When someone tells you that they built their boat themselves, they usually mean that they bought a shell and fitted it out. Mirabilis means amazing, wondrous or remarkable, which pretty much sums up Abbi and Graham Roper’s new life on board their boat.
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Location: Port Townsend, Wa., USA Building plans for 26'-28' ocean-cruising STEEL sailboat?
Location: Netherlands Sorry haven't seen any of those, but considering your requirements in STEEL it will be very very difficult for such a small vessel (without external ballast) to be 180 degree selfrighting. Location: Sweden Danish Rose 28 The Danish Rose 28 by Martin Bekebrede comes close you could ask him about stability details.
Originally Posted by mcm 26'-28', STEEL, blue-water, ocean-cruiser, with shoal-draft centerboard, and yet possessing complete 180 degree self-righting? In an inverted position the center of gravity is now well above the water and the floating hull unstable and should go back to an even keel with a nice puff or wind or wave movement, but usually the momentum of the roll will be enough to right itself again.
As for the little cruiser; soon I am going to put pen to paper to design a little 25 - 26 steel boat - light weight steel construction blue water cruiser with very traditional lines above waterline. Originally Posted by Wynand N mcm, simply put, all ballasted sailboats will (should) right themselves. And that's exactly what I think, but I’m still not sure if I should go with a ballasted or unballasted centerboard. I've been to your web-site several times over the past year, and I really like the work you are doing. Originally Posted by Wynand N As for the little cruiser; soon I am going to put pen to paper to design a little 25 - 26 steel boat - light weight steel construction blue water cruiser with very traditional lines above waterline. Moreover, I don’t want the expense of custom-plans, so I looking for cheaper stock-plans. Also, I am considering either a quarter-berth, or having a very shallow cockpit with a full berth underneath and no inboard engine, only an outboard mount on the transom. Here are some pictures of my TT24 under construction with lengthened cabin top and I changed the full keel to a naca series fine keel.
I am a member of Brent Swain?s Origami Yahoo Group, and, if Brent?s design was a centerboarder instead of a twin-keeler, I would be satisfied. I appreciate your opinion, and you certainly are not alone in that opinion, but I have read some other informed opinions that indicate that a centerboard pivoting into and out-of a strong, steel, stub-keel is very stable. True, Brent is very positive about twin-keelers , but his is a minority opinion, and most opinions indicate that, outside the extreme low tides of North-West Europe, twin-keels are disadvantageous.
So far my search for plans for a 26?-28? ocean-cruising, steel, centerboarder is still on-going. Moreover, the Multi-Chine 28?s high freeboard is a waste, because I only need standing head-room in the galley and enclosed head area., thus I would prefer a lower freeboard replaced by a higher cabin top. The BS26 wouldnt be a good canidate to modify to a swing keel like you discribe, the hull draft is about 2'. Not many steel sailboat plans for under 30' out there, might have to switch to diferent material to get what you want.
Location: Germany There are not many plans to see on the internet - but they are out there.
The origami method is a very quick way to build the hull, decks and cabin structure the rest about the same as any other method.
Displacment around 6700 Lbs and 1800 Lbs lead balast, if you go to the origamiboat site look in the photo files tom's BS 26 I have a lot of pictures there. Tom tazmann View Public Profile View tazmann's Gallery Find all posts by tazmann Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Can Aluminum be painted? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.

On any self build boat project, one of the first and most important decisions you'll have to make is the choice of hull material. For instance, you wouldn't choose steel for a 25 foot sailboat - it would be way too heavy - nor would you go for aluminium if you didn't know how to weld, or weren't prepared to learn.Sailboat hulls should be both strong and rigid.
Glassfibre, as it's almost universally known (fiberglass in the US), is in its basic form polyester resin reinforced with chopped strand mat. A favourite choice of material for the amateur or one-off builder, not just for the inherent strength of a metal hull, but also because of the relative low cost of the raw material and the ease of construction for those with welding skills. Steel suffers from chemical corrosion in saltwater, so it's absolutely vital to maintain a protective surface coat of a water resistant paint - epoxy being the best choice.Because of its weight, steel is more suitable for hulls of 14m and above, when it becomes a great choice for self build boat construction providing you have the welding skills. Aluminium is more difficult to weld than steel but has the advantage of a better strength-to-weight ratio, and it doesn't suffer from saltwater corrosion.
In fact some owners are happy to leave their vessels unfaired and unpainted, accepting with a Gallic shrug the appearance of the protective coating of aluminium oxide that quickly builds up.
Although the process is labour intensive, the construction materials are comparatively inexpensive, making them an attractive building option to someone with more time on his hands than cash in his pocket.Occasionally you'll find a completed ferrocement hull on the secondhand boat market. Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 469 Apr 08, 16 08:43 PM2015 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 469 with tons of upgrades and extras! Montevideo 43 Apr 02, 16 07:28 AMPassat is a 1980 Montevideo 43, built and designed in South Africa by Fred Schultz.
Building in aluminum offers several advantages to the boat owner – including ease in. This is mostly due to the weight (and the distribution of weight) of the steel, aluminum would be better for this job. Honestly it would be cheaper for you to look at this site, buy one and stick it in a container to where you live, pay the customs and enjoy). As far as I know mine is the first 26 built as a 26, there are a few that were built but were modified a lot and stretched to 28'.
Under the files section there is a material list for the 26 that should give you a idea of what it takes. Your final choice will be made on the hull material's suitability for the type or size of boat you have in mind, and your own familiarity and skill level with that material.
A fairly obvious requirement you may think, but it isn't always the case, particularly with lightly built GRP hulls. Modern GRP designs employ more sophisticated laminates, often incorporate layers of stronger woven glass rovings or exotic materials such as aramids (Kevlar, Twaron) to build in additional strength where it's needed.Fibreglass lends itself to mass production techniques as, through investment in moulds and automated tooling, labour costs can be kept to a minimum and hulls of consistent quality produced in high volume. But aluminium is susceptible to electrolytic and galvanic corrosion by contact with dissimilar metals, or through improperly designed or installed electrical systems.Sacrificial zinc anodes are essential to keep galvanic corrosion at bay. This technique lends itself to custom self build boat construction as no moulds are required, the hull being built upside down around temporary timber frames.The planks are glued one to the other with epoxy, and the completed hull is sheathed in layers of woven glass rovings and epoxy.
Odds are it will be at a very attractive price, and may seem perfect for fitting out to your own requirements.
Boat building is an exercise that many people are increasingly undertaking both for pleasure and self-fulfilment. Standing room at galley is no problem but the head being off to one side is with the deadrise of the hull. Out of the water, a boat should be capable of taking all of its weight on its keel without undue hull distortion. Many owners, wary of stray electrical currents, choose to dangle a few additional ones over the side when in marina berths but a better form of protection would be to fit an 'isolating transformer' or a 'galvanic isolator' so there are no interactions with the marina's shore supply. But beware, because unless it's been built by a specialist boat builder skilled in the technique, you could be letting yourself in for a heap of problems downstream. He started with a pile of steel, way back in 1997, and this year launched Ivy, a neat 38-footer on which he's done virtually everything from laying the baseplate to painting the roof.And he has form, too, because this isn't the first time he's built a boat.
They designed the shape of the shell, based on old working barges, built the steelwork, came up with the internal layout, fitted it out and painted the outside. As boat heels over, righting stability rises to a max in most cases at about 60 degrees of heel. The cost of building a plug, then the mould, would make the whole venture totally uneconomic for a single hull. The quality of a ferrocement hull is totally dependent on the manner in which it has been built. Here's a much better approach to finding exactly what you want and getting the best possible deal! Mike and his wife, Maggie, have been boating since the late seventies, when they bought a 20ft fibreglass Buckingham cruiser. Then the righting moment will gradually reduce until it reaches a point of vanishing stability and she goes over - this usually happens in a window of 110 - 140 degrees average, depending on design and designer. Metal hulls - steel or aluminium - will flex the least and are strongest in terms of impact resistance.
But buying a completed hull and deck moulding for fitting out yourself is a viable option for self build boat construction.

If the hull has been poorly constructed, for example with voids left in the mortar or with inadequate bonding to the mesh reinforcement, then it will be structurally unsound at best and may be very weak indeed.
That means it’s firmly in the residential market as well as appealing to leisure boaters. Ferroconcrete boats are difficult to insure at reasonable premiums, some insurance companies being unwilling to provide cover at any price.
His next project was a 50ft shell from GT Narrowboats, paid for from the couple's tax-free savings and hence named Tessa. But as a material for a self build boat project, particularly for cruising hulls of 45 feet (14m) and over, ferrocement could be a good choice. Then Mike decided to have a go at building a boat from the baseplate up, and produced a 35ft tug called James.
The boat can still be seen on the water, as it's currently a Saisons hire boat, slightly lengthened and renamed Merlot. Ivy was begun almost as soon as James was launched.What makes the story quite remarkable is that Mike had very little experience of working with steel. Once he'd worked out the shapes he wanted, Mike made hardboard templates to make sure everything would fit together. That way I could be sure that the boat would handle properly".Circumstances meant that Ivy's build happened in a rather unorthodox way, and took a very long time. Mike started by fabricating the rear two-thirds of the hull - that was as much as he could fit in his shed. Once that was complete, he used scaffolding poles to role it outside, so that he could get on with making the cabin. The old wooden shed was creaking like anything, because the steelwork was hanging from the rafters.
Then we rolled the hull underneath, and lowered the cabin on top".Even though the shell was far from complete, Mike then started the fitout. He mocked up the front of the boat in hardboard in the shed, to make sure it looked right and would fit together. It's the sort of thing that you get better at with practice, so I reckon I could do a lot better if I had another go now!" As far as the steelwork is concerned, there's very little Mike hasn't done himself - just the swan neck and rudder post. The fit out also needed to be completed with a tiny galley at the front of the cabin, and the boat needed to be blacked and painted.The boat finally went into the water in May this year, a mere fifteen years since it was started. And it's a very neat little boat, which incorporates some good ideas - essential if you're to fit everything you need into just 38 feet.At the nose is a gas locker, deep enough to take full size gas bottles.
The deck is quite high, so the forward doors have a sliding hatch above to make access easier.Inside, the galley is at the front, a position which Maggie prefers to a mid-galley.
It's a tiny space, but has all the essentials including a Nelson stove (bought second hand but unused off the internet for a knock-down price). The portholes have shutters rather than curtains.The saloon has a built in sofa which pulls out to make a guest bed.
There's a small flat screen tv under the gunwale, the only piece of equipment on board which needs 240 volts - so there's a Maplins 300 watt inverter fitted to power it.The shower room is an off-corridor design, with split doors so they don't take up much room. The walls are lined with vinyl - a neat solution as there are no joins except in the corners.The cabin, at the stern, has an in-line bed and, in truth, not much else. There's not a great deal of storage space, just a couple of drawers under the head of the bed, and some shelves towards the stern. Mike says he was concerned that the engine might get a bit hot being enclosed under the bed, but so far there have been no problems.There's a clever idea at the stern, where there are ladder-style steps up to the counter. A flap folds down to give the helmsman something to stand on inside the hatch.As a self builder, Mike hasn't complied with the Recreational Craft Directive. But it has been surveyed, and has a Boat Safety Certificate.One big advantage of doing everything yourself is that you get a boat at a fraction of the cost. Mike says it's difficult to work out precisely how much Ivy has cost, partly because the built has been spread out over such a long time. But of course Mike has put a lot more into the boat in terms of time and skill; and to complete a project like this you need plenty of both. It looks good on the water (enhanced by the sign writing, done by a friend, John Poole), it handles well, and can turn almost anywhere. Inside, it packs a lot into a tiny space.Now that Ivy is finally finished, Mike and Maggie are planning to spend a lot of time on board. They've done a lot of boating in the past thirty-five years, having covered most of the midland and southern waters, including the tidal Thames. I'd probably put in a section between the cabin and the front deck that looks like a clothed hold with a broad top plank."And when a man with a track record like Mike says he has ideas, you suspect that it's only a matter of time before he puts them into practice.

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