While the glue set up I made a cooling coil for the motor, Aluminium tube filled with salt, tamped firmly and ends plugged, is coiled around something a bit smaller in dia than the motor to ensure a tight fit. I will try to fabricate my own 3 blade propeller (screw), but, I might have to bite the bullet and purchase one, we will see. I appreciate the offer, and I like realy like the Midwest Lobster Boat design, I've seen a few pics of them while looking for projects, but I have to take a rain check, cause I have two more boats in the works right now, thanks for the offer though, and I might take you up on it a little later. I found a very informative site, with some info on scratchbuilding various parts, and used the template to make a prop.
After some careful shaping with needle files, sanding, and sharpening the leading edges a bit. With help from that excellent website, I made up a brass stuffing tube, water cooling pick-up tube and rudder tube. The skeg was drilled before mounting, to make sure it was lined up straight and I fishmouthed the grease tube for a snug fit, and soldered it on before drilling into the main prop tube. The bulkheads, crossbracing, motor mounting block, battery trays and electronics shelf were made up, and all the inside joints were given a coat of epoxy before the fittings were glued in place with two part epoxy glue.
On the hull joints I used 5 min epoxy that was thinned a little bit, with denatured alcohol so it could be 'painted' on with a small brush and increased the working time, and ensured a good watertight seal.
After installing the brass fittings with epoxy, the inside was given 4 heavy coats of polyurethane. Thanks, no not yet, I still have to get the recomended batteries, or collect some lead weights for ballast, and a few other minor things before I get it wet. I have a little update, I cut the deck to size and also cut the hatches, one to access the rudder assembly and the larger one to get at the batteries, motor ect. I made a template, then cut a pair of knees to fit on the bow, some bollards and a tow hitch were made from wooden dowels.
Finally dusted off the project, it's been sitting in the garage for some time, and the unfinnished wheel house got trashed (it was made from balsa). If I ran a bead of silicon sealer around the outside of the hull at around the midpoint of the overhang,that might just do the trick. While the design of the hull is based on a set of standards for the length, width, profile and rudder area, the superstructure can be constructed to suit the buildera€™s own preferences.
There is a list of internet sites providing resources for Springer Tug builders, at the end of the Feature. The shape of the hull side was drawn on a large sheet of paper, then transferred to a sheet of ply using transfer paper (like the old carbon paper we used to use in typewriters). Hull sides were cut out using a fretsaw, then sanded while clamped together, to get the curves just right. The shapes of the internal formers were worked out from the plans and checked against the actual parts. Although the shape of the hull sides is fixed, there is freedom to add internal bulkheads (or not), to suit your own taste. To help with skinning the hull bottom, there are two internal formers running fore and aft, made from 3mm ply.
A piece of dowel was drilled axially, to support the shortened rudder tube, and braced against the stern and adjacent former.
The hull of this model was skinned in two sections, because of the width of the sheets available, and it was an easier way of coping with the return bend. The bottom of the former is chamfered to match the hull, and it is easier to mark off for the chamfer before skinning the hull bottom, by cutting the former to width and holding it in place. Leave it a little tall, at that stage, and mark the actual height, then trim it later (but before glueing it in position). The servo is a Hitec HS 311 and the rod end couplings are ball ended aircraft couplings, to allow for horizontal misalignment (not that they are, of course; just that they might be), and any misalignment WILL strain the servo. Using two rods allows the servo to pull as well as push the rudder, and eliminates any tendency for the rods to buckle. The posts have flats filed along their sides, to help prevent rotation, once the glue is introduced. Cut slots in the plates, near the bottom, or instal the plates short of the bottom, to allow the motor plate to slide backwards to disengage the coupling.
Later, I put slit tubing down the rear edges of the reinforcing plates, to prevent the battery cables from rubbing.

The deck is of 6mm ply, and it was secured with Araldite and brass veneer pins (in pre-drilled holes). Tall coaming allows box-shaped hatches with superstructure to slide on and off easily but securely. Transfers were applied (Letraset) and oversprayed with 3 coats of gloss varnish, using the airbrush.
The initial coats of gloss varnish, lightly de-nibbed between coats, provide a smooth surface for the transfers, and the following coats of gloss help seal the transfer against the water. Windows were painted using gunmetal paint, and polished using a cotton bud, to give stripes which look like reflections from glass, looking into a dark interior (well I think so anyway). The overall effect, at this stage, is of a simple, blocky boat, and that is probably appropriate. There are lots of detailed bits lying on the bench, to be painted and added later, which may bring the basic boat to life. Because of the problems caused by the epoxy coatings on the hull, this was not quite as quick a build as it might have been, but then when was a project like this ever really accomplished swiftly?
The little holes at the bottom are drainage holes, just in case the water gets into the rear compartment.
On this model, they were an afterthought, and were cut with some trepidation after the hull had been glued together. Araldite around the prop tube was thickened with micro balloons; light and fluffy, but very effective.
The servo arm carries the ball end posts upright, with the ball ends on top, making for easy disassembly. The rudder post was left as long as possible, to give as much support to the rudder tube as possible.
The rudder arm comes close to the underside of the deck, so the posts and ball ends are mounted underneath.
These ball ends are a superb way to cope with any small differences in height or alignment which can cause normal ends to bind of jack themselves off, as the rudder turns. If you are adding formers, you do need to consider the size and shape of the batteries before you fix the formers in place.
The electronic speed controller is mounted vertically, under a hatch position, on the servo platform.
The receiver is also mounted on the servo platform, using a small home-made clip to allow easy removal. The controller is likely to get hot, and the hatch has two functioning mesh grilles to allow ventilation to stop the controller frying.
As a bonus, the programming button on the controller is near the top, so it is more easily accessible.
There is an aluminium plate under the platform, and the threaded rod screws into a tapped hole. Painting was begun with Halfords primer filler, then grey primer to kill the strong yellow of the primer filler. The bottom and sides were then sprayed with enamel paint: red Norfolk anti-fouling (White Ensign Models) and matt black (Revell no.
There are some small reinforcing strips under the flat platform on which the cabin sits, but they were probably unnecessary.
Curved plastic sections are best supported with appropriate formers on the inside of the curve, otherwise, the sheet can flex inwards as it bends to form the curve. The cabin has a floor and a curved inner piece at the top (both slightly smaller overall than the roof of the cabin) and the cladding sheet wraps around those formers. The sheet was softened in hot water and pre-bent by wrapping around a big tube, before finally fixing around the formers. The stand is a simple thing, with tall foam sides, and MDF base, and little feet to allow fingers under the ends when lifting the whole lot at the pondside.
The foam was from a sheet of thick insulation foam, and building it this way meant it was easy to mark out the shape just by laying the boat on its side, on the foam sheet. The foam was cut with a powered fretsaw running at a medium speed with a coarse pitch blade. Ita€™s not supposed to be an exhibition piece, but it is functional and it wona€™t matter if it gets bashed in use.

The front bumpers really need some serious padding, perhaps using rolled up pipe insulation or strips of foam, and the boat needs a rubbing strip all around the hull. This version of the Springer has no gunwales, which turned out to be interesting because the hull has a tendency to submarine at top speed. The main idea is to play football, or, in our case, duck sweep, in which a hi-viz duck is captured between the Springera€™s front bumpers and guided towards a dock. Some may say this is not scale model boating, and certainly not the kind of sailing undertaken by gentlemen, and, to be honest, theya€™d be right. This shows the hull upright, and the slight gap caused in the front by the strength of the plywood. The first coat of paint goes on except for the seams, where the construction adhesive was and hadn't dried yet. This is the steering wheel that came from my 74 super beetle I got for graduation back in 1990. I have had a few inexpensive small RTR boats, and thought it might be fun to try build something on a tight budget, that would be easy for a relative beginner in the RC boat building hobby. Build a upper hull and deck,that drops over the main hull,to the depth of the front and rear face plates?
This things going to weigh a ton,good job that she's only going to be used as a rescue tug,(albeit not a serious decked out one).
This is a little pusher tug built to a standard design, and designed for the hurly burly of playing football on the water. This simply prevents the thin ply bottom from buckling inwards as it is curved to fit the hull. They also serve to lighten the construction, which was already tending to be heavy looking. They are trapped there by extra sheets of 6mm ply which effectively form bracing boxes in the outer compartments. The breadth of the plates is to support the deck, but the motor mount needs to be able to move backwards, if you have to remove the motor, because of the coupling.
These Springers can get mighty wet, and this one often runs with the front of the deck completely under water, so effective coaming is essential.
It was more important to get the boat ready for the water, to build a little more enthusiasm. In this thickness of ply, this close to a thin bottom skin, this is an operation not for the faint-hearted. Nearly all of the little platform is accessible under a hatch, and the nut on the rod securing the controller is easily accessible in this position. I didn't think it was going to go, the wires were hot and it barely moved from the other side of the dock going back to this side. The 'Springer' design seemed to fit the bill, with a bunch of RC parts and some plywood ect.
Would I still have to worry about water ingress,or  would it be a bit safer,than a flush deck? The detail is a joy; but getting too involved with detail too early might delay the meeting between boat and water.
For fasteners I use stainless #8 of various lengths, TB3, liquid nails, and reclaimed deck screws that I had used indoors.
Where the bottom inverts, I had to add some pieces inside to suck in the bottom and hold it there. I drilled a hole in the dash front and back that was 1.5 inches and I put short lengths of pvc pipe into them for the shaft to ride on. I painted it with 100% acrylic exterior latex - 4 coats on the bottom, 3 on the decks and 2 on the wheelhouse. A hammer helped get it all in there and that straightened the bottom panel enough to get it all screwed down too.
I sort of eye balled it for the right look and a guess towards where it would balance in the water.

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