With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. Learning from the mistakes I made in my first attempts I researched Valves with no moving parts and found two. A Thrust augmentor is placed a short distance after the exhaust directly inline with the opening. I built this boat to test the thrust augmentor and was very short on time so the hull is rather crude but it does the job. The Thrust augmentor was much heavier than required manufactured out of 1" plastic bar on a Lathe. The engine was pushed throught the hole in the foam and secured on the underneath with duct tape as I was in a rush. As the fluid is forced out of the exhaust it enters the opening to the thrust augmentor draging in surrounding fluid from the local environment as it does so. At this point the pulse jet sucks in and this creates toroidal vortices in the augmentors diverging section which expand to the walls of the augmentor and travel along as fluid pistons, pushing fresh fluid infront and pulling in fresh fluid behind. This means the fluid traveling down the augmentor has significant inertia capable of resisting the sucking action of the engine thus the intake fluid must come from else where. This means that all of the work done by the engine should be used to move the boat forwards ultimately increasing overall thrust and hence the boats velocity.
My idea was to make a trial with a water jet vacuum pump, that is not the original augmentor theory. I'm wondering how the project is going and if I missed a message or you got bogged down on your move etc.
Araldite degrades above about 100 C, in the presence of water, so solder should make a better joint.
The slow setting J-B Weld epoxy has a higher max temperature rating (600 deg F per the package) than the quick set epoxys. Did you test the boat both with and without the augmentor to compare total thrust generated and boat speed in water? I intend to, though the boat needs a new hull and the engine re-sealing and I have my finals in a month. I put it in the chuck holder (like a three jaw on a Lathe) on the milling machine and inclined it at an angle. Model Engineer magazine: The January 5, 1996 issue of Model Engineer has an article by Derek Pratt on how to make the diaphragm-type boat. Soldering: I have some rosin-core solder, and at the advice of the fellows at the hardware store, an additional tin of flux.
Turns out that soldering two flat pieces is a piece of cake, compared to soldering bent and shaped pieces. In this context, tinning is precoating two surfaces with a thin coat of solder before assembling the joint and flowing solder into it.
I would recemend folding the edges together before soldering,its something like how thay put the tops on tin cans. A basic sheet metal book could be very usefull,basic metal work can be very usefull in woodworking too. I have temporarily given up on the noise-making boiler and have finished the simpler model. Part 10-World's Loudest Steam Punk Putt Putt Boat has 4 engines and 5 noise making diaphragms. If your next question is "why doesn't the boat oscillate backwards and forwards due to this push-pull effect?" try blowing a candle out and then try sucking a candle out and you will see the blow is fairly directional but the suck is not. I cannot answer comments from people who have blocked replies, so if you don't get a reply to your question that may be the reason.


The Tesla Valvular Conduite, uses the coanda effect to restrict the flow of liquid down a conduit in one direction. The shape and possition of the thrust augmentor mean that the intake comes from the front of the boat and in effect, sucks it forwards.
Bit disappointing as the car is faster than that but we entered every event so we did better than most years. If I where to make another I would not have those facilities at my disposal so I would have to develop a new fabrication method and make two so that they are identical.
I've only ever made coke can-diaphragm pop pops but am hoping to use brass tubing on future models. Dependant on the specific type Epoxy resins such as Araldite start to fail just over 100 C, Specifically between 120 and 180 C. The goal is to get the liquid solder to flow into the whole joint and the plan is that this will happen easier with precoated surfaces than with bare metal, however well cleaned and fluxed.
Once you see how the basics are done you can start to understand how lead or copper roofs are put on out door perjects or aluminum sideing is installed on your house. Instead of the simpler, coil-type boiler, I tried to make the noise-making, diaphragm-type. A quick trip to the supermarket showed that manufacturers don't use this type of lid anymore!
Para reproducir la musica que tendra que actualizar su navegador o actualizar el Plugin de Flash. The steam has a greater volume than the water so it pushes out of the boiler and down the tube.
It is probably worth reading my video description first because the answer may already be there.
In addition, its swirl also appears to act as a rotary pump, drawing even more fluid with it. The geometry and relative sizes potentially make the difference between this doubling or halfing the speed. The problems with the engine you propose to build are that it will be very low power and a type that is difficult to run at consistent power.
The boat engine is relatively low frequency and the boat itself is very light weight, essentially the engine plus a few grams of foam. For possible lower brazing temps than bronze rods, two pack nickel silver brazing rods are available at the Adavance Auto parts store for ~$5.
I apologise, I have never heard that turn of phrase before, I assumed you where comparing the boat to a cat which made no sense to me for fairly obvious reasons. In the tube it cools, condenses and contracts so it is drawn back into the boiler and the process repeats. If you need a reply make sure your Google+ privacy settings allow replies from users that are not in your circles or add me to your circles first. 40-50cm long is a bit big for my testing facilities which are yet to be assigned so I am thinking a maximum of 30cm. It is however on an invitation only private forum that I belong to and if it works I will copy and paste it below.
I am tempted to hypothesis that the higher the frequency the less difference it makes in sucking the boat back because of it's momentum.
The shuttle is caused by the boat moving back and forth rather than the water in the pipes moving hence low thrust.
The action of the steam pushing into the tube pushes the existing water in the tube out the back and that drives the boat forwards. I like to keep my work as simple and basic as possible so that it can be copied easily and improved by anybody who wants to try themselves.


Single tube engines are also very hard to fill though injecting the water through a small tube that can reach the closed end of the engine or using a bleeder valve will work. In fact in the latter document there is a diagram that describes a little as to why the thrust augmenter works. The lighter the boat, and, the larger the pipes, and, the lower the hertz are all contributing factors. 260C will be plenty for pop pop boats I'd imagine but as you suggest I think brazing would be a much more appropriate solution. The steam condensing and contracting draws water back into the tube ready for the next push.
I recycle or repurpose items rather than buy new and when I do buy I like to keep it cheap.
Go to pop pop and then to Jean-Yves pages for a lot of good information that I have applied extensively in building my boats and engines.
It'll be a while until I get round to my next engine though as I am currently rather busy but when I do I think brazing is the way forward. Due to the size of the device I decided against that method as my engineering department doesn't have a roller small enough to my knowledge and welding would have been tricky with the thin metal and dodgy angles.
Reasonably good compromises are available as you can see from the performances in my videos.
The JB weld should only increase in temperature only via conduction through the boiler skin. We are continually trying to make contact with people who are interested in putt putt engines and boats and creating a library of information that is available to all. The Unofficial Mamod and Other Steam Forum have created a sticky thread that we hope will serve that purpose.
No rapid or clear, you want the grey opaque stuff that comes in two half kilogram paint tins that takes 48 hours to set. Hope you continue working on these engines as new innovative thinking might some day lead to real advances. I'm suggesting that the established retarding forces the intake entails can be minimised and re-directed to have less effect on the forward motion and, if done correctly, may even add to the propulsive forces. This is all explained by Newtons second and third laws of motion; force is equal to mass multiplied by its acceleration and every action has an equal and opposite reaction respectively.
Your Epoxy should be weighed when you measure it out to ensure you get equal amounts of each and should be mixed until it is of a consistent colour.
Do you happen to know any tried and tested dimensions for a single tube coil boat engine or any good geometries as this will be new territory for me and I'm short on development time? The increases in force and speed that I have achieved have come from listening to Jean-Yves and others, applying their knowledge and maximizing the design of the basic solid boiler pop pop engine. When I mentioned symmetry before I was referring to multi pipe engines where the pipe bends, lengths and ID's etc.
Silent is better for testing because it is more powerful, more consistent and the noise won't drive you crazy if testing is prolonged.
Sucking ahead has a negligible effect, and the related assumptions used in other documents are justified. Transversally the hull was kept at the centre of the tank by means of two slides (with a play of some millimeters). When the pump was energized, the vibrations got rid of the light permanent friction forces.



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