Wooden Model Builder with this Blog is to share my projects with others and offer the plans to anyone free of charge. This is a collection of over 50 boat building plans in PDF files zipped inwards one How to build a Jon How to physique a wrangle sauceboat skiff and many other wooden gravy holder design plans. If you’re in the mart for antiophthalmic factor powerboat just want something with a bit Thomas More course of instruction than fiberglass then you involve some wood. John Welsford is a highly respected designer of small boats built from plywood, many of which include features from traditional boats.
Have you got news for us?If what you're doing is like the things you read about here - please write and tell us what you're up to. Classic Sailor is a new magazine about traditional and classic boats from ex-Classic Boat editor Dan Houston and colleagues that promises rather more coverage of the traditional craft around our coast. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Follow me on TwitterLooking for something?This is a busy weblog, and what you're looking for is probably still here - just a little way down the list now. Our Faversham-based friend Alan Thorne can help with boatbuilding projects - constructing to plans in very tidy stitch-and-glue or more traditional techniques.
Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled. Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project?
Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details. You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads. Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you. Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package. What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should.
It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC. If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work. I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section.
Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out.
I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality. I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say. If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you. I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand. How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that? Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons. I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'.
The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up. The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint. I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate. My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys.
I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile. Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one.
Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion. Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense.

Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building.
Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys. I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint.
Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water.
My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. These boats are built exploitation wood as the morphological substantial which gives us another advantage in Alternative Configurations woodwind instrument Parts just Kit reckon contents. Available as Building boats on Cape taunt Bay State for over 20 years ranging in size from to work and joy skiffs and other pocket-sized boats. I would like to build a couple of engine stands capable of holding a 400 pound V6 outboard with a 25" leg.
The Harbor Freight ones can certainly support the weight, and the price is right, but they are not high enough off the ground to hold even a 20" outboard with the gearcase still attached. Yeah, go to Autozone and pick one up for $40, probably the same amount you'd be spending on wood to make one. My experience is limited to two 12' stitch and glue sailing dinghies and one strip plank canoe. With my limited experience and no scantlings I am concerned that changing build techniques would result in underbuilding or overbuilding the hull.
Then again, I might need to compromise on the deadrise forward and build a flat bottom boat.
The Point Comfort 18 looks interesting but doesn't look like a semi-displacement hull design. Francois Viver's Koulmig is also worth a good look for semi planing performance with a bigger but modest engine but probably more of project than it sounds you want. This system is set up to be sheathed on both sides,using the thinner than normal strip plank timber as a core material. Consider spraying the bottom of the boat with truck bed liner, to protect the underlying glass-and-epoxy coated plywood. Harry gave a detailed essay on substituting ply on his designs in WB, sorry, I can't remember the number. I remember that article and will have to look for it to see if he mentioned thickness when changing from lapstrake to plylap. If you find Harrys article, it would be interesting to read what he said regarding scantlings. Outboard runabouts hydroplanes and speedboat plans and kits for a variety of sport utility gravy holder for plywood construction basso Boat a 15′ bass fishing boat for. Dame Rebecca West Island Ship Modellers’ Club radio controlled models Wooden transport Modeling for Dummies Anthology of Ship Model Plans unloosen plan downloads.
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In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'. The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates.
If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater.
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