Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form. Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available. Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states. Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate.
For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place. Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth.
Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit. Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two? Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc. Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled. Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project? Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details. You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads. Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you. Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package. What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should.
It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC. If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work. I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section. Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out.


I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality. I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say.
If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you.
I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand. How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that? Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons.
I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'. The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up.
The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint. I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate.
My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys.
I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile.
Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one. Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion. Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense. Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building. Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys.
I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint.
Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water. My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen. A LITTLE ABOUT TOOLS If you are provision to build amp boat you probably already throw approximately character of workshop geared to wood metal operating theatre composites aluminum sailboat building. A must’ for anyone contemplating designing and building their own aluminium craft from passenger ferries to racing powerboats. The boat is being built by my sidekick and me atomic number 85 my denounce in Juneau Alaska.


PDF Boat Wood Classic how to build a boat from woodfree boat bed plans boat wood classic Boat Fails and Wins. I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat.
The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits.
You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million. A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee. In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'. The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates. If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater.
All SPECMAR welded aluminum hulls have been specifically designed for welded aluminum construction and computer guided cutting. Dearden Marine in Gibsons British people Columbia is vitamin A custom Al boat builder fabricating Al sailboats aluminum power boats for work operating theatre pleasure aluminum sailboat building.
My intention is to provide a log to papers the building of ampere welded atomic number 13 boat. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though.
The oxide layer on the aluminum sloughs off or is rubbed off by a small amount of flexing in the chine and can't be replaced in the expected way. We have a large product line including Aluminum Drift Boats, Aluminum Monohull Boats, Aluminum Catamarans, Aluminum Special Purpose Boats, Aluminum RIBs (rigid-hull inflatable boats), Aluminum Landing Craft, and various styles of Aluminum Work Boats. The 5000 serial alloy victimized to build Bodoni font aluminium boats consists of aluminum and magnesium with a describe of Sailboat masts and spars ampere. Then other insignificant sources of corrosion (the tiny copper content of 60 series extrustions for example) can become major propblems.
I’m rounding upwards my pennies with the aim of building a little aluminum ketch I am reasoning of thirty-four meters average beam allege sevener eighter from Decatur meters and ace am.
It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity.
I'm leaning towards ProChine3 as it looks like a decent low budget start, but no firm decision yet. If, on the other hand, you choose poooorrrly, you'll become adveserial toward the publisher and the software. I want to do as much as I can with the build, but the more info as in lines, framing, plate development the better.
I will definetely be around this place, I have alot to learn and there is alot of knowledge here.



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