Octagonal electrical boxes hold the frame together; insert setscrew connectors and tighten the locknuts. Tools: pencil, slip-joint pliers, rented conduit bender, scratch awl or grease pencil, hacksaw, screwdriver, staple gun, measuring rule, scissors or sharp utility knife. To cover the boat, buy a heavy plastic tarp, at least 5 feet longer than the boat and at least 3 times as wide. Before you start work, plan the assembly of the cover frame, and sketch your plan so you can refer to it as you work.
Prepare the electrical boxes by removing the knockout plugs on the sides of the boxes; strike them sharply with the handle of a slip-joint pliers and then twist the tabs off with the jaws of the pliers. Hold the assembled but not secured support over the boat, straddling the boat at a center support point so that the angled-out legs touch the edges of the boat. Repeat this procedure to place and cut each support leg, setting legs at the ends of the boat and every 3 feet along its length.
When all the support legs have been bent and cut, cut 3-foot sections of conduit to form a connecting ridgepole from support leg to support leg. The completed frame is braced on the deck; tape tie-down tabs hold the plastic cover to the boat trailer. To complete the framework, add three to six snow support posts, depending on the snow load in your area and the deck or cockpit you're working over.
With the completed frame in place over the boat, spread a heavy plastic tarp over the frame to cover it entirely. To secure the tarp over the framework, attach a tab of duct tape every 2 to 3 feet around the boat.
Attach the tarp to the boat trailer with sturdy cord, cut as needed and looped securely through the duct tape tabs.
Location: Haines and Juneau Hatch cover build I was recently asked to build a set of hatch covers, and thought it would be a nice idea to take a few pics along the way. 4) Next I'll use this pre cut coaming piece to secure and align the longer section as I hot glue it in place.
7) Next comes a nice even coat of PVA sprayed on using a small touch-up gun with a 1.0 nozzle.
10) Since this is going to a foam cored hatch I'll precut and dry fit the interior layup and the foam core. Location: Haines and Juneau Part 3 Once the hatch cover is demolded and trimmed I like fitting them to the coaming on the boat, just to make sure everything is going to work like it's supposed to. Location: portsmouth england thats exactly the same way as i make all my hatch covers. Only I didn't gelcoat the mold, i decided to just spray afterwards and sand it out and polish. Location: Haines and Juneau I'm sure there's more then one way to skin this cat when it comes to building a one off mold set. Applying the gelcoat to interior of the mold serves two purposes, one it helps eliminate the pin holes you get with just a straight matte layup, and two it serves as my base coat for future gelcoat surfaces that I'll be applying.
I've got an old ES dump gun, but no cups, so I use modified HVLP guns or modified texture spraying guns to spray my gelcoat.
Location: portsmouth england heres a couple pics of my gutter moulds before i flattened them off and polished them up.

Originally Posted by garrybull heres a couple pics of my gutter moulds before i flattened them off and polished them up. Originally Posted by midnitmike I really like the idea of using a gutter mold, it certainly makes for a nice flush deck arrangement. Location: portsmouth england heres the pics of the hatches all fitted and the deck gel gritted over. Location: Haines and Juneau How about unwrapping that center console and posting a few pics of it as well. Originally Posted by midnitmike How about unwrapping that center console and posting a few pics of it as well. Air voids in outer lamenent » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post What was used on this engine cover?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. To accomplish this, I drilled a hole in the center of the cover, then drove a screw through it into the table of the router. To accomplish this, I bolted a hunk of MDF to an arbor and then wrapped the MDF with sand paper and stapled it to the sides. After a bit of finish machining and polishing as well as drilling the vent holes, the cover came out perfect! Space arched cover support legs over the boat at each end of the boat and every 3 feet along its length; connect the supports with a ridgepole. Insert a thinwall setscrew connector into each side opening of each junction box and tighten the locknuts firmly with the pliers. Insert a section of conduit into the conduit bender and align it with the edge of the bender; then make a 135-degree bend in the pipe -- 45 degrees out from a right angle -- as directed by the rental agent.
Adjust the support to the desired height over the boat and have your assistant mark the deck intersection point with a scratch awl or grease pencil. The supports at the center of the boat will be higher than the supports at bow and stern, forming a pitched cover to shed snow and rain. Assemble the conduit frame by connecting the support sections with 3-foot ridge sections; tighten the setscrews holding the connecting sections in place. At each support point, where the support legs and the ridge sections are connected at the sides of an electrical box, measure the distance from the bottom of the box to the deck or cockpit directly below it.
The tarp must extend at least 1 foot past the deck all around; if the boat is any color but white, cover the entire hull, if possible, to prevent fading. Be careful to fasten the cover down securely, with no loose or flapping edges; strong wind could damage a poorly secured tarp.
Because there are a number of pictures detailing the steps in this build I'm going to use thumbnails of them instead of the larger shots so they don't slow down reading of the thread. These two coaming will be used for all three hatch covers, so they're well braced with a few extra tabs. Eventually I came up with a workable solution and a viable radius, so I went ahead with the build. This by far the smallest gun I've ever used for spraying PVA, but I was amazed at how much PVA it delivered and how well it worked.
My procedure is to roll out a layer of gelcoat, sprinkle a bit of non-skid onto the surface, and then roll on a bit more gelcoat to even out the grit and give it a nice even look.

Sorry these are going to be very newbie questions but i had to reply as I was googling this topic some months ago.
That's mainly because i'm comfortable spraying after the fact and have never shot gelcoat yet in a mold. In my case I have three hatch covers to make and each of them are of slightly different measurements.
The cheapo plastic cover just couldn't handle the constant foot trafic so I'll be casting this part from aluminum.
Brace the framework firmly with three to six support posts holding the top of the frame above the boat's deck. Cut the conduit legs at these points with a hacksaw; then reinsert the legs into the electrical boxes and firmly tighten the setscrews to hold them in place. Set each pair of support legs in order as you work so that you'll be able to assemble the frame in sequence.
At this point the frame will be a long tent-shaped skeleton that covers the length and width of the boat exactly. Pad the top corners of the frame and cover the electrical boxes with pieces of scrap carpeting, wrapped around and stapled together with a staple gun and heavy-duty staples. Cut a section of conduit to the measured distance and connect it to the bottom opening of the box with a setscrew connector, forming an upright brace inside the framework. Stick 4 inches of one end of the tape to the outside of the plastic tarp and fold the tape over on itself to stick 4 inches at the other end to the inside, with a double 2-inch-long tab of tape sticking out beyond the edge of the plastic.
There is no doubt in my mind this is going to be my favorite gun for all of my future PVA work. That means I need to be able to easily deconstruct and re-use the first mold in order to make the next two. I've just gotten used to the idea that I'll be sanding the exterior surface, fixing any minor imperfections, and applying a couple layers of gelcoat before it's done.
You'll need sections for the support legs of the cover frame, for the ridgepole, and for snow support posts.
Insert two sections of conduit at the bent ends into the openings on opposite sides of an electrical box, making an angular tent shape; don't tighten the setscrews yet.
That's one of the reasons you see so much painters tape, on the table, and on the coaming stock edges. Divide the length of the boat by 3 and multiply by 2; this is the number of sections needed for the support legs.
Add 3 to 6 sections for snow support posts at the ridge-leg intersections, depending on how much snow falls in your area. Rent a thinwall conduit bender to simplify the frame assembly; get instructions from the rental agent.
My table is on rollers, so I can if need be, move it outside the door to spray and then back inside next to the heater to aid in the curing.

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