Be inspired by the Museum’s collection, develop practical skills and make a mini powered motor boat for a dream voyage. When my son was 3 years old, I made a small bathtub boat with him, using scrap wood and a piece of dowel. Here’s the result of our experimentation: a simple and worthy pond sailer that’s rigged and scaled like a real yacht. Send us feedback on our site design, bugs, story ideas, maker community events and any other share-worthy thoughts.
Richmond Fibreglass are a team of experienced boat builders and composite production engineers and have developed this single seater mini boat as a fun, safe and very stable take anywhere boat for all ages. These awesome boats are a great type of personal mini boat that are extemely exciting yet very safe to use. These boats are fibreglass construction with the seat and bulkhead moulded into the hull and the deck glass taped on top. They are great for racing or for recreational use and can be used with an outboard on the lakes, estuaries and in the sea or install a jet unit to explore the rivers and estuaries with friends and their Ballistic mini boats.
It lasted much longer and got more of his attention than any dollar-store bath toy, and about six years later we decided to try building a larger boat for the pool and local ponds we fished. We have built and tested these boats with a 25hp outboard motor and a 650cc jet ski engine. While waiting for more hovercraft parts it seemed like a good idea as the parts to build this simple craft were lying about.  The mini air boat is powered by a direct drive 10hp engine on a 42 inch prop.

Following the plan, measure and mark the mast, jib boom, and mainsail boom lengths on the ?" dowel. Not so well in deep water with a 97kg driver.  With a lighter driver it would plane out nicely at any depth. Trace the hull from the printed pattern onto the top and 2 ends of the cedar block; cut templates or use carbon paper.
Draw the keel and masthead crane patterns on the brass strips, and draw the bowser (rigging clip) pattern 8 times on the thin plastic.Cut and drill all the parts. Any fine-tooth saw will cut the dowel, or you can roll it under an X-Acto blade and snap the score. Bottom is covered in two layers of Epoxy to make it as slippery as possible as strong as possible and resistant to scratching. Heavy-duty shears or a hacksaw will cut the brass; be sure to file away the sharp edges afterward.
You can saw or file down the hull’s shape, then use a hobby knife or thin chisel to excavate the slot for the keel.
Drill all holes, plus pilot holes for the screw eyes (in the hull, just poke pilot holes in by hand with a thumbtack).Finally, file, sand, and smooth all parts. Wearing gloves, and in a well ventilated location, mix and spread some 5-minute epoxy into the slot using a scrap stick or wooden match.Slide the keel into position and hold it there while the epoxy cures.
Apply a first coat of paint or varnish, and re-sand with 180-grit before each subsequent coat.For a stained deck, first paint the hull upside down, then re-sand the top perimeter to remove any overspray.

Rub stain into the deck and edge, let dry, and coat with varnish or polyurethane.For the mast and boom pieces, bevel the cut edges for a more finished look, then sand with fine grit to remove any fuzz.
Once that’s secure, follow the plan to install all screw eyes: 4 to the mast, 1 on the fore end of each boom, 1 more on the mainsail boom (for the boom vang), and 4 to the deck. This forms the gooseneck, the joint that lets the boom swing from side to side (far left in the photo). Lay the boat on its side on a hard surface with the masts and booms in place and fit the sails to the areas for rigging. Knot and cut a short length of dacron line, thread it through a bowser, and string the boom vang.
You’ll need about 10" for the top of the jib sail, which threads through 2 eyelets before tying off to the uphaul bowser.Referring to the plans, tie the 4 lower connections on the booms first, and then add the upper lines for tension, so there are no wrinkles in the sails along the booms. The sheets let you adjust the angle (trim) of the sails — slack for downwind sailing or tight for crosswind — letting you cross a pond or pool in any direction that isn’t too close to directly upwind.

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