Im new here and been reading along for a while now, looking for some opinions on the Downeast hull. The sheer line of the down east could be easily modified to match the Elco style and the deck houses are located similarly so the balance is there. Ive spoken to people who build em and obviously they are going to tell me its a great design, but what do the folks who own em say, Thats what Id love to know.
Im not set on any particular underbody design as long as its efficient at hull speed and is still a semi planing form, in case I need to run from something ugly in the sky. Ill definitely be getting a naval architect at some point but I dont want just one mans opinion on how to resolve a few issues with making the flat top seaworthy; so I thought Ild ask away on the design pages and see what kind of responses I get. You are indeed entering into an area that if 20 grand is of concern at this point to gain professional help, consider what the lack of education can cost. Be willing to spend those $thousand$ for a professional design or trade in your dream for something more realistic. Boston, I'm back at work for my present client, so cannot spend too much time answering your question above. I have no info on mac-compatible nav-arch programs - I stopped using Apple computers around 1986. With the specified horsepower it planes, but would act like an efficient semi-displacement hull at lower horsepower. Taking that hull form as the base, bring it up to 60 ft with a little more V in the keel for better helm control, retaining the principles of the buoyant deckhouse.
You may find that the ELCO topsides and superstructure are not compatible with what you want to do.
The underbody of the life boat seems like a simple v configuration and the topsides obviously give it the righting moment, seems pretty straight forward as to why it tends to pop up so nicely.
I probably should have mentioned my modest expectations concerning speed while still being able to get out of the way of a squall if I need to. True Downeast boats trace their legendary performance to a long line of ocean-proven work boats dating all the way back to Friendship sloops and Muscongus Bay schooners. When Maine fishermen began switching from sail to power, the Downeast hull configuration evolved from a true displacement hull to a longer, wider, semi-displacement hull. True Downeast hulls features a large keel, flat aft sections, and a fine entry, allowing them to slice cleanly and comfortably through the waves without significant loss of speed. As engines became more readily available, and horsepower and displacement increased, the fisherman built their work boats with flatter aft sections to support the weight and bulk of the bigger engines, yet retained the boat’s traditional fine entry. Planing hulls tend to ride on top of the water at speeds where they pound in any kind of a sea. Today, with a single engine, Ellis boats can duplicate the performance of most deep-V boats with twin engines, but with single-engine efficiency and economy. At slower speeds, these hulls point their bows high into the air reducing forward visibility to a dangerous level, and making for a very uncomfortable ride. Today’s true Downeast hulls use horsepower to get them up beyond displacement speeds, and yet these boats are still true to the central issue of providing predictable stability.
A more subtle aspect of the Downeast hull design are the soft chines (the gradual curve where bottom and sides meet). Each Ellis hull is manufactured in our state of the art two-piece molds (with the exception of the Ellis 20, which is constructed in a single piece mold due to its more manageable size). Yep - moored over on M-Head side -- use mostly for cruising (maine and cape) and putting around.
I traded him a Jacuzzi Jet drive (long story) for it, so I don't know what he gets for them.
Before deck lights and Before swim platform came off, still have it and would be simple to put back on. Planning a new larger build, I will be waiting a few seasons, interesting lessor trades to keep fishing will be entertained.
For anyone that doesn't have experience with pilot houses, they're a great thing when the wind is blowing and the rain is cold.
I hope this isn't too naive of a question about Down East Boats, but being from the West Coast, I have a great admiration for the design and utility of the boats, but am curious of the handling characteristics.
Personally I'd say a downeaster but I guess it depends what you plan on doing with the boat, price, size and what you want out if it. Real THT posters will not admit to owning a downeaster since they generally have a cruising speed of 20 knots or less.


There are a few commercial diesel downeasters advertised in the national fishermen for $50K or under. These are always great pictures and may have been here in a previous year but it's good to see new pictures. Hi Chris, I guess I could have been more specific, just over 42 feet, beam is 16.5, I believe she is mahogany. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. If you'd like to discuss this less publicly (better for me, since I'm not s'posed to flog my wares here) and in greater depth, contact me off-line at the address in my profile.
The canopy might be kinda heavy so I was thinking I could just build it as a frame with a covering to keep weight down.
I lived on the water as a kid and so getting around a squal is a definite design consideration, as is seaworthy, which the bay style cruisers were never intended to be, but they sure look good.
One idea I had was twin keels which definitely change roll characteristics, not sure exactly how, but they do! If I had options and had reasonable knowledge of the trade offs within those options I could make my best posible desicion however, gathering suficiently detailed information is fast proving itself to be difficult. You may be able to purchase information on this topic from the Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers (SNAME). The dollar-clock starts ticking when I have to do calculations, drawings, or providing specific design information. In the sciences when no single answer is always going to be the correct answer then a best answer can be derived from a concensus view. The downeast design is basically the classic lobster boat which does very will in the sizes normally found. It's prototyping and sea trials took place at Cape Disappointment on the Washington coast (Columbia River) which has one of the most treacherous coastal conditions on Earth. The differences in the final result from the Downeast hull is subtle in appearance but significant in improved offshore and inshore stability and functionality. I notice there are no bilge keels or stabilizer fins on it so I am suspecting they did something with roll dampening thats not so obvious. Stability is inherent in a design that includes a skeg to protect the underbody, propeller, steering gear, and drive train. In this long transition from sail to power, the builders shortened up the keel slightly, but kept the long and narrow hull. The common hard chine or planing hull must utilize a great deal of power (with a corresponding leap in fuel consumption) to drive the boat up out of the water and onto a plane. In bad weather, then, the planing hull must either travel at a bone-jarring rate of speed to stay on plane (if the hull and crew can withstand the punishment) or reduce its speed to a crawl to maintain a relatively flat attitude.
The fine entry of the forward section slices through the waves cleanly and without pounding. They are simply about as stable a platform as you could ever want–and that means stable at 8 knots, stable at 20 knots. The sound of waves slapping against a hull can be surprisingly disruptive to those who sleep aboard. These two pieces are hand-laid with stitched biaxial E-Glass and vinylester resin for superior strength and then fit together to form a one-piece hull while still in the mold. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. Belts , hoses, heat exchanger, after cooler, valves, fluids , filters, prop scan, new batteries added. This boat was made in Nova Scotia for commercial fishing in the worst of weather and built to last a lifetime. I have an older *mongrel* (says Mako on the side,but I have my doubts) that has what appears to be the exact same pilot house. Join the club of the masses with two lumpy things hanging on the transom & go skipping across the water like a rock. Anybody know anything about bertrams either the 25 or 31 or any other smaller sportfish syle boats?
I have a restored 20' Outrage with a new Yamaha 150 four stroke and a very nice Montauk with a new Etec 90. Ultimate stablity is the ability to come back from a hard roll - the kind you get when hit beam-on by a big green meannie that you didn't see coming.


While there are some professionals around this joint, one thread with some idle time writing unless you are yourself versed in some of the areas of multiple designs, may give you just enough to sometimes even make the wrong decision. Seems that the consensus view in naval architecture is a far more elusive bird than I had imagined. The hull bellow the waterline looks like its pretty typical but the large central pilot house and survivors cabin look like they serve as a great big buoyant pops it back upright feature in a roll over. Having owned a construction company for the last 30 or so years I can assure you there are ways to make that boat strong enough to withstand a complete submersion. Once on top of the water, the hull will pound and slap the waves, and has little lateral resistance to wave motion and, as a result, will pitch and roll, often lifting the props out of the water. It’s an exceptionally dry ride, with the flared bow effortlessly tossing aside the bow wave as the hull slips through the water without a fuss. The center seam is filled with twelve layers of fiberglass which fuse the two halves together creating an extraordinarily strong keel. I had the cruiser top like the yellow one showed earlier put on for creature comforts then extended it to a 40'6" so I still get the large cockpit I want. The issue is walking into that office with some idea of the choices for the hull design and what the characteristics of each are, there is a lot of ways to put a monohull together and it does seem like there are plenty of mono's out there so there's bound to be two or three I should be considering as options. In fact, the early boats, with a ratio of three feet of length to one foot of beam, could be driven to hull speed with just 3 hp.
More importantly, the keel and skeg serve to protect the vessel’s running gear in the case of accidental or deliberate groundings. The flat after section tends to squat slightly, keeping the propeller and rudder deep in the water for a solid bite and excellent steerage.
Many of our customers find this single feature to be of real value when tied up to a mooring or alongside a dock.
With the exception of the solid fiberglass keel and skeg, the hull is cored with vacuum bagged ATC Core-CellĀ® structural foam core to provide exceptional seaworthiness, impact resistance, sound deadening, strength to weight ratios and insulation properties.
She is powered by a 140DF Suzuki four stroke, 2005 leftover, bought and installed in 2007 with 125 hours, just completed the 100 hour dealer service and is warrantied until 2013. Looks like the majority of the reasons that the 57 was limited to coasting can be resolved. The end result will pretty much look the same as the downeast, but would be far more stable and safer.
At the same time, the full length skeg and keel resists side-to-side rocking, while helping the boat track effortlessly–even in a following sea. The Downeast hull, even in nasty chop and heavy swell conditions, can cruise comfortable all day long at 12 to 20 knots.
The leaning post was installed in 2007 with a reversible backrest for fishing (4 built in rod holders) or cocktails in the harbor.
Too slow and you get seasick and the boat can easily be swamped by a wave that it can't get out of the way of. Problems are made to be solved, at some point the sum of those solutions may beg a whole new consideration, but, Ive seen way worse than the 57 slip into harbor just moments before great big huge week long system hit. I think it was Ted Brewer who came up with a formula for this or maybe it was for comfort in various sea states. But don't get the idea that I'm trying to talk you out of the idea - it's a good one, if you do it up right.
I remember reading a article by him ages ago but forget the terms he aplied to pitch and roll variations and at what point the boat is happy to be upside down. The bane of these types of boats is topsides weight - don't do much (if any) of a flying bridge. Given the cost of a boat this size, I would sggest that a custom design is probably the right way to go, and it isn't that much when compared to the total price of the boat. And a pro designer will be able to design it so that you will know that the seakindliness and safety are built-in. She comes with a float-on galvanized trailer, stainless boarding ladder, coast guard package etc etc.



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