I know this boat was designed for Adult Education so I wounder has and adult sailed this boat and could give me any comments good or bad.
I'd do some careful research and surveying local clubs to find out what boats are popular and why. It appears you are in Melbourne, you might consider contacting Mordialic Sailing Club, they ran a successful programme building Firebugs a couple of years ago. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) Spectacular photos from today's Sailing Anarchy :) Sean Herron has not been around for quite some time so, damnit, someone has to do the dirty job, right?
Please note the unusual shape of the steering wheel, a good disposition of winches and also a very intelligent placement of the fishing rod. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) Even if there are no foils in the pic? Location: Eustis, FL Only a rank novice, obviously listening to the photographer's equally amateurish suggestions, would hike out like that, on a day where the air can't even straighten out the vang. Location: Italy (Garda Lake) and Croatia (Istria) There is a leg of someone wearing a jeans visible in the right corner of the Doug's photo, holding the dinghy upright. Location: united states of america I'm not a sailor but I think we need to see more before judging it. Free Classic yacht mag » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post What is your sailing fantasy? Of course, the Penguin is easier to build than Utility & Fay, and has many of the virtues Fox mentions. Ahh Brian - that will be nominations for the best 12' sailing dinghy suitable for the open Solent, famous for it's rough wind against tide conditions. If the prize were minimalist elegance then I feel sure the Truc 12 would have to take the prize. We are renowed for building large custom made luxury yachts: catamarans, power boats and superyachts. Boat Building Boat Designs, Designers, Naval Architect s, Design Software, Plans & Kits . You didn't say a thing about oars (or other aux propulsion) only sailing, so a sail and oar boat's sailing performance and safety won't remotely compare to 12' boats designed for pure (or mostly) sailing like Welsford's Truant or Oughtred's Guillemot or Shearwater. Also, I would suggest finishing the corners of the floor web apertures with quite a big radius.
Originally Posted by Ozducati I have made a bit of progress in between running around over the weekend. The deadline for the plant shutdown (and my redundancy) looks like it's going to be March 31st, so I should have plenty of time on my hands to build the model.
I impressed myself (but then again, I am easily impressed) with the centreboard slot dimension.
I was thinking about your concerns regarding rot, and I remember when I was younger that one of my uncles had a pergola post that was starting to rot where the beam for the rafters was set into it.
Location: Brisbane, Australia I received this email from the senior member of the Mirror 16 fleet in the US. Bob Just as well the development of plans is progressing, so that some of these boats can get new hulls. I found blsiters popping up all over the hull this summer, so I popped them this winter and drained them, then proceeded to peel most of the fiberglass off of the wood. Location: Brisbane, Australia Hi Katrina, Great to have you contributing to this thread. Fasten the patch firmly to the outside with a few screws (maybe even nuts and bolts if you can get your hand inside).


When the first lot of glue is set, glue the patch in place and screw through into the battens.
Location: Lawrence, Kansas Thanks for the advice, I hadn't thought to put stiffeners behind it, that is a fantastic idea. One note, howevever, and it is what prompted my earlier question about the floor ribs, is that a rectangular shape is the worst shape to cut out of a rib, and also the worst shape to cut and replace structural pieces (such as the hull) of the boat. Rod tells me that the cut-outs in the floor webs of his model is because he 'hasn't put rads on anything yet'.
My wife asked me to mention that, if you have to strip old fibreglass, a heat gun is a great help. Location: Brisbane, Australia Another point of possibly more general interest.
A year or so back Lulubelle suffered a small but severe 'puncture wound' (due to a sharp rock hidden beneath the surface of a muddy beach) in the outer skin in a spot where I could not reach from inside.. A bit of epoxy glue around the hole and around the patch and I was able to manipulate it sideways through the oval hole, rotate it 90 degrees, then use the nails to pull it into the hole from the inside until the backing piece stopped against the inside of the hull. Under the corners of the deck where it meets the gunwales is a piece of timber which the Building Instructions refer to as a 'carlin'. I now have the hull shape defined in CAD and am currently adding in ribs the ribs, bulkhead and other detail. Location: Shenandoah Valley, Virginia Help Restoring a Comet Sailing Dinghy Hi All! The hull number of the boat is 1093 as shown in the photo called 'Hull Number - 1.jpg) That number should put it around the WWII era, I think. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I'm slightly biased having owned a Roger Dongrey designed Cornish Cormorant for years, sadly she doesn't qualify as she's GRP and no plans available - but the simplicity of the single high peaked gaff and for sailing enjoyment is hard to beat. A really lovely dinghy, Andrew Wolstenholme draws just about the sweetest sheerlines of all the designers. I looked up the PY's 800 for the foiling moth and 920 for the Cherub, that's significantly faster.
E-commerce site with over 250 designs from some of America's most respected designers. Typical light winds up the Yar, but blowing 15 knots wind against tide back across the Solent to Keyhaven. The width of the centreboard case slot is 25mm (in the centreboard case assembly that's above the floor). Ideally I would like to walk away from Fisher & Paykel and straight into another job, but the way the economy is looking at the moment I don't think that that will be the case.
We first learned that a number of the webs in the centerboard area were cracked and broken.
I was looking at your plans, and I was wondering if you were going to round out the corners of the sub-floor ribs, and if not your reason for doing so.
It is very strange, it appears as though the glass was never wetted out with epoxy in the first place because what I am peeling off looks like dry cloth.
Make it a neat (preferably rectangular) shape that generously covers the area to be patched. I wasn't sure how to clamp the final piece into place, and screwing it into somthing that was clamped is a great idea.
The corners of a rectangle create large stress concentrations which will break much sooner under much less load than a curved corner, which is why most aircraft and boat ribs have circular cutouts. It would be much better to make it a rectangle (or at least a quadrilateral) with rounded corners.


I might try it, although you should see how easy it pulled off, especially when it was still damp. After seeing all the grief that people are having with cracked ribs I was thinking of doubling the thickness of the web in this area by laminating a second thickness of 4mm ply. The white hull with the lacquered deck is what I envisage for mine when it comes time to build it. I spent some time a few weeks ago down on the Brisbane River where 3 Mirror 16s met up for a day out, and I took the opportunity to meet them at the boat ramp before they set off got a few more measurements from the hulls. The early boats where mostly home built and considerable variances where permitted until the 60's when they started to control the class better. Judging by the building details, she doesn't appear to be one of the Scotch built, but possible a home build that once received classification. She is quite small though for the open Solent, famous for it's rough wind against tide conditions. It is unfornutuate, and I have a rather large hole in the bottom of the hull just forward of the centerboard casing that I need to cut out and fix. It is much more difficult now that it is cold outside and everything has become very brittle. She's been updated with the longer foredeck, which wouldn't have been typical of a 1940's era boat.
If the model turns out looking half decent the Wooden Boat Club can have it if you think it could be used to fill an empty space on a shelf somewhere.
Maybe you could slosh some around inside Lulubelle, or throw a bag of salt around in there. After two season of sailing, may granddaughter discovered some bubbles under the fiberglass cloth covering the hull. Any advice from anyone who has cut pieces out of the hull and put them back would be greatly appreciated because I am really not sure how to go about doing that. I think I will make some makeshift stringers where the patch is to go and secure them with clamps and epoxy before putting the patch in. For example does it have a bronze or aluminum centerboard, does it have a boom vang attached to the mast. This modification came around in the late 50's early 60's and would be indicative of a sailor trying to stay competitive. That way I will have something moderately structural to attach the patch to when the time comes. She might be of value to those in the class looking for an old grandfather to restore, so see if you can get some response from them.
I have been worked with building small boats using CNC cut ply panels before and I think the structure of the 16 might well lend itself to this process. The bronze board was quite an expense for the home builder and are sought after, not because they sail better (they don't), but because of it's age.
There should still be limber holes in all of the floor webs to allow drainage through the drain ports in the transom.
I know some M16 owners fit the limber holes in the two solid webs with bungs which they can remove via an access port if necessary.
She competed in a centerboard class this past season at the local Yacht Club in Kansas in a mixed group using the Portsmouth handicap numbers and won first place for the season.



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Comments to “Sailing dinghy design software 2014”

  1. MATADOR  writes:
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