Location: South Africa Fiberglass help needed Whilst hand laminating with CSM, some bubble like dry spots appear that refuses to be wetted or lay down - what can the cause of this be?
Location: South Africa Manie, the surface is clean - the plug was gelcoated this afternoon and I let the gelcoat cured past the finger pull scream test, about 3 hours total. Location: Australia Once the resin has set the only way is to grind out or fill with a syringe that I know of. Location: toronto did you wear gloves while you were cutting the fiberglass, i see this problem with guys waxing moulds and not properly washing the wax off there hands and you end up with areas that the resin wont wet out.
Location: South Africa No gloves were used, but hands were clean at the time. Will start filling those that did not bubbled out with a syringe and the bad ones that popped out be we grind out carefully and patched before the next layer goes on. The mat at places refused to be wet out and some of the bigger spots (two the size of my hands) did wet out and bond as the steel roller went over and then just lifted off again - no matter how much you roll it down. Decided to use woven roving for the next layer as it wet out easier to get things back on an even keel before putting the next CSM down. Location: South Africa Decided what the hell and let the apprentice and helper loose with small grinders fitted with sanding discs.
Location: Monroe WA If these spots refused to saturate with resin and returned immediately after rolling, then it's an issue with the mat. It's best to not apply roving directly over any cured laminate, the bond will not be as good as when mat is used as the first layer. Location: South Africa ondarvr, it must have been the binder in the mat as no contamination was cause on my side, and the fact that most of the serious damage was on the one strip over the midship area and to a lesser amount elsewhere. All layups will go on singular up to the CoreMat, but the last two CSM's will go on together the prevent heat buildup close to the gelcoat and to prevent warping of the mould. Location: Monroe WA I must not have paid attention the making a mold part, I was thinking you were making a part. For making molds one layer at a time the resin needs to be of the correct type, skin resins are promoted so they cure better in a thin laminate resulting in less post cure.
Location: Australia Looking at the photos it does look like contamination problem, I am guessing not a binder issue but some other contamination that could have happened during the mat manufacturing. As ondarvr mentioned you most frequently see this happen as a result of contamination with gelled resin. Attaching foam to a mould » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Fiberglass Cloth or Fiberglass Mat?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.

Our repairs on Jet Skis, SeaDoo, Waverunner all PWC and fiberglass Sport jet boats has evolved with the new products allowing us to Always Guarantee our work. At American Boat Works Fiberglass Boat Repair we handle insurance claims on fiberglass boat collisions for all major Insurance companies. Fiberglass Boat Building Books Front to Include full manual Boatbuilding Skiff built wooden boat for all seasons by creating a ten Fiberglass Boat Building Books . Fiberglass brings a lot of advantages into boat building, however, the material is made at the same time as the structure of the product which means that the material isn’t complete until the cure cycle has finished and from there comes the need to control all the conditions that are crutial for the process. Release Agent – Before you even start laying up the part, you apply a release agent to the tool. Bag Sealant Tape – is a putty-like material which comes in rolls with a release paper on one side. Bleeder and Breather – at least one layer of bleeder cloth goes above the release film. You might also be interested in reading Boat Building Online Shop, DIY Boat Plans for Boat Building, 10 Things You Must Have On Your Boat and 254 Plywood Boat Plans. Location: Milwaukee, WI You need to start by buying plans with construction details and scantlings. 1708 Bi-axle over Balsa » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post re establish boot and shear stripe!!!?? Now that it is set, can it be repaired by injecting resin into the void between the gelcoat and the CSM with a syringe to fill it solid before laying the next layer of mat?
Then a barrier coat of clean laminating resin applied and waited until it kicked, followed by the first CSM coat giving the problems now. It may be the binder was applied incorrectly (uneven), or from handling it you contaminated the surface with catalyzed resin that gelled creating stiff spots that spring back. I laid down a cloth instead of wr and all went well and the plug is now evenly covered with a rather fair and smooth surface to build upon. We do factory warranty work for most major fiberglass boat builders directly and through their dealerships. The three most important ingredients that are needed for the cure are heat, pressure, and vacuum. You press the tape against the tool, leaving the release paper on until you are ready to apply the bag itself.
It’s a relatively thick plastic layer, available in different amounts of conformability.
Indeed a nice post with lots of new information and use of Fiberglass vacuum bagging for boat building.

If you do plan to use more layers of glass be sure to catalyze the resin at the lower end of the recommended range so you have enough time and the layup doesn't get too hot. Peel plies are a tightly woven fabric, often nylon, and impregnated with some type of release agent.
Fiberglass boat building and repair has evolved over the years, the use of modern adhesives in fiberglass boats has enabled fiberglass boat builders and the fiberglass boat repair shops to save time in fiberglass boat building and on fiberglass boat repair. Advanced crafters that this study has resulted in our book than 400 naval fiberglass web pages for amateurs. The peel ply will stick to the laminate, but it will pull away without too much difficulty. The bleeder also acts as a breather, providing a continuous air path for pulling the vacuum.
Start at one corner and press the bag into the BST, removing the release paper from the tape as you move along the edge. A fiberglass boat that has had a collision is obvious why its broken, but it's our years of experience that lets us determine why there wasA  stringer failure or why there areA  stress cracks along the strakes, allowing us to properly repair and guarantee the job. Sometimes reworking the surface eliminates the pattern for good, but it may continue to return. Make sure you remember to attach the vacuum port (not shown in the figure) before closing the bag.
The breather must be thick enough so that it doesn’t become fully saturated with resin. The base of the port goes inside the bag; cut a small cross in the bag for the attachment flange to fit through.
The best fiberglassing method is a vacuum bag which is able to provide both  pressure (up to 14.7 psi) and vacuum. If the tool has an area for the port, make sure there is a breather path from the port to the part. If the port goes on the part itself, put several layers of breather under the port to prevent print-through.
Some details and hardware components can definitely make your task easier but first you'll need an introduction to fiberglass Fiberglass Boat Building Books.
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