4 or 5 have been built and a few stretched versions are on the verge.This is the original at 12 ft long and 4 ft wide. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada If you click on user CP you can see if anyone has docked you points. 12'x 4' though it would be a lot more stable at 5' or better in beam, though it's efficiency will drop quickly. This shape will handle chop and passing powerboat wakes much better then the floating shoe boxes others seem to enjoy. The design above will easily out perform any of the shanty boat, box boat or square micro cruiser thingies. Having said that i can once again assure you that you dont want to go that fast in a 12' x 4' (4m x 1.2m) boat. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
But the flat-bottom skiffs tend to porpoise and pound, and I might occasionally tow a skier or want to cruise sort of fast, while a 40' deadrise is a bit much for me. So, I have been looking for shoal draft, chop handling, and ability to cruise comfortably on plane. Then I started drawing and -surprise- same up with a 20ft skiff (is there a prize for the billionth design?).
I realize it might not perform better than other S+G designs (at best) but to me the look is better, with a couple extra panels.
Location: maine Regardless of what she'll do motoring, I saw nothing in the lines to prevent sailing rather fast with the right rig.
Location: Pontevedra, Spain You'll have to keep that forefoot out of the water when planning, or it may induce directional instability, in my opinion. I have only crude guesses about trim under power at this stage, but with an outboard, it should not be hard to have the bow trim up.
Now all I have to do is turn the aft stations to true monohedron and I would have something I could buy on any street corner-the homogenized skiff! Location: Sydney I think your second design looks much better - no need for that pointed forefoot in the first one, and that wedge did look like the drag would outweight the benefits. Location: Virginia, US The transom is not warped as you can see from the (unfaired) views here.
BWD View Public Profile View BWD's Gallery Find all posts by BWD « >small jet boat design help? Location: Croatia On a Wayfarer you can stand on the gunwhale and it won't tip over. I have to agree with Bistros - don't look at anything less than 14ft if you want enough space to take you both in comfort. Actually PDRacer was one of the first pages I researched, and thought it is more of a boat than a Kayak, so headed away to find Kayak designs!
Originally Posted by PAR but still only a child a mother could love in the chick magnet department, no matter how much bright mahogany trim you install. You will like these pics I got today (yes TODAY) from the philippines where a couple have been built. If I was an advertising type I might suggest that this was a common risk for all PDRacer owners. The Goat Island Skiff and the 14' Raid boat look like great candidates - big enough to comfortable fit two.
Although you want a boat that basically can't capsize, you have to plan for the worst and assume it could happen.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Matoi, I will take great care to ensure the missus doesn't see THAT site until after she has enjoyed a relaxed, leisurely trip around a really small lake! Bistros: hauling the wet missus into anything afloat is definitely not in the plan, but I was thinking of having a boarding ladder so she could climb back over the transom, while I jeer from midships or perhaps something more appropriate. Location: Eustis, FL They're not that young, you're just old enough to think they are.
Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Par, the RYD-8.4 looks very suited for my purpose, what does it weigh?
As an aside, I notice that, on many Gunter rigs, the boom and gaff are similar in length, and I would assume in section too. Location: Eustis, FL Less then 100 pounds with full exterior 'glass sheathing and rig. I'd say there are quite a few candidates among the designs of Paul Fisher (Selway-Fisher) and Gavin Atkins. Barefoot 5.8 a planing sail and oar boat and Barefootwoodenboat's entry in this summer's Race-to-Alaska was launched Saturday. Based on our successful Seka (13’6”) design, this new launch is to be strip-planked as a semi-production project by J and J Gloucester of the UK.
Location: London, UK Small steel boat Hi, I have a number of pieces of steel salvaged from a houseboat remodelling job I did. This boat is biger than 12 feet, but You can have problems with wight if You want exactly 12 feet. Location: Chile Need opinion about old design for a small Russian sailboat I am planning to build a small 16 to 18' boat which I pretend to sail in Chile (open ocean, short passages).

I have come across a Russian design from 1974 for a 4.3 m yacht the contours of which seem to be OK for the purpose. I plan to scale it up by about 15 % and also increase somewhat the depth of the keel (by additional 15 cm.) for additional stability (would love to do more, but it must be easily trailarable). Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC In the late 60s, there was a Canadian couple who cruised the Caribbean for three years in a 14' Peephen. Location: Chile That is the idea I am not that extreme, so I would limit passages to about a week or two max.
Location: Beaufort, SC and H'ville, NC If you flew to Savanna or Charleston today I bet you would have your choice for $200. In the first place, the rigging is very suspcious - I did not like too much the fully battened sail. In the second place, I tend to incline towards reinforced fiberglass construction on male form, not stitch and glue.
My general impression of Bateau designs was that they are geared for those who love construction, not sailing. However, if someone really built one of these, I would appreciate any input on real seaworthiness of these boats. For what it's worth, no 16-footer is really a blue water cruiser, but some are capable of short coastwise trips, which is what I think you want, right? Location: Chile I have sailed a lot up to some 20 years ago, but not extreme (first inland lakes in Austria and then moved to Korea).
Now I plan to retake sailing in Chile (I live here since 1995 and love the country and mountains). My idea is to start soft at latitude 40, especially the somewhat protected fjiords and then see if I can push the limits more to the south.
The boat is pic has been in every kind of weather and sea condition there is up to force 10 and worked very well. However, the main advantage of the type is being able to handle a very large sail like the 1000 sq.
I agree with the poster above about buying a boat that will fit in a shipping container and going sailing instead of building. Also that there are huge numbers of excellent home built designs that would make a good cruiser of the Chilean fiords. An English yawl that just came through the NW passage is here in town and I discussed a former voyage with its Captain. Several years ago he and his wife sailed from UK, through the Panama Canal, down the west coast of So. Something that sails well in light airs, with a rig that is quickly reduced to deal with the strong downdrafts that come roaring out of canyons.
Why built a featureless , faceless boat when for the same amount of money and time you can built a proud Lugger or a Tancock ? Location: Chile chinese junk sail As far as my aversion to chinese style rigging, I think that is my prejudice.
The idea about Panama never ocurred to me, but thinking well about it, it may be well feasable to get a boat shipped to Chile.
Location: Vermont Square-back Canoe Plans I am looking for plans to build a small square-back canoe. Location: Lakeland Fl USA You have a set of wants and circumstances unique to your own situation. Location: La Florida In the early 1970's I built a small 2 hull boat which I used to tie onto the roof of my car. But widen the square-sterned canoe until it's the width of a dinghy and it's closer to a dinghy than a canoe. Okay, you could keep it narrow, say 28", and limit the occupancy to one (maybe a small dog too), and cut 2 ft of the stern of a ten footer and yes, you have a very small square-sterned canoe. Location: La Florida pistnbroke-You reminded me of what my friend did back in 1971.
We specialize in quality wooden boat plans for home and professional builders, such as the 13’6” x 4’11” Nez Perce 13 motor boat. The Nez Perce 13 has been a very successful little outboard skiff constructed by many amateur builders in the US, Canada and even as far as Australia. You would have to reshape the bottom which would preclude planing with a motor so you would be stuck maxing out at about 5 or 6 mph. It looks like a boat, it has full standing headroom, requires very modest power and will leave a clean, unmolested wake.
You will soon see that you want to cruise comfortably with sitting head room under the cabin roof to escape the sun.
Maybe needs a touch more flare -tough issue for me ( - I'm from Va but went to school in NC ). So I was thinking originally if warped it might run flat enough to be good if I stay out of nastier waves. And if your better half still feels unsafe, you can install a steel centerplate making it even more stable. Is it practical, if becalmed, to drop the rig and use the boom and gaff as oars, with a clip-on blade?

The new pilot house version of Harry 2, 30' LOD sailing scow, has been featured at Shanty Boat Living and Viva V is in WoodenBoat's summer 2013 MotorBoats magazine launchings anthology. What I am looking for is a sturdy, safe boat which may be somewhat slower than average for reduced crew (1-2).
Russians were quite active in developping DIY boat plans up to the late 80' with very detailed construction instructions (albeit in Russian), so I kind of trust them. If you can find a boat that could be squeezed into a 40' container the shipping cost is pretty reasonable.
And if someone seriously proposes to use the chinese style sail, I think that that person has little to do with serious boat designing of seagoing vessels.
I think that round forms are much better (slightly faster) and safer in heavier sea (maybe I am wrong). America, cruised Chile, went around Cape Horn, cruised Argentina and the East coast, then back to UK. Due to the tremendous isolation and lack of services, something that packs large amounts of food, water and fuel without going too far below its lines is also desirable. I always sailed on standard, more or less modern boats, and it is difficult to change one's attitude. Later, someone built one almost identical in dimensions which they submitted to popular mechanics magazine and received a golden hammer award. But there is something about boatbuilding in particular – watching the boat grow, take shape and finally sit completed on the shop floor – that is especially satisfying. I like the near-plumb stem, so kept that in spite of the lightness of the boat, since I'm not looking to go in big water. Hoping it might run 20-25kts with a 70hp OB, cut small steep chop easily off plane, and if lucky run comfortably at 15 or so. I don't know much about the Raider, it seems a hair heavier but less beamy, perhaps that is due to the self-bailing feature.
These guys are throwing so much good stuff at me that I will have to go through a major exercise just making up my mind which boat to build. DragonFly is 16', fractionally rigged Bermudian and fast, though fairly stable as far as performance dinghies go. A traditional, bright finished 15' black-hulled carvel launch with new Briggs and Stratton inboard.
And, in the over 30' power section, photos from this summer of the Wedge Point 27's "big sisters", Yellow Cedar 38 and Memory 38. Marine grade plywood is quite expensive here in Chile and the quality may not be up to standard, so it is safer to go with the fiberglass. He took 2 pieces of corrugated metal roofing, doubled them over and screwed a short piece of 2x4 into each end. Say if you were looking at her from the side, she would look like her bow is flat (like your design) but on my design, her bow come to an edge and you can see that looking from the top. It's a fine arrangement if you're needs require the few things they actual offer, but your needs aren't as suited to a mud motor as you might think. Feel over my head trying to integrate elemants here, but grateful for any constructive feedback. I would round the forefoot a bit, but easier to do in reality than in CAD, so it shows sharp in renderings. I managed to capsize my W before I learnt how to gybe properly, and my girlfriend did become less enthusiastic about sailing in a dinghy. They are both light, obviously easy to build, probably easy to cartop, and they'll certainly have the legs of the PDR. Sounds like the sort of feature a cheap ready made boat might have, and reduces the on-board clutter.
Lightly loaded and hiking out, you can get some performance out of her, but she's really just a tender, but a stable and easy to build one. My boats usually end up lighter than average, I know where I can skim off the odd pound or two. It fell apart when our friend stepped on the cross beam, breaking it which caused the boat to fold upon itself like an open faced sandwich. I'm thinking that a 15 ft boat is going to need 2 to cartop, whereas I can easily manage the PDR on my own. I've been working on a new 15' boat that's cool looking and if you can hold her down, very fast. He had a good time upon the river after he corrected that design flaw and I built mine the following weekend. My son has no interest in boats at all, on the other hand, my daughter can be talked into anything!

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