Wooden Boat Plans for Amateur Boatbuilders – Excellent Performance, Simple Construction, Step by Step Instructions Australia, USA, UK, Hungary, S. Fasteners in traditional construction are the ONLY way to go – whether metal or trunnel. But once moving over to glued construction there are certain advantages in eliminating the fasteners as far as possible.
In general if using modern methods I would be choosing materials that glue reliably as far as possible and eliminating the fastenings.
The last reason is the ease of repairs – you can remove large amounts of boat along really complex lines with a router preset to a particular depth.
The router can be set to the plywood thickness or if cold moulded it can be done to the depth of each successive layer so each layer overlaps further onto the existing structure than the previous. This example shows a very small boat, but the method works just about as quickly for much bigger boats too. A couple of days before the bottom had delamined away from the centrecase logs and the blue arrows shows the torn veneer from a piece of string that was laminated into the ply!?! So I have to finish off by trimming bits with the japanese saw and then chiselling any remaining ply off the underlying framework. I have run over the gluing surfaces with a belt sander to get rid of any other protruding bits. Before the bottom goes back on I check the twist of the boat by laying a straight edge across the middle and eyballing to make sure the bow are stern are running parallel. I’m marking the width of the chine log on the edge of the ply so I know where to put the screw to put the wee beestie back together. Before the bottom goes on I coated what would be the inside of the bottom with three coats of epoxy applied wet on wet so the inside of the bottom will be epoxy sealed at the same time as the gluing is finished.
As the final coat goes on the ply sheet I apply glue mix to all the hull framing then start screwing the bottom in place. One area that was a little problematic were the areas where the buoyancy tank faces were originally filleted to the bottom. I go around with a chisel edge piece of timber and clean up any glue ooze then remove the masking tape. As it was a warm day I was able to turn the boat over after about 7 hours (8pm) and plane the ply sheet flush with the edges of the boat and radius the edge slightly.
I then masking taped the painted sides of the boat and do three wet on wet epoxy coats to seal the outside of the boat. The last step is to wait another couple of hours until the final coat has gelled off and fill the screw holes. An alternative method that Pat from Duckflat uses is to fill the holes first making them completely flush.
Fast and easy boat repairs – particularly if fasteners are eliminated during building!
We have had really good results using very light woven glass cloth.  It adds very little weight compared to the usual fibreglass cloth that people use on their boats and offers much the same protection.
Jarcat in construction above – makes a canoe look puny, until you look carefully at the weight of the ply. You can always damage something by hitting it hard enough, but if the light glass will do for most of the pressures you will be putting on it. I would not do the whole outside of the Eureka.  You can eliminate the glass tape on the outside of the boat if you cover the bottom panel, the two bilge panels and go one inch onto the topside panels with the 2oz or lighter cloth.
Making water tight and testing I have an 11' wooden Gull sailing Dinghy, which I've owned for nearly 6 years.
How do I join plywood for a small yacht cabin top? How do I join plywood for a small yacht cabin top? First, we will classify the types of holes we are discussing as ones that are round and have been machined, probably with a drill, as opposed to punctures and cracks incurred from damage.
Few repairs are identical, and many variables can influence the appropriate repair strategy. Use this chart by finding a vertical line on the graph that balances both hole diameter and laminate thickness. Keep in mind that in all repairs, regardless of materials or technique, bonding areas must be CLEAN and DRY and either POROUS or SANDED to provide tooth for good adhesion.
Clean surfaces with an appropriate solvent to remove oil, grease, wax, sealants or other contaminates. The following two examples can be repaired with thickened epoxy because their characteristics put them in the lower left-hand corner of the chart. To begin the repair, ream the hole with a drill bit slightly larger than the existing hole to expose clean, fresh laminate and wood. In thicker laminates, removing the screw may result in a blind hole, a hole that does not go completely through the laminate. The next three examples are repaired through a combination of filling with thickened epoxy, bonding solid plugs in place, and using laminates of fiberglass. Although the safety risk is low, you want a strong repair to reduce the risk of having the seat crack in use and avoid future repairs.
If matching the non-skid pattern is important to you, we recommend contacting Gibco Flex-Mold for flexible non-skid patterns that are available for molding the exact pattern over the repair. Example An instrument is eliminated and now a 2" diameter hole exists in a bulkhead, which is fiberglass with a plywood core. Although it is a larger hole, this is not a high-risk repair since the hole has existed without weakening the boat and is not underwater.
If the area will not be highly stressed, you can fill the low spots on either side of the plywood plug with epoxy thickened with 407 Low-Density Filler or 410 Microlight™. Example A 1" diameter hole drilled near the hull bottom through a structural laminated fiberglass bulkhead with a ?" plywood core.
Since the repair is to a structural component and needs to be watertight, the consequences of failure are higher than the previous examples.

Fill the hole with a wood plug using the method described in the previous example and then bevel the laminate at 12:1 ratio on the edges where the new laminate will overlap onto the original. The final three examples describe repair procedures used when a more serious situation would result if the repair were to fail. A backer plate may be necessary to keep the layers in the patch from pushing through the hole.
In situations like this, where the difference in hole diameter between the old and new hole is ?" or less and the screw pattern for the new thru-hull will be in the original laminate, you can get away with adding minimal reinforcement from one side. When the epoxy used in your reinforcement has gelled, use epoxy thickened with 403, 404, or 406 filler to fill the hole. The chart would place this repair in the upper right quadrant due to the hole's location-a hole below the waterline certainly raises the consequences if it fails- yet, because this is a machined hole and not a puncture or impact hole, the repair should be easy to accomplish. We hope the chart and the repair methods described in these examples will help you decide how to repair a hole.
Hi All, I would like to introduce myself, I live in t he UK, and along with 2 friends I have bought a wooden boat. We purchased the boat just before Christmas, and when we scraped away the paint, the hole was a lot bigger and more rotten than we thought. Don't do anything rash, but rather focus on getting the boat dry and stable in a place where you can work on it. I can see just from this shot that you will need to replace more than just the plywood mate. Yeah, you might want to probe around with a knife or icepick and see how much soft (rotten) wood there is around the hole.
Thanks again for all your help, I will try and put more pictures on, is it just the holes you need photos of? If there are just small areas that don't go all the way through, ie just 1 or 2mm, can this be patched? And I would get her good and dry and treat the underlying wood that is worth saving with some penetrating epoxy (like CPES). I will post some engine photos up tomorrow, someone suggested it may be off a Foord Escort? You might want to look around the boat elsewhere and see if you have this kind of rot everywhere in the boat. In my opinion, even if they were the same thickness according to your calcs, the fact the one side is of new and stiffer material , with all different products holding it together along with a different building style than the existing side, you will end up with a bent boat that goes really fast, around and around in circles. Before running about blindly, you might consider reading some good books about plywood boat construction and repair (local library) and find a real boatbuilder to run to for advice. Plywood is made with layers of wood veneer laid with the grains atomic number 85 approximately right angles and so glued together. The reasons they may need to be repaired are numerous: refitting, resizing, removing obsolete equipment, or mistakes. In a best-case scenario, a repair can be very simple: force thickened epoxy to fill the hole, scrape it flush, and allow the epoxy to cure. Determine the consequences of repair failure and find a horizontal line that represents the level of risk. The hole is small in diameter, the skin is relatively thick compared to the hole diameter, and the skin is backed by dense core material, plywood. Fiberglass laminate is hard and strong and using 404 or 406 Filler creates a hard, strong epoxy filler, which more closely matches the characteristics of the laminate.
It is low risk because the hole is deep and there is a lot of surface for the plug to bond to. Because there is no access to the inside of the transom, you should install a plug in the hole to keep the epoxy from running through while it is curing.
These repairs fall into the middle of the chart with some higher risks, larger holes and thinner laminates. The most difficult part of this repair will be the time consuming work of matching the color and non-skid pattern of the gelcoat surface after the hole is filled.
Then wet out a piece of fiberglass cloth 2?"-3" in diameter and apply it to the sanded area on the inside of the hatch. Allow the epoxy to cure before sanding smooth, sealing with a coat of epoxy, and painting or gelcoating. While it is likely that simply filling this hole will provide enough strength, overlaying the plug with fiberglass will provide more strength and better sealing. It is a relatively large hole, and liners are generally thinner laminates even though they often provide a structural component to the hull. A simple way to make a backer is to wet out a piece of lightweight fiberglass on a sheet of polyethylene plastic and allow it to cure. To do this, sand the inside of the hole to expose clean laminate, sand the laminate on the backside (4"-5" diameter area centered over the original hole), and apply the reinforcement.
See also our Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance Manual for information on fairing and finishing as well as laminate repairs. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. If so, you may want to consider a whether you r time and money might go better into a boat with less problems.
The others have convinced me to replace the whole of the starboard hull, rather than patching. V1.0 01 2008 Using industrial hot melt mucilage guns http glueplywood for hole filling and renovate of plywood and How to repair plywood.
Plywood surface defects stool often be successfully repaired by field repairs to or near its I have a little delamination problem that I view you all might have close to advice for. When repairing fiberglass boats, the challenge is to determine an appropriate repair strategy. At the other extreme, a repair of structural fiberglass might involve grinding both sides, bonding in reinforcing fibers, sanding the entire repair flush, gelcoating, and finishing to a high gloss.

If this repair fails, the worst thing that will happen is the plywood core may rot someday.
If the hole is deeper than the length of the syringe nozzle, use a soda straw to extend the length of the nozzle. Even though this hole repair example is considered a low-risk repair, any repair that has the potential to allow water into your boat deserves the best possible bonding techniques. In addition, the hole has very little surface area exposed to the water so there is very little pressure trying to push the repair through the hole.
You can make a plug by saturating some type of absorbent material with epoxy and forcing the wet plug to the back of the hole.
Chamfer the top lip (the gelcoated side) of the hole, about ?" back, with a countersink bit or a rotary abrasive tool. What is needed here is to bond in a wood plug that is a bit thinner than the plywood core so that once the epoxy cures you can laminate over it and maintain the original bulkhead thickness. While the consequences of a complete repair failure would be quite low, it would still be a good idea to repair this hole by grinding a 12:1 bevel around the circumference of the hole and laminating in a layered fiberglass patch, as described in detail in our manuals. You can then easily cut this single thickness of glass with scissors to a size larger than the hole and bend it to fit through the hole. The reinforcement could be a layer or two of fiberglass cloth with epoxy, a thin layer of cured fiberglass laminate like G-10, or a ?" thick piece of plywood sealed with epoxy. By carefully weighing the particulars of the hole and the importance of the repair, you can make a sound decision on what repair method to choose. We feel that we cant just replace a section because the joins will be butt joins and we question their strength. Repairs that are in the upper right corner need to be done very conservatively, and repairs that are in the lower left corner can place a lower emphasis on strength.
The chamfer softens the sharp edge left from the reaming operation so the repair is less likely to telegraph through the final finish. Trying to force thickened epoxy into a blind hole with a putty knife always leaves an air bubble at the bottom of the hole. When you fill a hole, clean up around the hole as thoroughly as possible to minimize sanding time. Cotton balls, foam ear plugs, foam rubber from a pillow, paper towel, Kleenex, or any other absorbent material will work. Then fill the hole flush with the surface, using epoxy thickened with a WEST SYSTEM™ high-density filler.
Remove the plug and sand a slight chamfer around the perimeter of the hole on both sides of the bulkhead that flares out onto the fiberglass a ?" or so. Sand the edge of the puck and both face surfaces, and then dry fit the puck in the hole so that it is centered with regard to the thickness of the laminate.
Once the patches cure, sand them and an area larger than the patch to prep for fairing and finishing. This will enable your boat to once again be a hole in the water (with a few less holes) into which to pour money!
Then make a template of the patch required, using either the sawn-out piece or scribed cardboard, and from it make a matching, beveled piece in new plywood. If the new side is 6mm plus 4mm laminated together (we thought that this is best because if we use 9pm ply we will have 2 or 3 butt joins, as opposed to this method where it will almost be like one long sheet), the starboard side will be 10 mm and the port will be 9 mm. You want to ensure that the repair is strong enough for the anticipated worst-case load and err on the side of being conservative.
Additionally, when the hole is chamfered on both sides, a mechanical lock is formed when the hole is filled.
You can then lay the fiberglass patch in place without pushing through, squeegee it down and allow it to cure. Be sure to seal all exposed fiberglass edges and drilled holes to prevent moisture from wicking into the laminate before installing the fitting with a flexible sealant like 3M™ 5200. You can then bond the puck in by brushing a thickened mixture of epoxy and 406 Colloidal Silica on the inside of the hole and the edges of the puck. It is especially important to remove all the antifouling paint anywhere epoxy will be applied because epoxy will not stick well to most bottom paints. Maybe you could cut that plywood back to the middle of some good frames (if there are frames that come up from the chine log) and piece it in from there.
The boat is roughly 6 meters and I am wondering if this difference in mass will be a problem. Other things to consider include the costs in time and money and the skill required to perform the repair. A hole with a large diameter is more highly stressed in a thin laminate than in a thick laminate. If the puck fits loosely and doesn't stay where placed, use duct tape to hold it in place until the epoxy cures. Then you can fair and feather out the surface and add a light layer of fabric and epoxy for reinforcement well past the edges of the repair both inside and outside, or simply fair and paint, depending on how the hull was originally constructed. The chart above and this discussion of different types of repair strategies from the simplest to the most complex can help you decide the best repair strategy for most hole repairs. Fill the low spots on each side of the plug with a layer or two of 6-12 oz fiberglass cloth if the area will be exposed to impact or abuse. If you epoxy it on there using screws (marine quality) from the inside, it will be plenty strong.

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