Location: Alaska 22' plywood landing craft Here are a few photos of my recently completed boat.
Location: Margate, NJ cor, that's an awesome boat for what you need it for. I've been flipping photos in the gallery as well and found some concept boats that could load from the bow or stern, just back up raise the motor (in a pod) and lower an aft ramp. Location: USA NW coast landing craft, usually aluminum, often have a completely open deck and the house on stilts over the after part of the vessel.
Hoping to stay below 28, as big as I could possible go would be 32' That would be a big project.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Originally Posted by rfleet1066 I just got the trapezoidal bridge beams finish welded and fitted to the hulls. Im not looking to compete with the US Navy or anything like that, I can work out the bouyancy and make it structural strong enough but it would be a simple design. Location: New Kent, VA USA I only have a few sketches and calculations, no real drawings or blueprints.
So, I have decided I need a barge to transport myself, wife, car and papers when I do my monthly delivery run. Easy to build, as it will just be two hulls, tapered bows with a slight deadrise flattening out about half way back.
The deck is also made of ply, but I'll probably have some aluminium stiffening running down the sides and where the wheels rest. The sides of the hulls will extend up to give me some (not sure of the terminology) freeboard, sides .. With that data, I'll then build the cabin - 10' long by 8' wide - leaving a narrow 250mm (10") walkway around the sides.
I was planning on using a superior grade of builders glue (comes in a long tube) which sticks to anything - and never lets go - It is called sikabond (waterproof and will stick to metal, wood, glass, concrete and is chemical resistant) to glue and screw it all together, with glass and epoxy tape to strengthen it where required, corners, joins, etc.
I'll leave the ramp until I can actually see what I have to deal with - But I don't anticipate too many problems. Generally speaking, I'll be coming ashore at boat ramps, so I don't have to worry too much about beaches, but I think it will be OK. Best thing is the price - I guess between $7500 to $10,000 (Australian), including everything except motors, which I already have.
Location: Englewood, Colorado Most minimul landing craft Hey Wavewacker, did you ever settle in on a boat design? Originally Posted by rfleet1066 I only have a few sketches and calculations, no real drawings or blueprints. I remember seeing your posted photos for the cylindrical pontoons for your vessel back earlier in this subject thread, and I transferred one of them over to a 'retirement houseboat' subject thread. Ryland I look forward to your updates as I am again looking at 'floating home' options for both Thailand and USA. Location: New Kent, VA USA River boat progress The vessel comes along nicely. Location: New Kent, VA USA Landing craft photos I took some photos today of the vessel in progress. What is the yellow structure that can be seen in the background of the photo of the crane base? Location: New Kent, VA USA background In the background is my laboratory complex. Location: Fort Myers BeaCH Anchors Aweigh- Converted Navy Landing Craft I haven't completely cover your posts yet but I am glad to see some discussions about Navy Landing Craft.
Location: Fort Myers BeaCH LCM3 customized I have a LCM3 built in 1985 by Marinette Marine for the US Navy. In Sausalito CA a great many were converted to houseboats 30-50 years ago and a few of those are still around. As to my post above, I found another in the galleries, MO's hb220 I think, MO is in Berlin.
Here's some stuff from a 1943 text book the company used in their boat handling school, which trained thousands of CG and Navy coxswains who went on to drive these things into machine gun fire and worse.
The builders explain the shape better than I ever could in the second page of the Higgins Industries history and PR piece. More images from the web and an address with a digital model you can download and turn this way and that on screen to really understand the very very good and successful shape.

Location: Alaska Wavewacker, if I remember right you are trying to find a boat to haul a motorcycle around in? The reason I have been so insistant about this is that I saw a pic of a kid floating a motorcycle down the river in Viet Nam on a raft!
Location: Alaska Higgins Boat It turns out there is what appears to be an old Higgins boat close by me. This particular boat is sheathed in glass on the bottom and the sides are sheathed in steel. Location: USA It's unusual to see one that is so original, with the armor plate still on the sides. In the second photo you can see the laminated keel and a keel cooler that is built into the bottom. While the Higgins boat is a famous and great boat, I would think that it's not really economical to operate, fuel and maintenance are probably high. Location: USA Cabin was added and looks big enough for a bunk, a stove and the steering wheel, plus a small table.
Original Higgins boat and its derivative here, the LCVP, were very overbuilt to take beaching and battle damage, so last well even neglected. To ask how efficient the Higgins is wouldn't really be relevant, more like how efficient (MPG with a low hp ob ) would these tunnels be or the flat bottom shanty style? I also read where the freeboard began all most at 3' at the bow and 2' at the stern, I'd like a little more, another foot. Location: USA Take another look at the Bill Munson boats - they are somewhat similar to Higgins, but designed lighter and maybe handle rougher water. Baris You meaning landing craft as used by the armed services during the wars or coastal and lake landing craft use today ?? Location: USA IIRC, the original landing craft were Higgins boats and used at Normandy. Modern landing craft can draft 2 feet at the stern, depending on where their use is intended. The L-CAT consists of a full length mobile platform operated by hydraulic jacks, which is suspended between the two hulls. The French Ministry of Defence acquired four vessels and the first of series is scheduled to be delivered in 2011. Location: Salem, OR Flat Bottom Design for Landing Craft Hello, I am new to this forum basically because I am going to build a boat and I would like all of input that I can get. The cove that my cabin is in has a tidal range of 16' to -4' which means that at least 4 hours of the day my cove is dry.
I am building a 7'wide x 18' long landing craft out of marine plywood and I am trying to decide on the hull. I know that a small Vee will ride better in the sometimes 2' - 3' chop that I get between Ketchikan and my cabin but I worry about the boat resting on the ground all of that time and the stress on the Vee. When you choose a design, be sure to contact the designer and tell him what the weight of your ATV is. If you need more boat than barge to cover open water, then the garvey type hull is superior ..
Location: Massachusetts I would look at other boats in yr area serving similar purpose snd discuss with their owners. I am hoping to go at least 15 mph loaded through 1 - 2' with a 2,000 lb load so I will be using a 70 or 90 HP outboard.
I am probably going to have to eliminate the V hull because of the constant grounding issue which unfortunatelly is going to mean more pounding on the bow. Does anybody think that runners on the botom would help it not to slide in turns and waves?
Location: spain A 90hp outboard plus rigging weighs 400lbs, plus a Heavy ATV , gear and passengers makes an 18footer look a bit small . There are two layers to the bottom with 3 - 2x4x16 boards running the length for structural and load support. Location: Southeast Alaska I think you better make it look a little more like this one if you want to put a load in it and cruise around here. Location: Thailand This is a shape for the bottom you could use that has a slight rise in front and back bottom of hull that rocks it up when propulsion is applied and runs level with the water surface while planning.
I know you want to make from wood and a pity you did not make from aluminum ?less maintenance? then you could also plug the 1.5 ton torsion suspension that float off and on so when you are at the other side you can use your ATV to tow barge inland.
Ya know, a berth could be below a flat deck to roll on and off of, but I would think it would be better to keep the weight low.

I think the landing ramp will be around 15 feet long and can be deployed, folded or extended to make more deck space.
A narrow boat won't take a raised helm over a standing cabin too well, so that means the only about 4 feet of standing headroom and the rest bending and slithering, but that's okay. Allow for 50% of that so that the hulls only 'sink' by half, so that it draws only .6m (2 feet), which gives me a total of about 6 Tonnes.
I have nooo idea if these will allow me to plane with cargo & car on board, but I don't care, as it will be faster and easier than the stuffing around that I have to do now. Eventually I'd like to have a flybridge on the roof of the cabin, I also have a small crane with a 125Kg lift capacity (for the motorbike), which I could mount somewhere. The general idea is a hybrid - part full width ramp, part aluminium car ramps (if I need extra length).
I recently came back to that original photo of yours thru a link I had provided, as I was wondering how your project was getting along. Out of ignorance, I am proceeding in a logical progression of design and building, satisfying the basics first.
You are not going to get any sort of comfortable house on a smaller landing craft, unless you make it all cabin and give up the load carrying. During landing operations the platform lowers into the sea thereby lifting the vessel out of the water reducing its draft to approximately 0.8m allowing the vessel to navigate in shallow water and come to shore and beach. What about having a couple cat hulls on each side and a small cabin at the rear for access to the cat hulls and the helm? In either case bottom strength isn't too much of an issue typically, as stiffening up flat pannels isn't too hard and shell thickness is pretty high up forward for when you ground out - especially as many landing craft aren't that speedy.
I will be living there permenantly in a couple of years and I will always be transporting a large amount of items such as building materials and ATV's.
A V-section hull must be expressly designed to bear weight on its keel when it takes the ground.
With the loads, speeds, and water temprature you are talking about a home designed boat is a recipe for disaster. During high-speed navigation the platform is lifted in its highest position, improving the vessels sea-going capacities and allowing it to be deployed up to 200 miles from shore.
The flat bottom LC would need a stronger bottom since it would be off the water I would think. Simply putting V in a barge hull without consideration for the change in weight distribution is a recipe for disaster. And frankly if you are debating about adding a V or not to an existing design, you don't have a design you have a cocktail napkin sketch.
I'm fairly well connected in the metalworking business in this region, so with a word, I can get just about anything I need promptly.
Now, I can use the commercial barges, but it is $100 to the mainland (45 minutes), then I have to drive for 30 minutes, then another $100 (another 45 minutes) then I get to Nth Stradbroke Island (google to see where I live). I'll be using standard 8 x 4 sheets, you see - so the cat hulls will be 4' deep, but the sides will extend up 4' above.
I have a 250cc motorbike (Yamaha Virago), which I can also use if I want - should plane with that too. I know it's not marine grade, but I'll only be using them where they are not exposed to seawater. Heat and beat technology works, but it makes a bug difference to have a couple of lasers and plasma cutters in the 'brotherhood'. The vessel will operate in rivers and semi-protected waters where logs, snags and debris are a certainty.
So I can run the monster up to a local bay, put it in (the water is usually pretty calm and flat), then drive the car on and see what happens. I would have an 'elevator' on the aft one (actually the whole foil will tilt), this will give me about 50% lift, which should ensure planing at all times. Though they've got the deck area, the height needed to clear the wetdeck means your load-deck is pretty high and the ramp needs to be so much longer to give a sensible angle.

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