Anyone have and drawings or plans for a heavy duty outboard trolley or stand that could be used for servicing a 70hp outboard? If it is to be used much as a trolley then reposition the nearest wheels make them much larger and also fit a handle so that it can be used like a sack truck. I would like to build a couple of engine stands capable of holding a 400 pound V6 outboard with a 25" leg. The Harbor Freight ones can certainly support the weight, and the price is right, but they are not high enough off the ground to hold even a 20" outboard with the gearcase still attached.
Yeah, go to Autozone and pick one up for $40, probably the same amount you'd be spending on wood to make one. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi A boat a motor and a trailer This summer I started building a homemade wooden boat from my own design. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi Trailer This is the trailer ready to set the boat on upside down and backwards for fiberglassing hope to get that done this weekend so I can move it around.
Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi The Boat Got the boat on the trailer and into the shop. Can somebody tell me what type and weight oil to use in the bottom unit of an outboard motor one of my motors is stamped use hypoid oil, what ever that is. Location: La Florida I found these interesting links on the teardrops and tiny trailers forum. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi Need help to ID this motor This is another motor I got free from the junkyard. Location: La Florida Dave T, I still haven't located the props but I'll not forget you. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi Update on boat Ready to put the last coat of epoxy on the bottom side of my boat and then it will be ready for paint. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi Painting the boat Got the fiberglass finished on the bottom of the boat and I am now ready for paint.

Location: Eustis, FL Regular topside paint will work just fine if the boat doesn't spend more then a weekend at a time in the water between dry out cycles. Location: Anamosa Iowa and North Buena Vista on the Mississippi Update on the boat Got the bottom of my boat primed and painted mixed my own paint by using an oil base enamel mixed 75% paint to 25% high gloss urethane. Location: La Florida Prop pitch is the distance the propeller would move forward in one revolution, assuming no slip, just as you said.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Welding is not a problem, and I don't need it to fold up or anything just something that will let me work on it over the next few months. Already tagged Building a boat motor stand for outboard motors footfall away footfall and DIY Boat Propeller role five The. I finished the main wood part of the boat late September, it was going to get too cold to do the fiberglassing outside so I had to put the boat on hold for awhile. Menards has bottom paint for about 36 bucks a quart but I'm concerned about how long it's been sitting on their shelf. I was reading one of my old boat building magazines and it says you don't need expensive bottom paint if the boat is not left in the water for an extended time it says that any good oil base enamel will work just as good as long as the surface is prepared correctly and it bonds to the surface. From my testing it makes a real hard surface and smooths out real nice I used a 4" roller to apply 3 coats I'll let you know how it works out after being in the water for awhile next summer. No problem with fumes and this is probably the best time of year to do this with heat in the shop I don't have to worry about humidity.
It states that bottom paint contains poisons that make it dangerous to apply and it's not good for the environment. The costly LPU's will tolerate this treatment the best, while just below this durability and a good bit cheaper are the single part polyurethanes, like Brightsides.
This said, a weekend is a long soak for these paints, so let the boat dry good before you do it again (at least a week).

My boat will most likely be in the water for a weekend and then will be on the trailer for 1 to 2 weeks. 2 Building a unproblematic Boat Motor Standby Adventure Outdoorz Featured How to Make a WeedWacker outboard motor stand homemade.
I will do the fiberglassing in the shop this Winter if the fumes from epoxy aren't too bad, I haven't worked with epoxy resin yet. I'm hoping to make maiden voyage April 15th the 100th anniversary of the Titanic sinking.Their telling me the ice probably wont be out of the river by then.
If you want a flat or semi gloss finish, then use a wet sand technique over high gloss after it's well cured (a month for most paints a few days for LPU's).
Is there any way to tell what pitch a prop is by measuring the angle of the blades or any other way. I knew the next thing I would need would be a trailer to move the boat in and out of my shop. I'm assuming that prop pitch is the distance the boat would move with one revolution of the prop with no slip much like the pitch of a screw?
Do you own an outboard motor seance on the floor of your garage looking at for a simple way to change oils winterize it and surgery store it for winter. For the motor I decided on an outboard converted to an 11 horse Briggs for more info and fotos on this check my post in DIY marinizing [11 horse Briggs outboard conversion]. I just got another larger outboard for free that I'll need help I plan on using an 18 horse Briggs on this one I'll post some pictures and numbers as soon as I get time.

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