Our driftboat designs are the most-advanced available, yet specially intended for first-timers. We detail hull assembly over three temporary forms (much like frames) made from any type of plywood of specified thickness, plus the wood-framed plywood transom (stern) and stem (bow member) cut from a 2" x 6" - both of which stay in the boat.
At last, Glen-L has obtained EXCLUSIVE rights to Ken’s design collection so you can stop dreaming and start building! Ken worked for Glen-L for over 22 years from 1965 until 1987 when he ventured out on his own and formed Hankinson Associates. A friend wants to build a McKenzie River (that's in Oregon) drift boat and he's found several kit suppliers but no plans, except for Tracy Obrien's stitch and glue plans.
They feature frame-free hulls (no ribs!) based on modern stress-skin engineering principles for faster, easier construction & reduced weight. Our hulls are designed for quick response to oar inputs, have exceptional stability, are dry running, and come in a wide variety of sizes to suit most any river fishing or whitewater river-running condition. We call all these the "backbone" members, and include FULL SIZE PATTERNS for their contours so you can make them easily and without error (plans & instructions show you how). Hulls are built upside-down over the backbone members which are set up on a simple jig made from a few ordinary 2" x 4" members as fully detailed on the plans.

Now you can get that Hankinson Barrelback design you were drooling over or that power cat you have been longing for…or, how about a 19] high performance tug or classic mahogany runabout?
However, we feel that Hankinson designs will fit right in…let us know what you think! To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. They went together with little fuss, the plans are very complete, and they boats work well. Yet with our integral side trays, bow, and stern compartments with decks, strength and stiffness are superior!
Plans show adjustable, removable seats for perfect load balance, side trays, knee locks, and the option of an outboard motor up to 10 HP.
You can use either a good grade of Exterior or full Marine grade plywood panels in any case.
A few longitudinal members (straight wood "sticks" if you will) are added to back the joints and stiffen the hull - these can be bought in most any lumberyard to size. All plans also include FULL-SIZE PATTERNS for hull-forming backbone members (*) - NO LOFTING OR LAYOUTS REQUIRED!

Fairing (hand-beveling for fit) is mostly unnecessary since bevels can largely be pre-sawn. And the resulting clean interiors of our boats mean less maintenance, fewer casting snags, and a neater, longer-lasting boat.
In addition, we include easy-to-follow instructions especially for beginners, material listings, and fastening schedules - NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE! Plywood panels are next laid onto this framework, marked around their perimeters, cut to shape, then glued and screwed back in place. Although construction time will vary depending on a builder’s tools, experience, and conditions, reports over the years indicate that 100 man-hours is a reasonable "ball-park" approximation of required building time for most.

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