Working with fiberglass is not so difficult as many people think and it if usually very fun to do. Usually I get asked where I have learned all this stuff but there is no simple answer to that.
After I read this great fiberglass tutorial I bought a very cheap fiberglass kit which included some fiberglass resin and mat. Since the fiberglass kit was cheap I decided that I can waste some money to try something new and so I read the instructions on the fiberglass kit box and started working. After my first layer dried I went back to the supply shop and bought some more materials, that is about 5 kg of fiberglass resin and about 3 kg of mat. I then used some molding wax to wax my console mold form the inside and when it dried I applied white boat epoxy paint. If you want your project to look good when finished you should always use good materials if not the best ones. You will also need some protecting gloves and suit to cover your body and clothes from getting into contact with fiberglass resin. You need to apply fiberglass resin over your fiberglass mat with a paint brush by just pressing it into the mat. When you finish applying fiberglass resin to you surface be sure to check it for air pockets. Fiberglass brings a lot of advantages into boat building, however, the material is made at the same time as the structure of the product which means that the material isn’t complete until the cure cycle has finished and from there comes the need to control all the conditions that are crutial for the process.
Release Agent – Before you even start laying up the part, you apply a release agent to the tool. Bag Sealant Tape – is a putty-like material which comes in rolls with a release paper on one side. Bleeder and Breather – at least one layer of bleeder cloth goes above the release film. You might also be interested in reading Boat Building Online Shop, DIY Boat Plans for Boat Building, 10 Things You Must Have On Your Boat and 254 Plywood Boat Plans. I would like to replace the rubber with something else , but can't see how I can 'bend' wood or steel or aloy around the front part ?
Money is aswell an importened aspect as I just want to go seafishing with the boat and the wife already protests. CatBuilder Previous Member   My main advice would be to look at the numbers. Is this boat worth fixing, or is it a labor of love that you will do even if the repairs cost more than the boat is worth? Location: The Netherlands From what you are telling, the boat is still pretty sound, but you want a boat that looks better. I suggest using a pressure cleaner to clean the thing up, sand the deck with a course scotch brite, and paint with some LPU paint. Then use the boat to your likings, fix and adjust as neccesary, so you get a good view of what you demand from a boat. Originally Posted by Bullterrier Where can I get a rubrail or something to cover the edges ?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The damage often results in delamination, so tap the area with the back of a screwdriver to see the extent of the damage to the laminate. First off, when you locate the damage you will need to use a small saw to cut away the damage and the surrounding delaminated area (circles work best). You will need to place some sort of “backing” in the hole for supporting the layers of fiberglass as you fix them.


Next, it is time to begin the lay-up of the fiberglass layers (which you prepared in step five) and the polyester resin between them. Finally, remove the backer from the surface, fill the imperfections, and add gel-coat paste as needed. FIBERGLASS BOAT MAKINGunion 76 ball Commercial fishing vessel, fiberglass commercialbuilding a plug. I teach Business full time at the Nova Scotia Community College and part time at Dalhousie, Mount St. Most of today’s boats are built using fiberglass as the main material and molding as the method of building.
You may also want to read the Fiberglass Guide before you start working on your mold or find an appropriate boat plan to build mold form.
To prevent your mold from sticking to the plug, the plug must be coated with plastic film known as “PVA”. When the gelcoat has cured so that it cannot be scratched off with the fingernail at the edge of the mold, which takes from 2 to 4 hours to overnight in cool or humid weather, you are ready for the “skin coat.” This is a layer of ? or 1oz. Depending upon the condition of the mold surface, it may have to be sanded with 220 grit working up to 600 grit wet or dry. A lot of people has asked me how to do it and where I have learned all the stuff I do with fiberglass and where an individual can find these information in order to learn to work with it. I can tell you about many online tutorials that I have used to learn how to work with fiberglass but at the end you must try it on your own skin to learn how to master the technique. It was enough to try to start building a inflatable boat steering console for my first boat Lean I. If you would like to cover large areas you can use a paint roller but the roller must be a special one.
If there are any air pockets in fiberglass layer, water can start getting inside and it will begin to fall apart. The three most important ingredients that are needed for the cure are heat, pressure, and vacuum. You press the tape against the tool, leaving the release paper on until you are ready to apply the bag itself. It’s a relatively thick plastic layer, available in different amounts of conformability.
Indeed a nice post with lots of new information and use of Fiberglass vacuum bagging for boat building. Your boat’s floor can root over the years and so it becomes dangerous for you and your crew to move safely around the vessel.
If you fail to remove the wax, the grinding will get mixed with it and this will cause a weak bond. Polyester resin usually requires one to two percent of hardener by its cumulative amount (or volume).
Never do more than four at a time, and make sure you compress them while also getting out all the bubbles; consider using a squeegee.
Usualy there is a huge negative mold for every boat part that used when the boat is put together and this negative mold is used to make positive molds. You must either build a part from scratch using wood, plaster, polyester putty, sheet metal, etc.
Every time someone asks me about my work I take some time to explain to them how the whole process looks like.
When it dried I removed my wooden mold and what was left was my custom made fiberglass mold for inflatable boat steering console.
This means that the same techniques are used to build a steering console and for building an entire boat.


If you live in an area where this kind of shops are rare you can find some great resources online. Different weights mean that the heavier weights are stronger and the light ones are weaker but easier to use around corners. Peel plies are a tightly woven fabric, often nylon, and impregnated with some type of release agent.
Continue layering up until the repair is flush, and then finish it by cutting some mat and cloth. I also fiberglassed in a piece of plywood that was later used as a mounting for steering mechanism and steering wheel. You can also buy fiberglass woven matting which will add some strength to your product but it must be within the two layers of fiberglass mate. Fiberglass produces a large amount of heat when it starts to harden because of a intense chemical reaction. The peel ply will stick to the laminate, but it will pull away without too much difficulty.
The bleeder also acts as a breather, providing a continuous air path for pulling the vacuum.
Start at one corner and press the bag into the BST, removing the release paper from the tape as you move along the edge.
It is very important to assess the damage correctly so you don’t start the repair and by the time you are done you realise you forgot to renovate the foundations for the floor.
Molds are also made from fiberglass and are covered with a perfect layer of molding gelcoat. The plug is generally a male model (a positive model) exactly like the item you wish to build in all the details.
Boat builder than applies some molding wax over the glecoat and polishes it so it will later on be easier to remove the part form the mold.
I had a brand new custom made inflatable boat steering console and it was a lot cheaper than if I had bought it. Make sure you remember to attach the vacuum port (not shown in the figure) before closing the bag.
Moisture can start to build up inside the fiberglass cover and just imagine what will come out in a few years.
The breather must be thick enough so that it doesn’t become fully saturated with resin.
The base of the port goes inside the bag; cut a small cross in the bag for the attachment flange to fit through. Check out the Fiberglass How-To Guide and Basic Fiberglass Molding Techniques to get a general idea on what you have to do.
The best fiberglassing method is a vacuum bag which is able to provide both  pressure (up to 14.7 psi) and vacuum. If the tool has an area for the port, make sure there is a breather path from the port to the part.
If the port goes on the part itself, put several layers of breather under the port to prevent print-through. Ezi-build female mould, you need and sail boats in word of Be the whole floor removal boat plans stays in building.



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