Location: barbados Small Power Cat Design I?m looking for is input on the specs for a powered cat design, I want to build a small ?shallowish? draft power cat that can handle moderate chop and keep me dry. It?s been suggested that I go flat at the transom (how flat?) and move to a vee section toward the bow. A flat bottom provides more volume under the water per inch of immersion, supporting more weight than a v shape. So in the case of a smaller boat or RC model you may need to find ways to compensate for the disporportionate weights of motor and crew to a small displacement boat.
Your first discussion made me think of what I believe is called a slot hull, similar to a mono hull but with a slot cut through the middle. Finally, If you think of the boat longitudinally the further out you place the motor with limited displacement the more it might effect the trim angle and create porpoising.
Location: West Florida What worried me in my Cat plans was - How am I going to hold these two hulls together? I like your forms and model - please remember we can fill up books with what I don't know about boat design - but they seem a bit short for the shape. With your construction method - you'll have great compartments for in-hull storage, but the entire working surface will be deck (no cockpit).
Location: Canada Power Cat Design Check out the book on tunnel boat design.
My thought on cats is you get better stability for effective (high) aspect ratio of wetted hull (length width). Location: barbados Small Power Cat Design I?ve got to say thanks for all the useful input I?ve been getting and I am trying to incorporate it into my design.
The new mockup was sealed with tape and I?ve started some float testing but I?d like some help with the physics and math. Well here are the latest pics, the hull seems to have a good attitude in the water but I will wait on your input before trying to hang 1.4 oz off the back. Pinning down the practical objectives your trying to accomplish and modifying the features of the boat to accomplish those goals is important. Along the same lines I'd imagine in Cat design your torsional box is deck and bridging structure based.
Similarly, Designing Power and Sail by Arthur Edmunds is a good primer with a lot of useful tables and formulas. You might want to build a bigger prototype at some point so you your materials and model power will be more comparable to a full size model. IVB HUll with that cat design hull you will not get shallow water operation as the hulls will not support the weight without being forced deeper into water..
The 1728 for a volume (or mass) is quite correct and 144 would be the ratio for any area and obviously 12 for any linear dimension. If you intend to do any testing then check out the following notes.The model should be in the same type of water as the boat will operate and at the same draft (scaled down, of course). So even a spacing of only one or two hull widths is probably enough for stability purposes but insufficient for a deck working width.
Good luck with your tests and make sure you can measure properly the effect of what you're doing.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Ireland Powered Trimaran Hi all I have been considering my boat building options for some time now. Speed is not of great importance but I would be looking to use an engine that would at least equal the speed achieved under sail on a 24.
They could, of course, go faster, as long as one realizes that they will be sacrificing best economy for the extra speed.
Both designs are for stitch and glue plywood an have simple plywood and glass box beams for the akas. Location: atlanta,ga powered buc 24 hwbd, I have a Buc 24 and though it looks easy to build and is a good sail boat, I don't see it as a very good power boat. Hi Chris very interested in your two designs, I wouldnt mind building either size, what kind of width are the two designs?

Originally Posted by bruceb hwbd, I have a Buc 24 and though it looks easy to build and is a good sail boat, I don't see it as a very good power boat. How much 4 stroke power would be required for either of your designs to reach a) The designed 12 knot cruise speed and b) a 20 knot cruise speed, at say half to two-thirds throttle? Chris Ostlind Previous Member   The big boat (SurfBus) is going to take 20-25 hp to move along at 12 knots. The smaller tri (Javelin) uses 10 hp to do the 12 knot target and 25 to bang out the 20 knots suggested. Originally Posted by hwbd Hi Chris very interested in your two designs, I wouldnt mind building either size, what kind of width are the two designs? Not sure what shape you are referring to, it is just a little yacht tender, to putter around in with a tiny outboard. Its not one thing or another!!, take the bits out of the middle of the hulls you have a common cat !!! I made tunnels for a long time and cant see anything that going to set the market alight !! If you make a prototype and do some testing make that thing completely detachable and see the differance with and without and reduced in size etc etc . Like i already said its just another cat in the crowd so when they all sitting at the marina how does one find it amongst the hundreds of others ??
The shear line being a flat straight line as a detail line and will make it look like a shoe box . Laught as much as you want women have colour more sense in there little finger than any man has in his whole body .
Powerboat designers are giving their maximum effort to develop something the will offer an extraordinary look as well as speed and power. The name of something should reflect some significant or hopefully dominant feature of the thing to hearld what it is. If you wish to change the definition as you see it to suit your own concepts who's to argue? Personally, if I wanted anything that old in style, I?d want to go all the way and use steam power and maybe paddlewheels. Location: Flattop Islands Describing and defining a canoe stern is even more difficult than the double-ender.
I think of canoe sterns as finer and more graceful than the typical Colin Archer double-ender. Amateur designers Albert Strange (1855-1917) and George Holmes (1861-1940) did a great deal to popularize the canoe yawl type by creating and sailing these small but capable vessels on some challenging cruises. Location: Minnesota, USA I guess in my mind, I picture a canoe stern as having tumblhome from about sta 6 or 7 back and around. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Maybe in these days of high fuel prices and the coming years - perhaps not too far off - we may see a resurgence of efficient power watercraft including double-enders, for recreational purposes, but I doubt it. Typically NW American seagoing birchbark canoes had tapering stems like modern sea kayaks, no surprise there. Dugouts of the same region often had small transoms or wildly raised sterns clearly intended to fend off - or surf down - a following sea.
A racing canoe was an entirely different design, extremely long 50+ ft with longest practical waterline as you might expect.
The Kutenai built a bark canoe with stems like extreme wave-piercing designs - I have never been able to figure out the reason. I hope to build the two hulls separately ( stitch and glue) and then use ply bulkheads to hold the thing together. If you perform the tests in FW but will operate in SW you will need to make corrections as the displacement volume is correct but the mass is incorrect.
The boat I am now thinking of building is a trimaran about 25ft and powered by an inboard diesel engine, possibly a converted car engine. Yeah Im thinking of building from the bucaneer 24 plans and modifying the rear and installing an inboard diesel so I suppose that woulb be another one off.
Both of these boats were originally designed for the smallest engine possible with max efficiency while driving the boats at a 12 knot cruising speed.

While both boats can take a modest inboard engine, they are designed for the power to weight ratios of four stroke outboards.
Mine is lighter than some (I don't have a cabin), but any more than 3 normal crew and gear will overload it. They're quiet, sip fuel, remarkably dependable and last a long time with normal maintenance. Look around you !!,look in a cloths shop for men its drab and dead looking and not exciting at all !!,then look in any womens ware shops theres colour!
The Supersnake powerboat is such an attempt that is made of aggregated diamond nanorods and carbon fiber. Not quite gone with the wind, there are lots of them still around, lovingly preserved from antiquity.
If the masses can't afford to run their honking great highspeed boats they will either go smaller or go away. Ignoring modern canoe stern variations, aboriginal builders were incredibly innovative and used many stern types. I haven?t seen any flat planing sterns or tunnel sterns on an aboriginal canoe though, but they tried everything else. In my research on this one I have found very little in the way of existing or stock designs for small power tris. Modifications to either boat for inboard power are within the scope of the designs as they were also meant to take electric drive systems. It also has too steep of aft hull angle for a good power boat, it would squat with very much power. It seems to me they are all on loan to the local boat museum, taking advantage of the free mooring no doubt, and only get taken out for the annual regatta when their owners show up in a plastic monstrosity with a great chunk of noisy metal hanging over the stern. As impressive as Serenade is, I would not consider that a canoe stern and I would guess that in the popular vernacular, most others would not consider that a canoe stern. The model vertical centre of gravity should be close to the the boat's because it affects the magnitude of the trim. We want the hulls to float vertically but if we let them both float freely without connecting them they will only float horizontally, in other words they are unstable. There are small automotive diesels (Smart cars and others) that could be used in a proper hull design. I'd be surprised if this boat had performance advantages that the comparable 20-odd year old boat I provided a link to earlier, did not. Lotusan based color paint is used to keep the boat clean and lessen the friction to its minimum level.
Have the load on the model suspended in the correct way or in some Rube Goldberg way that emulates it. If we slide the hulls closer together there comes a position where it will also become unstable. Boat lovers will surely like the lucrative design and the power of a V8 engine that is able to produce remarkable speed.
This position depends on the the proportions of the parts and their weights as well as the weight of the cross-bar or blade.
If it is has been a good trip with the fish hold nearly full the boat is fairly deep in the water and its stability is not too good but sufficient. But if the next catch is very good then as it is being hauled aboard the net clears the deck and is swinging freely.
If you have the model correctly set up for the test then you'll get the correct trim but don't try and model any heeling with only a single hull. You can have a good, stable catamaran but each hull on it's own could be completely unstable and even roll over.

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