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The Birlinn is an interesting reconstruction, but I could never get my head around the twin tiller. I started the Sassafras Canoe at the WoodenBoat School in Brooklin, Maine under the tutelage of boat building instructor Bill Thomas. Unfortunately I had a very severe reaction to the epoxy and have not been able to finish the Sassafras Canoe for a few years. Once my boat building friend Ken Wallo retired, he found himself needing something to do and I was kind enough to offer (OK, maybe Beg) him to finish up the epoxy work so I could start on the paint and varnish to get the canoe finished. Once the epoxy work was done and had some time to dry outside in the warm weather I got to work on the varnish to seal up the epoxy as quick as possible. I gave the varnish work a few days to dry before flipping it and starting the painting of the bottom. Does anyone remember a photo of a double ended lapstrake sailboat, about 20'+ from a past thread? Herreshoff always (I believe) built his dinghy's lapstrake, Joel White took the shape of an Herreshoff dinghy and drew the Catspaw as a carvel built boat. I would if I could, But I just can't wrap my brain around how to do the picture posting thing.
Isn't the cover of Greg Rossel's 'Building Small Boats" a lapstrake version of the Catspaw. Iain Oughtred's PUFFIN was designed for lapstrake ply, but could probably be done in carvel planking.
Inger is originally from Norway, and as a youth was regularly rowing the families wooden clinker workboats to and fro the island her grandparents lived on. Sean grew up in southern California boating and fishing in his dad’s classic woody boats. Thanks Sean and Inger for taking time to do the interview – and best to you with your sail and canvas business and your beautiful boats.
You will be mentally prepared to build a nice boat – no surprise later on about the final cost of your boat.
Small kit boats are the most predictable to budget for since 80-90% of what you need is included in the kit.
If you build a good quality boat that will last, IT WILL COST MORE THAN YOU THINK (most likely). Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Simplified lapstrake Building Method I have been looking at an adaptation of a lapstrake design, see Zipper Seam Construction. When the planks are pulled together in this way, it acts like the stitches in stitch-and-glue construction: the planks bend and the hull forms to its finished shape as the seams are closed up. Location: Milwaukee, WI You are describing the traditional lapstrake building technique. Originally Posted by gonzo You are describing the traditional lapstrake building technique. Location: Milwaukee, WI Reading the start of the thread I notice that you say the planks won?t butt along the chines but overlap. Location: Milwaukee, WI I have repaired some Ian Oughtred's boats in England.

In that design those planks really bend at the bow, it must be difficult to get a close joint in that area. Location: Milwaukee, WI The tide came in and it pounded on a rocky beach for a couple of hours. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. If you do build your own boat - my advice - ALWAYS wear a respirator when working with epoxy, and never do it inside your house. I used Interlux Schooner Varnish on the bright work, wet sanding between every coat and rinsing and drying the woodwork by hand. In order to prevent the wet edge of the varnish to meet varnish that had partially dried and make that gummy coarse surface that results, I first worked the outer top plank, decks and rails.
Click HERE to subscribe to my email news list for the latest and greatest fun stuff and click on one of the buttons below to subscribe to my show. In that project I was trying to eliminate the relatively complex mold required for that method.
Stems and other stuff are added in the usual way, but I want to keep it simple at this stage in the discussion to get you opinions on this idea.
With that much of a lap width I would have expected to see bits of garboard veneer left behind.
Nice garboard patch BTW - will the next plank up be difficult, getting the lap to the next plank from the inside? It takes YEARS for the gasses to vent (Amines linger on surfaces and in wood and paper and furniture), and if you're sensitive it can make life very unpleasant. The way he filled the seams between the lapstrake planks was smoother than I was expecting and took very little sanding and filling afterwards.
I worked front to back, about 6" at a time, the switching to the opposite side trying to keep working with a wet surface, brushing towards the wet edge as I went. It's fast, paddles straight, and keeps gliding straight along with almost no wake once you get it going. I want to build a community of people from all over the world who want to connect, learn, share stories and photos, and have fun with wooden boats. The planks are then pulled together with several elastic straps from gunnel to gunnel on the outside face of the planks. In this case, instead of the plank edges butting along the chines, they will overlap with the lower plank butting against the staples. I noticed a pencil line on the patch; I assume it's for the lap but it seems wider than the original. It rides wind driven chop very well and the watertight bulkheads give you plenty of confidence that no mater what happens you won't sink. Pic shows what I consider to be an obviously carvel planked model, but the descriptio reads lapstrake. My mother, who has zero building experience and not a ton of strength, demonstrated the coolest demeanor I've ever seen while smoothing in hot frames.
I would REALLY appreciate you sending me wooden boats pics, stories, or projects you are working on. The unglued hull will be a bit floppy so a center station mold will still be required in all probability.

No stitches - the pressure of the binding holds the planks together, and the staples avoid cutting rabbets in thin ply. WoodenBoat is an awesome place, with an ideal location, great staff, very good food (and lots of it), and simple clean accommodations for those boarding on site (which I'd thoroughly recommend).
Working from the bulkhead, then on to the planks moving about 6" at a time and using a hand drop light to make sure I wasn't missing any areas. It dries very quickly, but it is blue and it does seem to bleed through till you get a second coat of primer over it. We sewed up the planks, clamped them at each end, then flipped them over and glued the seams.
The rails were just high enough off the sides of the hull that he was able to fit and recess the decks, and plane the rails to finely blend with the deck surfaces. It's hard not to miss spots if you don't have a good light source to reveal reflections from wet varnish or the lack of it. With both primer and gloss I worked from front to back keeping the edge of the paint wet as best I could using a good quality 2" brush. They started with keel and stems, then added the stems befre inseerting ribs and other internal structure. It may be better to brush unthickened epoxy into the gap first then top up with the thickened stuff. I can cut rabbets or gains as Iain Oughtred shows in his book, which is the usual way and not too hard.
Although the CLC recommends all of the outer planks be painted, I opted to keep the top plank bright.
I used a fine auto body scratch filler to fill in the light scratch marks as I sanded between each coat.
Iain Oughtred illustrates this in his Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual, but he first cuts a bevel along the edge of the lower plank and applies glue to that. Or I can taper the lap width to zero approaching the stem but that will require extra reinforcement of the joint; that will be OK if the decks hide it! There are some areas at the bow and stern where I sanded that the darker parts of the plywood show through but it still looks great.
Again I wet sanded between coats and wiped the surface down with paper towels dampened with mineral spirits before painting. In the lap-stitch method developed by Chesapeake Light Craft the laps are stitched dry and epoxy poured in as I propose. After every coat I pulled all the masking tape so that the wet edges would dry to a smooth rather than sharp jagged edge.
Currently I am trying to figure out if a twisted scarf joint can be arranged between 2 planks but it sounds complicated.

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