Location: Florida Structural Repair of Fiberglass Hull I recently came across a 1999 48' Ocean Super Sport that had been struck in the transom by another boat. In the aerospace industry we could repair a substantial delamination using custom windings of carbon fibre, but the component would not be airworthy.
Location: Corpus Christi TX Any fiberglass boat, cored or not, is repairable.
Everything appears fine, but the stern damage, flybridge equipment, rails and other assorted gear. You have to ask yourself, why hasn't a salvage company picked her up, removed the good pieces and dragged the hulk to the land fill? It's very hard to sell a boat like this one, so you'll be bidding against other hopeful would be owners and restorers. Everybody knows it's hard to sell a yacht in this size range, let alone one that doesn't float without tens of thousands of dollars in additional effort. If you have a good bit of experience repairing or restoring large power craft then this is the boat for you. I once bought a sweet big Grady, but had to have it moved from in from of the shopping center's front door, before they were done putting in windows and roofing. I turned down a very good deal on a 98' schooner (wish I hadn't now) that was lifted over her docking piles, then dropped down (storm surge), holing her in the four locations the yacht was tied to.
In my line of work any structural crack like the ones on that boat means the entire part must be scrapped. Location: Eustis, FL In high end yachts this isn't far from what you've described. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Milwaukee, WI Cloth for use with polyester and vinylester have a bonding agent that dissolves with styrene.
Originally Posted by gonzo Cloth for use with polyester and vinylester have a bonding agent that dissolves with styrene.
Location: Milwaukee, WI Chop strand is what comes off a chop gun or is loosely packaged as a filler.
Location: Sunny Ft Lauderdale Fla The Glass is usually treated with Volan A for the most common polyester resins ,the glass manufactures apply a Silane containing size when it is first pulled from the melt,The chemical makeup of these is proprietary and designed to be computable with specific resins,in other words they are targeted and have maximum reactivity with a particular thermosetting resin during cure. Mjk the problem will come from moisture and your laminate without a sizing there could be a problem. If you are looking to give your boat the ultimate protection, there is nothing better than the gel coat. When spraying gelcoat with a preval sprayer, strain your gelcoat after it has been reduced and activated using a paper disposable strainer then disregard the plastic strainer attached to the straw from the preval sprayer. Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada fiberglass on plywood I'm a first time user of the forum. Location: United States You need to apply a 2-part fairing compound over the raw glass. Some years ago I built two different 14' boats, lamenated masts, sewed sails and all worked out great.
Location: toronto all you need is wax , next time you go to rayplex ask for Ray tell him jack from dwight crane sent you fiberglass jack View Public Profile View fiberglass jack's Website View fiberglass jack's Gallery Find all posts by fiberglass jack « The Future of Boating ???
Fiberglass floor Boat, Fiberglass floor Yacht, Fiberglass hull Yacht, Fiberglass Yacht, Model No. Florida Keys has been a favorite destination for fishing enthusiasts because of the interesting fishing ground and coral reefs present around here. Let me share a few tricks and tips to fix a boat with you, whether it's a small hole or crack, or larger scale damage.
I have what is probably one of the original Beverly dinghies, designed by Sidney Herreshoff for the Beverly Yacht Club in MA. It will be minimally-sized to suit the outboard (as small as I can get it so the engine is able to tilt up), which puts the bracket in the 15 inch range. Originally I was going to make a non-flotation one out of aluminum, more like a long jack plate, ie big channel cut to the right angle or possible plate and angle bolted together similarly.


Now looking at what others have done out of fiberglass, I'm wondering if wood and glass would be a better option - I could easily create any shape that way; the weight would probably be similar for such a small object. Location: portsmouth england ive built quite a few outboard pods in the last couple years for people.
Location: Australia 16 feet is not a size you can go moving a 350 lb weight aft a couple of feet and not notice a big difference. Originally Posted by Mr Efficiency 16 feet is not a size you can go moving a 350 lb weight aft a couple of feet and not notice a big difference. That wasn't accounting for the transom angle, the impact of mounting the engine higher for the setback, or the likely possibility of the engine coming partially over the transom at full tilt. So it's very possible the bracket ends up more like 12 inches or less if I carefully calculate the true clearance required. Another option is I could forseeably find a 25 inch driveshaft & exhaust housing, make the engine I've got a 25 inch (currently a 20) and build the existing transom up to that level. Location: Australia You need to have enough clearance to fully tilt the motor, in the straight-ahead position. Location: Australia It doesn't seem you gained much internal space there WP23, what was the object of the exercise for you ? Location: australia probably a bit hard to see in the pics mr e, but the pod only extends into the hull about 200 mm so now the inside is flush right across , I don't know the correct word but that is the original capping across the transom which is just deep enough to have a battery each side of the pod. Location: australia i only did it this way to utilize the engine beds instead of building a new thicker transom. Location: Australia OK, so the pod is attached to the old inboard engine bed, that sounds like good use of existing structure, if it can take the stresses.
Location: australia so far so good, it is also epoxy glassed right up each side at transom as well. Some background information though - boat is a 16 foot aluminum starcraft converted to a center console, it has a 20 gallon fuel tank ~1 foot forward from the transom - then 3 batteries forward of that, then a console forward of that.
With this setup I have alot of freedom to move weight around - for instance the 200 lbs of batteries can go all the way up to the bow if needed. Location: australia I prefer to keep pods short as I can, with the v4 you can get away with a fairly short pod, mine is 400mm and it protrudes enough to mount a swim platform each side which I will be doing.
Apparently the force of collision was substantial: the transom is cracked and completely delaminated from the bottom of the transom door to the trailing edge of the hull. I have to admit, living here in Florida, I get kind of excited when hurricane season springs into gear.
There are many books available on the subject, but basically, the damage is cut away and replaced with a layup of new material. Well it's like you car, some places charge $60 per man hour, some much higher, the selection is based on faith, just like the guy you trust to fix your car and the experiences you have with him provide you with the faith to bring it back for additional work if the need (doesn't it always) arises. We are currently working on a carbon fibre-Al-CuNi sandwich technology that would yield an extremely strong lightweight panel that can be twisted like a pretzle and is corrosion resistant without any coatings. It is used in order to keep the original surface of cars, trucks and other vehicles as good as new. Get simple directions on making this boat repair, along with a list of the materials you\'ll need. Covers how to patch a large hole (this one was roughly 6" wide) in a standard fiberglass boat hull. Anyone know about how thick of plywood and how much laminate this would require to hold a 350 lb ~100 HP engine?
Aside from the work involved in getting the transom extended + modifying the engine, I'm not really keen on that idea though because in the end the engine rigging will all be in the boat. The extra bouyancy of the pod might be handy to keep the powerhead higher, even if the boat has become a little tender. I am going to build a ply box which extends above the pod to mount a bait board on top and tackle trays underneath. With this type of setup - is there any reason to go longer than required to tilt the engine up? If you require further details regarding the transaction data, please contact the supplier directly.


However the way the core material is splintered it strikes me that any repair in this area would be prone to stress cracks and eventual failure. From the sound of it, I think this Ocean was definitely repairable, so long as the engines, other systems are in good order. However with the fly bridge went all of the electronics, engine management system and controls. One would think that at these price levels a buyer would have a very stringent set of requirements. I know that's a terrible thing to hope for, but you can't imagine the deals a marina, owner, bank or insurance company will make to get a broken 40' yacht out of someone's backyard. The company that got it, cut and replaced the piles, tacked plywood over the damaged areas and floated her away. Individual fibres are wound around a mold and laced in a very specific order to focus stresses on specific bearing members. No big deal ACCEPT the corner of the swim grid was under the dock and when the stern lifted in the swell, the SG supports punched through the transom about a foot below the water line.
Place matching gelcoat in two catagories, color value and shade value, blending the different pigments into your gelcoat to reach the same color as the boat. Few things are more disheartening to the boatowner than staring at the fuzzy edge of broken fiberglass. If your boat has a lot of width at the transom, say 175cm chine-to-chine, you can probably get away with it, but if it were 150cm, I'd say forget it. I have dragged this boat over rough roads, thrashed it in steep chop and it is rock solid, the old Johnson on the back is over 150 kg and the pod handles it fine. Then in front of the console there is about 4 feet, two storage areas there running width-wise - one for fish aft, one for anchor forward.
It sat OK in the water (kinda flat) but always felt kinda bow heavy and was slow - with 1 person it could do 30 but with 2 it could barely plane no matter where the second passenger stood. Efficiency expressed; I very much want to go with a bracket but do not want it to cause problems either. Cores are usually easily repairable by cutting the skin open, cutting out and replacing the damaged core, then rebuilding the skin.
I looked up similar boats in the 98-02 model years of the same size, engine and operating hours and they averaged $320-375k asking price. In calling the manufacture they indicated the cloth is heat treated to burn of any containment and that no coating have been applied to it.
It is entirely different podding a 16 footer to say, a 20 footer, the engine is far bigger percentage of total weight, in the case of the smaller boat. I removed a v8 inboard v drive and made the pod to bolt to the old engine beds as well as tabbing it with cloth and epoxy.
Standing on the transom had little impact to the boat, so I always said just dropping a heavier outboard on the back might fix all of the problems (power and weight distribution). Basically I planned to measure the length needed, build no longer than that, then if I want an extra inch I can just add a shim to move it back or change the angle so it can't trim as high (versus being stuck with a bracket that is 2 inches longer than needed) - is this a bad idea? If struck the lamination will stretch and then rebound (kind of like the plastic panels found on certain cars).
In order to make a boat look good and perform well, you need to get the help of a professional who will ensure that your boat gets the right kind of look to match its power packed performance. Then if you use polyester you have to paint the polystyrene to seal it (use a denser grade) or the polyester will eat it up, water based wall paint is fine.
It becomes a different equation if you make the pod a continuation of the bottom, but it doesn't guarantee success.



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Comments to “Fiberglass boat design plans uk”

  1. IMMORTAL_MAN666  writes:
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  2. Natiq  writes:
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