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By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder. This is the price (excluding shipping and handling fees) this seller has provided at which the seller has sold the same item, or one that is virtually identical to it, in the recent past. International Shipping - items may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value. Your country's customs office can offer more details, or visit eBay's page on international trade. Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. 3" LED Dome Light - Titanium - Genco Marine Limited You cannot place a new order from your country. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution, NonCommercial, NoDerivs 2.5 License. Switching Gizmo's interior lighting to LEDs seems like a no-brainer, especially given the horridly inefficient incandescent lighting she came with.
Other outlets where I've found good LED replacement bulbs and fixtures are Sailor Sam's and Marine Beam -- which now has fluorescent tube substitutes (hurray!) -- and I'm sure there are many others (your favorites?). At any rate, none of these bulbs demonstrated serious issues and won't be installed very near antennas anyway, or on the same circuit as fixed radios.
Alpenglow seems like a great little company and their new broad beam reading light with separate dimming control sounds like they've come to the same conclusion I have. I was helping on a delivery of a Gulfstar 50 last November from Long Island to Puerto Rico; seas were rough, and virtually ALL of the Sensibulbs fell out of the reading lights. In each case I was assured the bulbs selected for marine use would not cause RFI problems, neither with the VHF, navigation, or entertainment systems.
Great point Ben, and EXACTLY why LED replacement bulbs should not be used in incandescent navigation fixtures. The anchor light is another obvious one, but what about navigation lights on a power vessel that are only on when the engine is running? Perhaps someone smarter than I can come up with a formula to calculate cost of the bulb vs energy saved, vs increased bulb longevity, but meanwhile a decision on which fixtures to convert is purely subjective. Two years ago we changed about one third of the bulbs on our trawler to LED, a decision that we have never regretted. Patrick - While Ben did have the undesirable disco ball effect, I have had good results on all my lights, all of which have either simple clear lenses or white diffusers. Rick R - Sounds like your lucky with that rope light (pun intended), but if you used an inverter to get the 120VAC, that would be a problem for most of us.
Dan, the rope light is not connected through an inverter, but is wired directly into the 12V system. I called Alpenglow yesterday and found out you can send in your old Alpenglow compact florescent fixtures and have them converted to the new LED's.
I used MarineBeam bulbs in the CRI90 variety throughout my boat and am very pleased with the results. I am on a sailboat and often live on the hook for several months at a time so LEDs and power consumption have been near and dear to my heart for quite some time.
Most LED bulbs are designed to last a lot longer than the traditional incandescent bulbs they are replacing. I'm hoping that both these fixtures will be examples of my theory that LEDs can not only be more energy efficient but also better lighting for our boats. I learned the hard way that light color changes from one manufacturing batch to the next by a significant amount (or human eyes are super sensitive to small differences when displayed side-by-side).

Ben mentioned that he couldn't find pricing on the Prebit D2-3 nice looking light that he found.
Here's a link to a German web retailer (different to the one Henning provided - this has pricing listed). Because the energy saving was so huge, and the light output much greater, we found that we have significantly more light available for about 10% of the power usage of the old incandescents. Re your concept for perfect lighting, and a little tangential to the lighting topic: We've actually achieved some of your perfect lighting concept through totally re-wiring our yacht with BEP's C-zone power switching over an N2K network. I haven't finished installing it yet (it's a total re-wire project that was badly needed, so it's taking a while - actually the "un-wiring" of the existing systems is the harder part), but it does enable a lot of the things you mention (although I don't think I've yet discovered all of the possibilities). Anyway, we aren't implementing all of the above, but it's all software programmable, so we can introduce new things as we become more comfortable with the system.
We've implemented it on a separate N2K network with bridging to our instrument network to share data, and that seems to work well.
It does save in cabling (and huge wire clutter savings), but if you're implementing it yourself, you need to be technically savvy, and it is a steep learning curve. Don't know if you can do anything with Bluetooth, but I wouldn't be surprised if you could.
The "KISS" guys will no-doubt shake their heads and mutter into their overly long beards filled with granola, but I actually think that this system is simpler than traditional wiring, and would add value whether you have 10 circuits or 1000.
So I sound a bit like an advert for BEP (now Navico owned), but I've got to say that the increased capabilities provided by these distributed power systems answer many previous dreams (I know, sad to be dreaming about boat electrical systems - oh well). For US orders, we ship all orders for FREE with USPS First Class mail up to 13 ounces which takes 1-3 business days. You have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab.
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But why settle for just a replacement of your current boat lighting when it seems quite possible to have well balanced LED lighting that's very bright when you need it while still dimming down to almost invisible? Consider nine 1 watt LEDs producing 670 warm white lumens -- more than three times the 200 lumens claimed by the LIET3 -- with infinite dimming via an internal soft switch and secondary red lighting if you want it.
But this is another reason to shop for quality LED technology, or at least check out the inexpensive stuff carefully.
A high end amp draw of .7 amps suggests that it's quite bright, though I'd like a lumen rating too, and a photo of the LED set up.
The light pattern will not be the same at all, and even if it appears brighter the long-range visibility throughout the required ranges WILL be affected.
Anyone looking for marine LED lights should look at the low voltage garden lights sold by many of the big box stores.
Putting a value on the reduced generator time is much more difficult, and depends not just the cost of running the generator, but on the annoyance factor. Since they will often have a life expectancy in the 10s of thousands of hours I usually cut out the socket from the light fixture and make a mechanical connection (crimps or solder).
After all the raves, and some serious perusal of the AlpenGlow site, I just purchased one of their overhead dual level LED models with dual level red night lighting too.
They're rated 400-600 lumens max with nine 1 watt LEDs and they sent an interior picture of an older model that looked neatly done.
The cool part is that when turning it off in a partly dimmed state, it comes back on at that same state.
My flush mount overhead lights gave no problems with light patterns as there is no diffuser just a whiteish sandblasted (frosted) glass cover which works well.
So when converting several lights of the same type in the same space, make sure to buy all LEDs from the same batch and buy a spare in case you need it a year from now as no amount of searching and trying will get you the same color again and the perceived difference in color is huge. It is most lovingly built from polished stainless steel and not at all excessively priced considering the amount of labor that must have gone into it. The D2-3 in warm white is Euro 237 (about US$310), but that includes the 20% VAT (that's like sales tax for those who don't know). Also, because we're now not so worried about leaving lights on (as Jen Brett also said), we decided to add fixtures to give us more flexibility. I've lost count of the number of times I've spent hours trying to track down an electrical fault in the old wiring because not all the wires are labelled, and the rat's nest is tangled so I've had to finger trace each power and earth wire, and then one of the wires ends up going absolutely nowhere.
And don't ask about cost yet - I'll add it up at the end but am taking a "don't look, can't cause a heart attack" approach right now because you either do it, or don't - you can't be half pregnant.

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Newer and bigger boats with their multiple recessed fixtures and ganged dimming (good selection at Yachtlights) are already going in that direction but I've yet to find an easily sourced switched fixture that does what's possible.
However, I can't find any source for these fixtures online, and they may be way too expensive anyway.
When I put a handheld VHF running a weather channel next to the test LED bulbs, I can occasionally hear a slight increase in static, but if the signal is really faint, it can go away altogether because the interference has kicked in the squelch. The purchasing process including some consulting from the owner who took my requirements and picked out bulbs for each fixture. I can also see this kind of concept as reducing the amount of copper wiring in future sailboats, by having fewer lighting circuits (Breeze Pleeze has about a dozen including 4 breakers, and behind some breakers having two or three switches in each cabin and the saloon). Salon and galley lights are obvious candidates for conversion to LED, but what about closet lights that are on for only a few minutes per day? Think of the savings as Ahr (Amp-Hours), Volts x Amps x 1 hour, that can be used instead for some other creature comfort, new electronics you learn about on Panbo, or just fewer hours of droning engine or generator noise making replacing used Ahr. The Alpenglow quality and service has been outstanding so I expect the LED lights to be the same. You can get some very nice high end looking light fixtures on your boat for very little money.
I wire all of the lights through the individual switches and then back to a master switch for the entire cabin. Also, each circuit has a back-up physical fuse and manual switch which can be brought into play if the electronic controls go down.
You will receive a confirmation mail from us which includes tracking ID for your shipment once they leave our warehouse. In other words, interference can sometimes be heard but other times cause actual traffic not to be heard. Oh yea, not only use bluetooth to control the lights from my android or iThings, but also have the fixtures report back their current status (e.g.
Then that savings becomes priceless, unless you have the means to upgrade your electrical system. For the reading lights with a 2 prong (M16) type connector I use a dab of 3M 4200 to hold it in place and keep it from beating out when in rough seas.
That way you can set up the lighting for however you like it and then turn off and on the main cabin switch to control all of the lights.
We consider these lights to be one of the best, most useful upgrades we've done to our boat yet. However, the CFC is great, and uses about the same power as the new LED (about 0.1A more for the same lumen output and same colour temperature), so I don't see a reason to change at this point. The kit also has the internal voltage control -- 10 to 28 volts -- that seems characteristic of better LEDs. For example in each fixture I designated if my priority was saving power or getting an even brighter fixture. For example, the energy savings by LED lights for one night can power a laptop computer and internet access for a good many hours. Since we live aboard, we use the lights all the time, and since we live on the hook for part of the year, the power savings has been great (we don't panic if we accidentally leave a light on when we leave the boat). But I didn't anticipate how that single extra bright pinpoint LED would interact with the diamond-pattern glass lens on my particular dome lights; the net effect is like disco lighting! I'll find some obscure spot for this LED and will still be glad for the power saving every time I use it, but the point is that you have to consider not only LED light output and color but also how the light is distributed. What you see below is a wooden lamp base sourced from a crafts outlet which I've hollowed out further to accomodate a LIET3 Series fixture and a little control for its built-in 1-10v dimming also supplied by the good folks at OceanLED (Liet's corporate sibling). This setup tested very well in my dark lab against the other bulbs discussed, particularly the 3 Watt reading light with its similar specs. Home > Electrical>Cabin Lighting>3" LED Dome Light - Titanium3" LED Dome Light - Titanium View full size Share on Facebook! LED is also the source of that hard-to-find $40 Edison screw base reading lamp replacement bulb seen top left in the upper photo, which is ruggedly built and works at least as well as the incandescent original, while drawing 3 Watts instead of 13.
Once I get the base painted white to match Gizmo's overhead, this assemblage will light the salon table nicely (though I wish I had the LIET6 with twice the lumens for those times when I need task lighting there).

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