BOSTON — Linn Creek resident Kellee Halverson-Lundquist ran in the Boston Marathon for the first time in her life on Monday, April 18, 2016. I never used nida, a friend of mine did his transom with sea cast and he is NOT happy with it. What I have seen is people do is attack the transom from the inside to get all the wood out then clean the inside skin. On the 204C you can get to the inner skin by cutting out the rear part of the liner and the corner caps.
This site is in no way sponsored by, affiliated with, or related to Grady-White Boats, Inc. The thought of removing the inner or sometimes outer fiberglass transom skin, and replacing the wood core got you on edge? Transom skins' were in solid shape except one motor bolt hole had pulled through on the inner skin. With the cap removed, this will allow an accurate measurement in the transom's thickness Using the formula on the Seacast website, figure how much material you will need. Each of the wood corner pieces are merely two pieces of plywood glassed together to obtain transom thickness, then cut to fit inside the corners. I just cut woven roving strips the width of the transoms thickness and just kept building it up with resin and the strips till it was level with the top of the inner and outer skins.
Any imperfections or shallow areas in the top cap, and in the outer skin, I filled with a mixture of bondo and chopped glass left over from the Seacast. First of all you have to remove ALL the plywood and i mean ALL the plywood between 2" of space and more than 3 feet down, it will take for ever and you will not be able to remove all the plywood(some people use chain saws for that). First, it is impossible to entirely remove all of the bad wood sandwiched between exterior and interior fiberglass.

Before applying any resin, I kept sanding and test fitting each piece until it fit fairly snug.
After this was dry, it was just a matter of re-drilling the holes for the transom rings, and motor.
At this point I removed what was left of the transom cap, and dug out the two upper corners.
Because of the depth of the transom, I used a brush attached to a long stick to apply resin inside the transom around the holes.
When I got the fit I wanted, I coated the inside of the transom corners with resin, then 'glassed a couple layers of cloth to the top and outside edge(edge that faces against the outer hull) of the wood pieces.
This allowed me to get to the bottom of the wood fillers in the corners and just above them. Already knowing where they are, and never disturbing the inner or outer skin, it was easy to re-drill in perfect alignment. When using the vacuum, large pieces will have a tendency to clog the vacuum hose, so it will be necessary to shut the vac down and clear the hose quite often. These areas just seemed to fall out cleanly as if they did'nt get tightly glassed in this area. I then covered the holes with 'glass cloth soaked in resin to cover the holes, then rolled the cloth out with a fiberglass roller attached to a long stick. BTW, by doing it from the inside you have to cut your stringers about a foot of the transom, this is the right time to check for rotted stringers too.Make sure you use marine plywood, not just exterior fir. Othe rstories stated that while curing, that extreme heat caused problems with existing fiberglass, and others spoke of air pockets created when product was poured into glass skins.
In my opinion, the 'glassing was the messiest and possibly the hardest part of this whole job.

I have no firsthand experience with these products, but I do know that this is a lot of work, irregardless of which method you choose to use for repair.
I remedied that by duct taping a length of 1" PVC to the hose to reach all the way to the bottom of the transom. After all the holes were glassed over, I needed to bring the transom skins back into shape. After this is all set and dried, it was time to remove the C-clamps, and start mixing the Seacast.
To me, a traditional marine type plywood completely encapsulated with epoxy coated fiberglass was the best, longest lasting method.
Check link posted by Richie to see my transom rebuild, and if I can offer you any advice, feel free to ask.
The inward distortion of the outer skin held them in place while I applied resin around them. NOTE: By filling these areas with wood, and making them large enough to extend just below the splashwell edge of the transom, I did not have to build a form to pour the Seacast high enough to fill these areas. If all of the glass is added(they give you a LOT),it will be too thick to flow out evenly once it's in the transom. At this point, I went ahead and made these pieces, but there was sanding and 'glassing to do inside the transom before installing them.

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Comments to “Cost to replace transom on aluminum boat”

  1. Dagestanec  writes:
    Just like the egg drop.
  2. AnGeL_BoY  writes:
    Help with the inches of snow and.