating or building marinas, are much stronger then tek (hard to drill !)and don?t have that oil thing that tek has (not good for the resin) and they don?t rot even if they are left in the mod for years.
Chopping out the old stuff: If you are going to replace everything anyway, then don't be shy with the grinder. An expert told me that removing rotten transom takes 3-4 hours, however it took me about 10 hours to completely remove.
Ehdrian, I was wondering which part of the existing deck I could save yesterday, after reading your post I decided that this weekend I’ll get reed of everything. Do you have step by step close pictures of how you attached the stringers to the hull and transom and covered them with fiber? Thank you both for your encouraging counseling and sorry for throwing at you so many questions.
That's where I found out about White Oak being the best wood for resistanct to rot, mould and Mildew. For those that own a boat, it's inevitable that boat repair will need to be done at some point.
Every boat repair you make insures you and your friends on board of a safe, joyful boat ride. 3 layers of 1810 glass across the full width of the transom and tabbed into the motor stringers. Imagine the stresses it is subjected to as the boat dances on is transom with several hundred HP blasting through. The price difference between polyester and epoxy isn't that much if you use one of the discount epoxies available. There's a huge difference in construction and material quality in marine panels, compared to land based products. I have determined, from your general experiences in this field and technical postings throughout this forum that any information or recommendations made will be adhered to. The racking loads imposed by the sea or landing on the contact patch (if your lucky) after a brief airborne jaunt from a wave, places surprising stresses in the aft structures of these boats. This will not rot, none of mine have, if the owners don't drill holes in the damn thing, which is the usual problem on transoms. There are differences with strength and wood bond, but it's marginal enough not to worry about it. I normally leave as big a flange on the hull as possible, 2" seems a touch on the small side. I like some of the new core materials but good old wood correctly applyied is the best way to go. Like any other project, the more you dig into it, the more that you find needs to be replaced.
At this point, I know we need to treat the wood so it is waterproof, but need a little advice on the best way to do this is. Make sure that the lazarette has ventilation when finished, this looks very much like a case of rot caused by damp conditions that have existed for many years. Salt water laying there causes evaporation, this increases the humidity, humidity is a feeder of fungi, and away we go again if you do not provide air flow.

So far I have been placing the layers on top of each other while the bottom layer is still gelling. Ehdrian: what do you suggest, would you do it again if you knew what you had to go through? I read in some posting that you are not supposed to remove all the stringer at once because that could deform the hull shape, is that true also for a small 23 feet boat?
If you keep up on regular boat repair and maintenance, then your boat should last a long time.
Without a boat repair being made when its truly needed, you will put everyone's safety at risk and damage your boats motor and possibly frame. Also a sleeve is a tube that the drive unit bolts go through that keep the core from being compresed.
Vinylester is a much better choice then polyester, but both will not rival the strength of epoxy (and why I use it on transoms).
I have reasonable experience in working with and repairing fibreglass, from the manufacture of automotive body kits to complete GT40 replicas, working in both poly and vinylesther.
A swim ladder is installed with mild steel lags, a sounder is screwed directly to the boat, and engine change forces new holes to be drilled which aren't bonded and the old ones often filled with bath tub caulk, etc. There would be far fewer transom issues on older boats if the manufactures would get off the polyester band wagon. I remove the outer skin because it saves time and on many boats, often the inner skin has to be cut up into many pieces (structures and equipment get in the way) to get at the wood, which makes my life more difficult. I use NIDA core in the transoms of some of the boats that i build but not at the hp or stress you are talking about in this thread.
I ordered the Balsamo (myroxilon balsamum) because was the only one they were able to cut the stingers in a single piece.
Updating your motor and other areas of your boat during an annual boat repair is another sure way to avoid any incidences from occurring. A sleeve used in a mounting boss would compress the core layer to a severe stress that you would have a failure in the skin. I had purchased 200 litres of vinylesther for this transom repair but if epoxy is recommended and an advantage, so be it, the last thing I would want to happen is a transom related problem at 100MPH.
These are the things that cause issues, not the wood, the lack of maintenance or proper repairs or equipment installations. Some are seeing the light, but many still don't care about anything, except selling as many boats as possible. Can’t find epoxies anywhere, only little syringes with a very little content and very expensive.
Your mind will than start slowly beginning to ease as all the repairs will be made and each outing you go on will become more and more comfortable, allowing you more mental freedom with your boat than you have ever had before. I have used pressure treated wood before, but it takes a long time to dry it out to the point of use for adhesion, and then sometimes it begins to warp if not pressured in place.
Additional structure would have prevented this, but also required much more power for the same performance envelope. Most of the boats that need a transom, have finishes that are shot anyway and I can talk them into a paint job too.
When it comes to boat repair, if you do have electrical problems, you have to clean them out. It is a good idea to build up the thickness of the ply, rather than using a big chunk in one shot.
The screw holes from former equipment, since removed, spent bedding, leaking sole, etc., permits water to enter the hull, drain aft and live against the inside bottom of the transom, where it eventually will get at the ply.
If you put a material that is stiff with one that is flexible, you will have delamination issues.
If it's encapsulated, then it will not matter much, but I've yet to see an encapsulated production job.
Some of you might 100% agree with this, but regular boat repair and maintenance does include proper cleanings. Check around and you will see that there are a large amount of boat manufacturers using Greenwood Products. I think I’ll follow your suggestion, plus all the recommendations that come with it and start this project!

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