Location: New Zealand Have a look at these hulls, better than a flat bottom less hp to drive and greater stability! Lemme see if I can get an image or two uploaded here just to keep the thread up to date eh? Of course Now she weighs so much that the lil 25 hp Mariner just wouldn't quite plane her with anything but me aboard - so much as a stiff headwind would knock me off plane and one passenger turned her into a slug displacement 6 knot vessel that drank fuel like it was going outta style. For anyone contemplating building thier own alloy boat from a kit - there are a series of two Aussie boating magazine articles, where the female editor welded up her own 4.75 meter (16 ft) boat from one of CDM's Plasma cut kits. You can get back issues of the two magazines containing the articles &photo's on the CDM plate boat project below. You'd need the back issues numbers 61 from Jan 2001 & 62 from Feb 2001 available online thru the backissues order link off the mainpage link above to read up and get an idea of how hard or easy such a project can be. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
The second in a three-part series in which we take a used aluminum boat and be sitting very high and would be put to the test when driving the boat.
Oh yes Plans I think the pics that went missing from my first post may have been the plans for this 16ft alloy V bottom johnboat.
And one last one showing the broad outline of how the pieces go together once released from their parent sheet bye cutting the tabs that hold it in place.. You get a step bye step guide booklet that tells you what to do and in what order, as well as another book that tells you all about the welding process and what your aiming to achieve in terms of a decent weld. Also you get all the info you need on electrolysis protection painting wiring etc etc the hull. If you want free hull lines for this kind of powerboat contact me and I will send you a 3D dxf files.
I probably should have added another post to this thread, about the Australian Standards that apply to powering such a vessel. Knowing that 60 Hp is the max you can get on a 16 ft alloy boat, you have to start to wonder how a manufacturer can get away then with putting 200 horses on the back of a similar vessel?
The above standard AS 1799 is not a commercial vessel standard and does not apply to survey vessels. Hmmm thats got me thinking then I wonder how many horsepower I can get away with on one a these?
Then again It mightn't be a bad idea if i conduct a few stability tests before I get too carried away!
Sorry Joe 4 months later I spotted your question when I was reading back thru an old thread looking for something else.

All up with the 50 HP outboard it weighs a LOT more than you might think - like a full 1 tonne (1000 kilos, or ~2250 pounds).
If you run that vessel lightship (minimal gear) then yes a 25 HP is ample and when fiorst buolt I ran her for a year or more with 25 ponies -including some relaticely long offshore islands runs of up to 38 Nm in one leg - 24 in another and about 40 in yet another. The rason for the 50 is the weight the vessel gained with the timber console gear locker thwart seat, flotation foam additional 5 gal tank, 3 batterys electroc troller and all the fly gear I cart while on charter. All that gear was required to achieve a comemrcial passenger survey cert from Govt transport authorities (along with epirbs and fkares radio sat phone charts etc etc etc etc.. I do agree that lightship with 50 ponies she would be a real handfull especially in it's current tiller steer configuration. Then again the 16 ft Punt I posted painted white has 200 ponies on basically the same hullform.(go figure). I did hear the engione was recovered and that passengers survived the crocks due to the speed bouncing them across the water up the bank some meters beyond the waters edge (and crock territory).
Reflecting on a distaste for plastic, and the inevitability of rot, one's thoughts turn to aluminum. I have read that the preferred method is solid, not pop rivets, and 5200 as a sealer in the joint. All the modest sized aluminum boats I have seen use a fairly lightweight aluminum that is not very stiff. My objection to aluminum in small boats is the noise and that fact that they get burning hot in the sun. A lot is made of aluminum's expense, but I wonder just how much more expensive it is to use in fabrication after one factors in the highest quality woods, countless coatings of epoxy, fairing materials, fiberglass, primer, paint, etc..
There used to be a story, apparently an urban myth, that if you dropped a penny in the bilge of an aluminum boat it would galvanically eat a hole right through the hull in no time at all.
It seems to me, that even though a hull may be constructed of aluminum, and no longer really a wooden boat, there still could be an awful lot of woodwork left on such a boat, especially if trying to make that boat beautiful.
I could see it if you are a welder with the tools and materials at hand but other wise lots of $ and extra work.
So you cover it, and there seem to be two choices, one being to cover it with polyester and glass as explained by Vaitses.
So, aluminum may have serious disadvantages, but it does not have two of the big ones in the other method I tried. The Sears boat isn't anything like what I had in mind by the way, I want to build a nice v or flat bottomed sailing boat with a traditional sail plan.
The first sign of trouble is usually the smell of gasoline in the compartment holding the fuel tank.

Another place corrosion can develop is when trailerable boats are taken out of the water and set on trailer bunks that hold moisture against the hull as it is exposed to rain, etc.
De Havilland here in Australia used to build riveted aluminium boats, I bet they did something similar in Canada too.
The sheets were fastened at the chine to a rolled aluminium chine chine piece, it was two flats and a raised section, sort of U shaped with the two flats extending 90 degrees off the end. For smaller boats, you really can't beat plywood for price and ease of construction, even using proper materials everywhere. My Diamond yacht spent 20+ years in the water on a mooring, with only antifouling protecting it, and even then, when I bought it, there was bare plywood in places. Rumour has it she was written off douing 70MPH around a bend in Australia's northern territories East Alligator river. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. Even if the aluminum is weldable trying to weld the thin stock used for small boat hulls is also difficult because of the potential for warpage.
Bigger ones get interiors built into them and possibly sound deadening material, too, making them more agreeable.
And I've seen any number of cheap aluminum fishing skiffs used in salt water for years without big problems.
The seams were sealed with some sort of sealant as they were riveted with aircraft type rivets. 12′ Jon gravy holder Plans CLICK HERE To See Our arrant 3D Boat Plans With Jig Design and Cut Files. And I do believe one of our resident naval architects, who I hope will come along shortly, has designed aluminum boats for saltwater use. Most jon Welcome to utterly Free Plans in this part you will find free boat building plans including accessories and expression techniques.
To build an aluminum hull from flat panels requires either much thicker, heavier stock or some kind of add-on channels to keep the panels from oil-canning. Absolve plans have This is a collection of over 50 boat building plans in PDF files zipped in one free aluminum jon boat plans.

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