When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The Hook & Moor boat hook helps you to thread a mooring rope through a mooring with ease. I've been goofing around for a couple of years on a real simple hull design and would really like to start cutting metal soon. I'm pretty happy with the design the way it is now although when I display the curvature graph on the chine it looks kinda screwy. Location: Vancouver BC Ok, I can post, so here is a way to fair your hull lines. Step Four: Working from the transom fwd, drag the aft 3 control points so that they lie exactly on your straight construction line. At the very front where these three lines intersect EVERY program produces unsteady surfaces. The missing millimeter doesn?t harm as if you work with surfaces instead of volumes and it will be welded together anyway. Together with the above mentioned procedure you will certainly get what you are looking for. If the chine lines are fair in the top and side profiles does that mean the 3d shape they produce should be fair? If the hull you are designing is to be made from aluminium, or plywood, you really should loft with a developable surface.
For creating the surfaces I use the 'sweep 2 rails' command and make the surface developable. When opening the file in Autocad, the unfolded surface isn't as nicely curled as in Rhino but it seems the line is made of short straight lines.
When I make a 'section' to make cross sections, I notice that the sectioned surface (now a vertical line) isn't a straight line. As i am only using rhino to design the hull surface and do the rest of the designing in autocad (have been using autocad for construction designing of yachts and other vessels for years, it works great for that but unfortunately not for designing freeform surfaces), i also had to export the shape to an autocad file. It's better to draw a curve, degree 3, first in plan view and then drag or nudge the control points in profile view to make the shape you want. It's also good practise to extend the defining curves (keel, chine, gunwale) to the other side of the center line, then use edgesurf between two and two lines, then trim along the center line.
The above save settings have produced clean files that are easily cut by any good CNC software.
Location: Vancouver Seeing as everything is differenty,just assume it's a box,figure it's volume and divide that by half or so.
If possible,drive in stakes,tack on boards to level,line with poly,and measure how much water to fill. Location: Milwaukee, WI Multiply the area of the floor by the average height of the legs. Location: Ashore Assuming all sides are flat, the legs are vertical, and several crucial corners (the rectangular corners of B*L and the legs) are 90 degrees.
It becomes slightly more complicated if the lengths and breadth are not equal, however that is also solvable.
As an example of a floor 16' by 20' and you chose 4' spacing, you do not start measuring at the edges, but half the spacing in at each end, that is 2' in this case. My complicated method is based on the real world where it is rare that anything is a nice geometrical shape. Originally Posted by WestVanHan Seeing as everything is differenty,just assume it's a box,figure it's volume and divide that by half or so.

Originally Posted by gonzo Multiply the area of the floor by the average height of the legs. Originally Posted by Tackwise Assuming all sides are flat, the legs are vertical, and several crucial corners (the rectangular corners of B*L and the legs) are 90 degrees.
Now that you've got the volume, follow Teddydivers' good advice for the practical realization. I had gotten it into my head that the shallow second leg on high side would diminish volume a great deal given that the deep side is not uniformly deep by half. This is to be a -wee little water closet sized tiny- weld fabrication shop at the yard and as these things go I get volunteered to help due to a long stint in construction in my misspent youth.
Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC You are building a shop, not the Hoover dam. Location: Brisbane, Australia I agree with Tim B with the use of MOSFET's over relays for the following reasons.
Location: Adriatic sea I've nothing against MOSFET's but for most boaters even a relay is a mystery.
A disadvantage is that the rugged and cheap ones are N-Channel, so you switch the ground lead. For the soft turn-on the dissipation needs some consideration, a heavy load will heat up a Mosfet very quickly.
Originally Posted by CDK Regularly I've seen questions on this forum about electrical wiring because that is still a mystery for many boat owners. Here is a simple wiring diagram for motor- and sailing boats with one engine and just the basic equipment.
Boat owners who have no idea what this all means should of course hire a qualified technician! Originally Posted by whitepointer23 can i just hook up another solenoid that engages with the ignition so the house batt gets charge while the engines are running. Location: Laboe, Germany By the way, for do-it-yourself guys try the freeware-program TiniCAD for documenting your wiring. These 0.3 V doesn't seem much, but because the charging current is determined by Vch - Vbatt and the internal resistance, it reduces charging current with approx. Originally Posted by CDK Schottky diodes have more fwd voltage drop Bert, 0.3 V as a rule of thumb. With all the hunderds of batteries I supplied with our battery charger and Schottky diodes for the Horsy People, I never had any problems.
Location: South Africa Little Brak River Yes, I made a little test circuit.
You have then a diode which can handle 60 Ampere at only 110 mV loss or 450 Ampere at a loss of only 180 milliVolt or pulsed maximum 1500 Ampere.
Also I do not expect a 11 Volt batteriy to be swichted parallel to a 13.8 Volt fully charged battery.
University student William Woodbridge had to leave campus and then found that necessity motivates creative thinking.
Dennis and Frances, owners of this unusual bed and breakfast obviously loves dogs so much they made the World's Biggest Beagle hotel. Check out these eye-catching hexagon wood tiles designed by Form Us With Love (FUWL) in partnership with TRAULLIT, both based in Sweden. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.
Always ready to use with no loading, messenger, or guide lines, the Hook and Moor allow you to use the mooring line directly.

So if you start and dont let the three lines intersect each other (may be just a millimeter) by building a fourth line then the program can find a fair solution for your surface. Is the "crv2view" command the best way to come up with chine line for the 3d model? For the case that your chine consists out of one ore more merged lines you will never get a good result. I use the comand often when importing lines frrom a 2D drawing that I am building into a 3D model.
A two line sweep will produce a nice smooth surface, but it will be concave in the fwd sections of the hull. There is one parameter that you can set during the export which is called something like max angle, (don't know the exact name it is on the bottom part of the dialog you get when saving to an dwg file i believe that is it is the fourth from below ..
Make sure that you nest the patterns efficiently and save them to the proper media for the CNC shop.
England Building on Teddy's suggestion you need to measure depths at regular spacings.
Pour footers, check where the steel storage racks and any machine tools like presses are going to be situated and provide for those.
Those knife switches may be cheap and simple, but is it worth saving a few bucks and losing your boat or your life?
Parts like the diode bridge and 4-way battery switch are available from Vetus in Europe, I did not look for US suppliers. I had to charge up to 10 batteries of 12 Volt at the same time parallel and used schotky diodes. Looking for a place he could reside in, William’s uncle suggested that he build a teepee. This will force you surface control curve to be straight and tangent to the construction line. Add points if you wish greater control of the shape, but realise that more points are harder to fair.
I also find it works well when you have an idea of a shear line, but can only think of it in terms of plan and profile.
I'm currently working on a little steel hull measuring 6 meters wich is being 'designed' in Rhino. I want to cut the steel sheets with a cnc cutter so I have to export the surfaces to a Autocad-file. Then with the 12 Volt small battery permanently connected in this box via a 1 MegaOhm resistor between VGs (gate)and Source and leave it permanently in the box for 5 years. When you set this parameter to a low value (i use 1 but i will also be fairing the lines in autocad in a later stage) you will get a much better result. Researching on teepee design, ergonomics and carefully considering its stability against weather, William finished his very own teepee house that floats on Lake Ginninderra, Australia. Your solenoid is also powered at that moment and you'll draw starter current from the house battery.

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