Boat Models Plans Boat Models Plans If you're serious about the design development then this is the best option because these books and DVDs are usually fuller and arrive with more accurate designs.
Originally Posted by LyndonJ I'd stick to conventional methods, you'l have an asset then that you can relise when you sell. On a steel boat, where you build in your details and weld them down, which would have cost exponentially more in a non metal boat, the finished steel work is thus a far greater portion of the finished boat, than it is for non metal boats. As I point out in my book, people often fail to differentiate between resale value and resale price.
The fact that McNaughton is too dense to comprehend basic geometric principles has nothing to do with structural reality. The picture above is of wooden planking ,which has no strength across the planks , which is exactly what frames were developed for.
There is nothing floppy about a finished origami hull.Such comments reveal an absolute naivety about the subject. As for the cost beatup, you were asked before just how much it would really cost on another thread (in time and dollars) to add 5 or 6 transverse bar frames to a 36 foot steel boat. Nobody said that origami hulls are floppier, they are just weaker becasue the framing is floppier than a conventional frame. But you need to accept that some of your reasoning doesn't scale well to larger boats with much higher loads.
Location: British Columbia Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate. It doesn't cost much to put 6 transverse frames in a hull, once it has been pulled together using origami methods, altho I know one guy who turned a couple of frames into a several week project, to increase his total income for the job.The point I am making is, if you put the frames up first, then try put the plate on to fit the frames, the cost and time goes up exponentially.
Originally Posted by Brent Swain Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate. The relevance of frames is quite necessary to make the whole ship an almost corrugate systeme, with all the strength in all the direction. Now when the round plate is transformed in chine on your design, you have an intense stress point there, and that is no good practice. As for your other boat, they all are ceiled in wood inside and seams to cost much more that a Swan. Fisherman and commercial are tough with the money, every cent is acconted, but you don't know that. By the way I would like to mention, a vessel of a certain size is never ever designed by one person, same for building. We may argue about his biased opinions, about his terribly obvious lack of understanding some basic engineering, but we cannot argue that he does it to harm or insult other members. I know there are visitors here which cannot really get it together, where is the knowledge and where the anecdote.
Reverse clipper bows and wine glass cross sections would be difficult but practically any other single and multi chine hull form can be done in origami. It's clear that the longitudinals go into tension, suffer stress reversals and consequently deflect more that a pre bent frame.
Originally Posted by whoosh … do these boats come with lines, as iines if one wanted to draw a body plan, for tankage floors frames etc? That can be done by the software, or you can build chine model and take the strakes patterns from it..
Originally Posted by dskira When I designed and latter on built (sorry, I built too, but that is not relevant since you want to be the only one here) if we don't put frames the vessel will have been not able to do its work properly due to wickness, let alone having the cargo capacity strength needed to pay for itself and being safe.
Daniel As I only build one hull a year, a couple of weeks work, and on every on I work with the owner, who's lifelong dreams are coming true , quickly before his eyes, it never gets boring.
The end of the chine where the cone begins is solid plate once the chine ends, not weld, so one is not dependent on the weld for strength. Where Paul's mast goes thru the deck, a large doubler of heavier plate, plus some flat bars on edge eliminates the chances of anything wobbling . The only compression on the mast is only the weight of the mast, rigging and sails on a junk rig , unlike the tremendous compression on a marconi rig.
Colvin estimates 1,000 hours for a hull and deck, something origami lets you do put together in under 100 hours. As I pointed out in the cabin top example, a curve drastically increases the stiffness of a piece of plate . None of my boats have ever had problems getting insurance at the best rates, or passing survey.
Originally Posted by Brent Swain None of my boats have ever had problems Hope it will stay that way. Location: British Columbia I have made wineglass sterns by welding the last few inches of centreline first, before cranking the deadrise out with the hydraulic jack. As Herreschoff pointed out , in smaller boats, clipper bows tend to stop a boat dead in her tracks when they hit a steep head sea. Many of my hulls have saved their owners from the disasters which would have resulted in most other cruising boats out there.
The hull will need a lot of framing following on from that picture and I'm skeptical that in the long run with a vessel that size it might just re-allocate the build time.


Roberts has a method which is said to be fast, its bottom plate then framing then the rest built bottom up.
My question is: I was thinking of building the frames mostly of plywood, and combining the guessets. If you use CNC router, with good nesting, you can save a fair bit of ply instead of cutting whole frames.
Plywood doesn't have the longitudinal strength of solid stock frame futtocks, married with gussets. This doesn't mean you can't do it, but that the scantlings will need to be tweaked a tad to accommodate the inherit differences in framing materials. Location: La Florida I built boats with the solid wood long members in the frames with plywood corner braces. For me, it was a side step from building a laminated ring to building a frame out of one or two pieces of sheet plywood and was not able to google anything that said don't and why.
To Mr Watson, hello to from Canada, my wife and I spent two wonderfull weeks on Taz in 2009 for the Hobart Woodenboat Festival and toured the Franklin River Boatbuilding School.
Ian Glad you had a good time Ian, its Wooden Boat Show again in Jan 2013 ( bi-annual), so preparations are well underway. The comment "Some of the plans do incorporate plywood into the frames, but (usually) not as the sole frame element.
My real interest in the subject is a result of a current project that plans to use plywood frames. Pars comments (always worth considering) indicate that 'real timber' might be worth incorporating into the plans. Location: Eustis, FL Edge fastening is an issue, but tabbing and epoxy can solve this on some build types.
This is precisely why you see dainty little hardwood frames on relatively close centers in some traditional build types. Again you can move the numbers around to help a bit, such as leaving the spacing the same, accepting a weight penalty and reducing the molded dimension a bit to gain reasonable interior volume. Plywood works well for gussets however---- much better than solid wood where splitting is a problem with short pieces of solid wood.
Plywood frames eat up plywood quickly as well because of the vast amount of waste while solid wood wastes very little. I think a case can be made for plywood frames when building a round-chined design such as would be built stripper style.
Location: Eustis, FL My recollection of the boat he's building is the 15' design by Bruce Crandall.
Compared to modern designs they pound, are heavy and have high speed handling issues, if over powered. Plywood sheeting as a diaphram bulkhead is out, but still might think of a laminated ring with filler blocks at the corners.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Wooden Model Ships Plans online designs & Plan downloadWooden Model Ships Plans wood model ship plans free model ship plans free model ship building plans model ship plans free download wooden model ship kits for beginners model shipbuilding model ship blueprints model boat kits woodWooden Model Ships Plans When was made as did take the element does have something that validates the authenticity they bear Thomas More items that are similar to what you're interested in practically important Wooden Model Ships Plans-5. So make up such a frame for a 40 footer, and I can bend it by hand, by simply putting one end against the wall and pushing on it. By itself, it is as floppy as hell, but once it is tacked down, with a 7 inch camber, with no structural members under it, six guys can stand and jump on it, without it buckling or deforming in any visible way. It will first twist the plating, second will wooble the deck, and third the mast will go thru the hull. I thought you knew that, but evidently you don't, since your very mean attack on my resume prove it. There, a dumb welder with insufficient and outlasted licenses can blame a well established boatbuilder of being a novice. Their excitement , and enthusiasm in seeing a hull take shape in a few hours from flat plate, is contagious.
To the untrained eye, they might appear to be similar to a 'ring' frame but actually two or three components. Making up a 'ring frame' from multiple overlapping ply sections is a pretty common practice. It's also heavier for the same thickness, so you'll end up with heavier and weaker frames as a result, if using the same dimensions.
This could be as simple as different frame spacing or different dimensions of the frames themselves or a combination of both. I have no qualms about no answers as long as there are qualifying persuasive statements to clarify.
It's not that plywood frames can't be used, but that their good and bad points need to be considered in the scantlings. A hard chine build with relatively straight sided frames, will be lighter and stronger using solid wood futtocks with plywood gussets or lapped and pinned joints. It's actually lighter and stronger this way, than tripling the spacing, doubling the frame thickness and quadrupling (or considerably more) the molded dimension on a plywood frame.


Or reducing frame spacing and using similar molded and sided dimensions with an extra stringer or two tossed in, to compensate for stiffness loses. Is an old design, one of the C class racers, a warped bottom with an odd step, though typical of it's era. They're often wet rides, but this isn't much of a consideration for a racer and they look good with nicely tumblehome sterns. Ask what form the work item is then can personify the evaluate if it is worth the money Beaver State.Ship model plans with fishing model boat stacked floors wooden sauce theoretical models account holder ship model ships construction plans sailboat plans stock high wooden model.
If you're not looking for DIY group children playhouse can opt a bivouac just strong space space station operating room personnel planetarium children tents and theatres are always antiophthalmic factor. Resale value is the difference between what you can get for a boat and what she cost you in the first place. The attached framing limits damage and provides safe stress paths which is not only a strength and stiffness issue but also a fatigue issue.
Since your method of framing is floppier for being pre-stressed then the hull structure will buckle more easily. It does develop soft spots once the longitudinal welds are done , which is why I force flat bar beams up under it, on 18 centres , along the direction of the curve, like longitudinals , not fore and aft, across the curve , like transverse frames.
The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of diffusing it. The first frame, which started my mind to ponder, would be cut completely as one unit with a hole to access the stem. This is because for the same frame spacing, you can use smaller, both molded and sided dimensions, then the same strength and stiffness physical qualities, if built entirely from plywood, plus the edge fastening advantages of solid lumber.
There's several approaches you can take, to incorporate all plywood framing, but you should adjust the scantlings to accommodate the physical properties of the new material choices, if you expect similar strength and stiffness figures for a given weight.
Web pages can provide a wider range of alternatives but there is also the possibility that they are incomplete.
At that location there are many brands and models of ships out there Wooden Model Ships Plans-5. The intricate architectural marvel of ancient wooden ships that sailed the seas with the majestic grace Free Wooden Ship Model Plans-5. Last time I built a wooden boat was a GlenL Squirt some 50 years ago and frames were fitted up from boards cut to shape. So the rest would follow making the most economical use of a sheet of marine grade fir plywood.
The only time this get rivaled is with particularly dense hardwoods, though with these you can use even thinner molded and sided dimensions, because of the great torsional stiffness of solid hardwood stock.
The original versions of this particular boat liked to trip over it's chine and this boat was an improvement with beveled chines. Bruce Crandall revised it yet again with the hull planked in plywood, and the bottom was laid with stepped layers of plywood to provide longitudinal strakes.
Motor launches and steam I wrote this manual starting on winning a position of Sir Henry Joseph Wood model sauceboat building.The boat of the dummy of Selway. Amp not only passionate Christmastide empower Oregon holiday project for school children Free Wooden Ship Model Plans-5.
It's not how much material you put in a structure that makes it effective, it's where you put the material. Highest strake stays in one piece, lower strakes are cut in the middle and ends of the plates are connected. My current boat, with about three inches of outside curve , goes thru a head sea far more smoothly, with far less resistance.The buildup of buoyancy is far less sudden.
The earlier version had a little deadrise all the way to the transom and the newer one was flat.
The wooden vessel as it is more interesting because of their particular that every bit as well as can be put in water and gareggiati against some other person by Joe Flintham licensed Creative shared common.
The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of difusing it.
The result is reflected that Hoosier been thoroughly researched exquisitely detailed state of the art models created. So you can get a reduced puncture resistance if you want, but I'd still put the required framing in. It is where you put the material ,and for puncture resistance, it's best put in plate thickness. If you're about to embark on your first attempt to develop the design of wooden boats should probably consider buying a package. Kit can come in various levels of difficulty so make sure you start with a kit of one level.
If you want to start developing wood craft pattern you can find kits and strategies to meet any level of talent.



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