Location: united states In the photo, am I seeing two crimps that need to be straightened in the gunnel? My preference is epoxy with three fillers on hand that I can adjust for strength and consistency. Chopped strand for areas that need strength that will be covered with another layer for sanding. Location: Alberta I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean about crimps? If the damaged areas are within a few inches of the aluminum rub rails, they'll need to be removed, but other wise nope, just leave them for now. Ideally, you'll probably need to make repairs on both sides of the heavily damaged areas, but the minor stuff can be done from the outside only.
You should read up on 'glass repairs in general, of which there's lot of information on line. Generally, the repairs boil down to grinding back to good laminate, replacing the missing and damaged laminate with new materials (applying fabrics and goo), then fairing and smoothing in prep for paint. Lastly, roll and tipping gel coat isn't going to give you a surface you'll be pleased with. Location: Virginia, USA I did a canoe for a friend last year that looked just like yours, but it was green. After it set, we sanded any bumps out, and then I faired with US Composites fairing mix and poly resin.
FWIW, I've done some nice gelcoat work using a foam roller, but you have to put it on pretty thick, and then you will have to sand it down with a random orbit, and then with 3M Fiberglass restorer or rubbing and then polishing compound to make it look good. That being said, I used Awlgrip for the first time last week, via roll and tip method that I learned here, and it was SO much easier!!! Location: Hampshire UK My own inclination with this canoe would be grind it back with 40 or 60 grit after cutting out any obvious hole. If you have structural issues in certain areas then epoxy in those places would be a better bet.
Location: Eustis, FL Suki, that's the technique I use when someone insists on gelcoat and I can't get it into the booth. PAR, I would agree, when it is all cut down and buffed out it is probably better than the original finish. Location: Hampshire UK Gelcoat certainly is capable of hiding the 'High Crimes and Misdemeanours' of certain boatbuilders.


When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: USA fiberglass canoe construction Hi, I?m looking to build a 14' river canoe out of fiberglass with this mold I?ve recently acquired. If anyone has ever built a canoe with a halve mold any information or advice would be greatly appreciated. Location: Eustis, FL Are you sure they are half molds and the hull shell is bonded down the centerline or is it a mold that's designed to be used, clamped together and the hull shell popped out whole, by separating the halves?
Location: iowa interesting , hope you take some photos along the way i would like to see them. Location: USA fiberglass I?m going to use fiberglass for its construction. Location: oklahoma Building one half and then the other and marrying the 2 is really a pain.
Location: USA its been awile but i just thought about this site and that i never made a final update of progress, as far as the canoe goes its finished i used one layer of woven roving and a layer of fiberglass mat to construct the two halves. Location: USA yea i was planning on coating it with a layer of varnish that to protect the epoxy while maintaining the transparency.
By clicking Confirm bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By clicking Confirm bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab. By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. Make the choice early about epoxy, because the techniques and procedures are slightly different. I've never seen a novice, working in his backyard or driveway make reasonable gel coat finish yet.
Then rebuild with polyester and woven rovings probably around 280 gsm weight maybe with a lighter 200 gsm on the surface. Note not all fillers and tissues work with both polyester and epoxy resin so choose the right thing for the right job.
The best method I have used (spray gelcoat is 25Kg minimum order in the UK) is to use a gloss mini roller (cut down to half length) and use that.
I apply enough coats to insure once I've flattened out the hand applied imperfections, there's enough left to buff out a few times.


The price usually makes most go with paint, because it's so labor intensive, but some just insist on gelcoat and some boats don't fit in the booth. Matching colors is just experience and experimentation at the professional level and guess work in the back yard or driveway.. Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. From my cursory reading I realize there is a large amount of work involved in sanding gel coat that has been brushed on, but I am willing to do it because I do not have the tools to spray. Roving is much better than CSM (chopped strand) in my experience and it will equally go round smooth 3 dimensional curved surfaces quite well. It's all labor and tedious, but the result is usually better then a factory finish, assuming using the proper materials.
If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. You'd be best advised to just paint this puppy, when she's ready, which is much easier to get great results, without a spray outfit (roll and tip). But you can get styrene monomer that has paraffin wax dissolved in it, that when added to resins will give a tack free surface. This must then be abraded and all the surface fully scratched clean to remove the monomer from the surface for a subsequent coat. The worst are the 'white' Swedish 2.4s and the current Charger Composites Norlin 3 needs a bit of salmon pink added to the white to get a seamless match. It has a short shelf life, nominally 2 months but will last up to about a year if stored carefully.
It is pretty time consuming, and the key is to cut the gelcoat at exactly the right time in the cure. In the US you may get slightly different labelling, just one of those things, like Perspex in UK is Plexiglass in US, same product though.



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