The information presented here is a basic start to finish, building of a wooden sailing model.
For builders wanting to cover their model with fiberglass A separate article will offer directions for covering a wooden star with fiberglass.
With the popularity of radio-controlled models, the number of people interested in owning a model yacht has also grown - in geometric range. Over the past 40 years I have fielded many questions regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a radio-controlled sailboat. Four questions are asked over and over by prospective skippers: How do the radio-controls work?
Thirty years ago started to write a, step by step, manual of sorts to assist modelbuilders that want to build a radio controlled ship models.
In 2006 John Fisher drew up the lines of the Star45 model as CAD (computer aided design) files. Over the past 30 years I have fielded many questions regarding the choices and considerations which go into selecting a radio-controlled sailboat.
The AMYA STAR 45 Class discussion group is a terrific place to exchange ideas and talk about building Star 45 models for racing in AMYA regattas. The new generation of wooden S45's began in 2006 when John Fisher drew up CAD files for laser cutting frames and building jigs.
John's frames are scaled from the lines of International Star Boat, John's 2006 hull's weighed in at one pound, far less than the original Dumas boats. With the building set up the next step is to lineup all the frames (if they are solid pieces they are bulkheads). Before ordering laser cut frames, decide on the wood for the hull sides if you want to meet the AMYA specifications (when planked the beam may not exceed 12 inches).
Billie Geisler's commented on August 1, 2006 in a post to the Star45 forum that he builds hulls from cedar rather than balsa. You will probably want to trace the outline onto the wood and cut close to shape before gluing it on.
The important ingredient is building a model where the Center of Effort and the Center of Lateral Resistance are lined up. You could also layer sheets of plywood and laminate sized pieces to achieve a airfoil shape.
The ballast bulb for the this model may be constructed of any material {ballast materials denser than lead is prohibited}. Wikipedia describes winged keel is a sailboat keel, usually of high aspect ratio, that uses a nearly horizontal foil, the "wing", at the bottom to provide additional performance.
If you race the model in AMYA regatta they may not be changed, interchanged, substituted or otherwise manipulated once any heat or series of heats in which scores will be compiled, has started. Ballast bulbs may be made from any readily available material, such as poured lead, lead shot, etc. Important to note that he Star 45 Class specifically excludes radio equipment, sail controls and batteries (power cells) from being considered ballast. You may want to place a piece of wood simulating the keel fin into the mold so you can attach the bulb to the fin. While we are working on a bare hull we must decide on the keel fin and how it will be mounted (attached) to the hull. The tubes were glued into the hull using JB weld since it has very good strength for bonding metal ( JB weld is the silver colored epoxy). AMYA Star 45 Class Rules, 2008 "Rudders may be constructed of wood, fiberglass, plastic, plastic laminates or metal. One way to build a rudder quickly and easily is cut out the shape in a thin material, tape the sides together, insert the rudder shaft, fill the inside of the rudder with epoxy. On a full size Star Boat the tall mast is supported by sliding back stays one one each side of the boat.
Some skippers use a servo to control the back stay tension or they link to sail winch to slightly tighten the back stay when sailing down wind.
The mast head fitting maybe a "T" shaped fitting or as simple as a small tube of rod through a hole drilled in the msst head.
The main boom of a model is linked to the mast by a swivel connector which allows the boom to swing from side to side. Typically the boom on a model needs to kept from lifting when the sails are not trimmed in hard.
To keep the main boom from flying up a "boom vang" kicker a simple device is set between the boom and the foot of the mast.
Originally on the old model the jib was loose footed and did not use a jib boom (aka a jib club). Typically a swivel is placed along the forward end of the jib boom and clipped to a deck fitting (aka jib rack). The driving force of the sails is changed when the air slot between the mast and jib changes. Instead of wooden or arrow shaft booms, airplane clips instead of the turnbuckles and so on.
Chain plates themselves can be as simple as a long screw eye bolt, as fancy as a jib-rack or tangs screwed into the side of a hull. Which ever style of chain plate the hull and deck must be braced (reinforced) to withstand the loads. Basically you cut the bottom panel seam flat, and draw your airfoil MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) and cut it with a #9 X-acto or scissors.
Battens are allowed on the mainsail but are restricted to 4 in number, equally spaced along the leech and may not exceed 8.50 inches in length.
At about $12.00 a yard, spinnaker cloth is twice the cost of fabric store ripstop, but spinnaker cloth is coated with resin that makes it far more stable and eliminates all porosity (wind can blow right through ripstop). Dropping a model into the stand can cause the stand to close up and pinch the model if the keel doesn't sit on the ground. IMHO, it is good practice to have models sit on their keels and have the weight of the model supported by the keel.
Phil Geren needed a cradle for a woodie Star 45 hull under construction to hold the hull while fairing the gunnels to the frames in preparation for installation of the deck and while designing and installing the controls.
Estimated delivery dates - opens in a new window or tab include seller's handling time, origin ZIP Code, destination ZIP Code and time of acceptance and will depend on shipping service selected and receipt of cleared payment - opens in a new window or tab. International Shipping - items may be subject to customs processing depending on the item's declared value. Your country's customs office can offer more details, or visit eBay's page on international trade. By clicking Confirm bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder. By clicking Confirm bid, you are committing to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder and have read and agree to the Global Shipping Program terms and conditions - opens in a new window or tab.
By clicking 1 Click Bid, you commit to buy this item from the seller if you're the winning bidder.
Some kits have photos included to guide you with the process of planking the hull, but as I found out the pictures generally show how it is not to be done.
Comparing the results of the research with the build of my first ship, I noticed that the planking was actually incorrect. When all measurements are done, compare the distances of the left and right side of the hull, notice that they should be equal for each bulkhead. Write down all distances in the table, and measure the width of the planks you are going to use.
The next step is to calculate the amount of material that has to be taken of the plank at a each bulkhead. The width of the material to be taken of each plank can be calculated by the difference between the largest distance and the distance of the bulkhead A. Of course, no one can measure 1.666666 mm, and that accuracy is not desired when performing the first layer of planks so a little trick can be used to speed up the process. It helps to put numbers at the markers to prevent any mistakes in lining up the plank against the wrong marker.


When planking the hull using the thick wood supplied then some problems might occur at the stern of the ship.
When the first half of the hull is planked from keel to the waterline, then the rest of the hull can be planked from the deck to meet the existing planking.
Make sure you keep following the marks you made or else there won't be any room for the remaining planks.
When all is finished the hull can be sanded leaving a smooth hard planking job strong enough to support the second layer (if you so choose). You want to check what the ideal length of planks is, regarding the scale of model you are building.
Hi, I am building a wooden "HMS Endeaver Longboat" I have finished the planking but I found it hard, especialy the first planking, I wish I had read your article on planking, my task would have been easier, hopefully my next plank on frame ship will be a bit easier! New Feature - Search the Forum's Amazon Associate without leaving the Forum's Site.Select from the drop down menu, enter your keyword(s) and hit "GO"! Fellow Shipmates', if you like this website, and would like to give something in return, you can make a donation (Please, small donations). Ship Modeling Forum - A web site forum devoted to the handcrafting of model ships and boats.
A model sailing craft operates with the same sophistication of design as any full-sized yacht. As with model aircraft, the choice of sailing models runs the gamut from child's toy to sophisticated craft. John Fisher, Phil Geren, and many members of the Star 45 Yahoo discussion group provided essential content.
He arranged for Steven's Aero to lazer cut the frames (aka bulkheads) and the building of S45's was revolutionized and the class gained world wide attention of modelers wanting to build a wooden sailing model. The hull can be a single type of wood or the bottom, sides and deck can each be a different wood.
John Fisher has been very cooperative in adjusting the drawings to accommodate builders needs. Make sure it is located correctly before starting gluing.Photo showing the planks after being trimmed close to the stringers. The fin may be solid or hollow and constructed of reinforced plastic, plastic laminates, fiberglass, wood or metal. With a heavy keel bulb hanging a the bottom of the keel you don't want the keel twisting and distorting as the model heels and changes position.
The Mainwaring keel and ballast bulb concentrates the weight, other long symmetrical bulbs may spread the ballast weight over 9 inches.
Insert a couple of long threaded rods parallel between the two sheets they create an airfoil and extend from the top for attachment.
The horizontal foil serves two purposes: it acts as an winglet on the foil, effectively doubling the aspect ratio, and they produce additional lift, but downwards. The use of Velcro or similar quick release fasteners is prohibited as methods of mounting ballast.
You may also want to consider using a two piece mold large enough to hold a lead pellet-resin mix ballast material and them epoxy or bolt the halves together.
There is a lot of equipment inside the hull so easy access to the nuts and bolts is required. The left hand drawing show the rudder of a molded fiberglass hull and the righthand drawing is based on the 2008 AMYA star plans. The crew makes adjustments while underway, when the boat tacks the active back stay is released and the other back stay is pulled into position. With a jib boom that uses a swivel-vang the tension on the back stay changes as the jib moves.
Vangs take a variety of forms from a turnbuckle, to a piece of fishing line to a line controlled by a servo to allow the boom to be pulled down or allowed to raise up. The addition of a jib club allowed the jib shape to be controlled.Like the main sail the foot of the jib will fly up is some type of vang is not in place.
This has the advantage of staying taught against the back stay as the sails are trimmed thus keeping the mast straight. Since the jib stay attached to the jib boom in this arrangement moves off center and is subject to varying wind forces the tension on the jib stay and back stay will vary. Maximum driving force occurs when the curve of the jib luff is shaped to meet the curve of the main sail. There is the load applied by the sails while under sail and there is the load as skippers pick up the model by the mast and carry it around.
I drill into the aluminum mast, push the wire out from inside the mast, swag a sleeve onto a doubled wire and pull the wire back and swag to the turnbuckle. It has been my experience that skippers grab the model hatch rim and lift the model to carry the model to to pick it up from the water.
Design your hatch sizes and locations to permit your hand(s) to access and remove these items.
Duddy's jig allows the builder to re-position the hull as it is being built and can be used to hold frames of different models.
Import charges previously quoted are subject to change if you increase you maximum bid amount. My first kit is build right out the box and also I used the photos supplied with the kit to guide me through the planking process. After marking all the bulkheads, lay a test plank from bow to stern along the marks on the bulkheads.
Now take the largest bulkhead distance from the table and divide the numbers with the width of the plank.
Perform this exercise by subtracting the largest distance with the distance of the other bulkheads.
So if the original plank is 5 mm in width then no more than 2.5 mm can be taken of the plank at a certain point. Using this method you are assured that the top planks follow the sheer (deck) line, and the lower planks follow the (garboard keel) line. So again create the measurement table, take all the bulkhead measurements and determine the width of a single plank at a given bulkhead. This problem is most evident at the bow of the ship were the bulkhead circumference is smaller compared to the amidship bulkheads.
Adding the fake frames, enables me to make the planks for the second layer shorter without losing consistency over the length of the planks. Also make sure that the layering and offset in the planking is equal on both sides of the model. Put some transparent table over the set of markers, then using a dremel of hand drill, drill the holes, remove the tape and put in the pin after applying a little glue ( the pin will expand in the hole ).
In the end i would not recommend the trunneling to novice builders ( I am a novice builder, but i make things hard on myself in general ). He cuts the rough edges and flats off with a 10 inch table saw, then use a 3 inch table saw from Micro- mark to cut the final planks.
Because the yacht is heeled over when sailing upwind the leeward foil is closer to vertical, and provides additional side force hence making the boat sail upwind more efficiently. The AMYA s45 class specifies such ballast shall be fixed in place by gluing, fiberglassing, or bolting (bolts and screws. However batteries (power cells) which are not ballast can be mounted with Velcro allowing them to be placed within the hull to change the weight distribution. Fill the second pan with plaster and lay the original plaster mold on top of the second plaster filled pan. I wire the bolt heads together and can easily remove the nuts, push the bolts out of the way and remove the keel.
The balanced rudder lakes some of the load off the steering servo The leading edge portion is pressured by the water flow as the model sails.
The model star boat replaces the two back stays with a single back stay from a mast head fitting to a back stay fitting on the transom.
The jib vang can be as simple as a swivel attached to the forward end of the jib boom and the jib-rack.


The radial filling attaches to the end of the boom with a gooseneck An rigid adjustable vang from the radial fitting to the jib boom control the lift of the boom at at set angle. Consider using short pieces if thin walled electrical tubing (shrink tube) which can be found in building supply places like Home D. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. I think, and this is also stated in certain books, that the planks always ran from bow to stern.
When this is done a table has to be drawn showing all the bulkheads and the distance between to two planks. Some planks might and some do not lay perfectly flat on the stern causing ridges to appear between the planks. Not only is planking with shorter planks more easy, also repairing the model is more easy, since only short lengths of planking have to be replaced. The nails look nice ( personel oppinion ), but they also make sure the plank does not come easily from the model, in case the glue fails. I would recommmend using the shorter planks, since the are far more easy to handle when they require tapering, but remember to check the scale of your model first.
Another way you can help to support the Forum is to purchase custom designed gifts from the Forum's Ships' Store, or shop for items in the Forum's Amazon Store.
I sailed my first model tethered by a string off the floats at the Wollaston Yacht Club, Quincy, MA, as a pre-teen sometime in 1947. We'll start with the hull and at the same time build other parts that will be as assembled as a finished model.
He imported thin ply for the furniture industry and the sheets were 50 inches by 50 inches.
The keel fin may be bolted onto the hull or go up inside the hull to be held i place by a keel trunk.
The windward winglet is closer to horizontal and hence produces a force directly downward, which gives a small benefit to the vessel's stability.
A common one is simply a short pin in the foot of the mast that sets into a mast step with series of holes. Some skippers want the rig to be set up stiff and the mast jack allows the mast to be jacked-up to re-tighten the stays. As the swivel is moved forward and aft along the jib boom the leach of the sail has more or less ability to rise. Consider not only woven materials but also consider plastics such as mylar and mylar composites. Also, but putting in the luff curve and using a bolt-rope main, you do have a sail with some draught to it, not just a flat sheet of cloth. Over-sew some corner panels, tack on some batten pockets and thread in a piece of weed-eater line up the hem of the luff and you are ready to put on your class markings and numbers. Mount the cradle frames on a 2'X4' piece of particle board, using the spacing of the balsa template included in the frames kit, and using a try square to get them vertical, and making sure that they are all on the same longitudinal center and all parallel. Before I started on another ship I did some extended research and ordered some books concerning period ship construction. It is best that the plank follows exactly the markers, but if not then adjust the test plank and rerun the measurement table in order to compromise for the deviation between the test plank and the marker.
Then lookup the plank width in the measurement table at that given bulkhead and sand the plank to that width. These ridges must be filled with either wood filler or a mixture from saw dust and white glue. Of course you can glue the planks together during the planking phase, but once the plank is glued it's difficult to get it off when a error slips in.
If the scale of the model allows for shorter planks then i will use the shorter planks from the time i wrote the articles, it?s just easier.
When appling the pointy nail add a little wood glue, the nail will absorb the glue and the nail will expand and dry, filling the hole nicely. Really I don't know; my current model is also made this way and it takes some more time, but the end result is more striking, however if i skipped the trunneling the hull would already have been completed. We also have a New Feature - Search the Forum's Amazon Associate without leaving the Forum's Site. Well suited for building by by the novice builder and skippers looking for a classic looking model to race. It broke away and was seen sailing off towards Rainsford Island a 21 acre island situated between Long Island and Peddocks Island. I've addressed these questions in "How to select Your Radio-Controlled Sailing Model" published on my MainZone Publishing blog. Having had keel fins delaminate within a year or two because of improper gluing I recommend using a very waterproof glue. There are suppliers that sell veneer that is paper thin that could be used for beautiful ply.
Winged keels are generally found on high performance sailboats, if they are not prohibited by class rules.
Having heavily waxed the balsa-bulb immerses it in the plaster half way to the bulb center line.
If the keel will be removable make certain the stub doesn't get keyed in and can't be removed from bellow the hull.
Another reason for using a mast jack is to enable a skipper to set up the mast once and then move it without having re-align the rig. Grommets in the corners are installed either with a seamstress tool or they could be ordered from Don Ginther at GBMY if he is still shipping, he was in the process of suspending operations.
If you buy a suit of sails order them to be made to the AMYA specifications for the S45 Class. Needless to say that the plank must be sanded to a smooth line going along all the markers. It is also possible to omit the nails when gluing in the planking phase, but its possible to plan the virtual frames such way that the nails can be avoided. I got introduced to the International Star Class while crewing on one in 1954 out of Quincy Yacht Club. While the outside dries off quickly the interior may stay wet if the skipper doesn't take steps to get the inside dried out. Aircraft suppliers also offer thin basswood plywood (basswood being the hard core from the balsa tree). They are only of benefit for yachts sailing upwind where stability and the ability to produce side force are important.
When deciding on the hatches for your model keep in mind access not only to radio and servos but also access to battery mounting locations. It is easy to prop the fin and trunk down into the hull from above and discover it can't be removed from the bottom when the deck is in place.
The sails usually carry a 5 point "Star Emblem" at least 2 inches in size (measured from point to point across the flat of the star.
Violete simply rolled up the plywood, wrapped it in brown shipping paper and sent it to me. Then he pulls out the balsa-plug covers the mold with (plastic) Saran wrap over places the waxed balsa-plug back in the mold.
Did you get enough nails with your kit to finish the model ??The research you have done is worthy of a real ship. The hobby glue used for years on other models may weaken or part ruining the boat so choosing a glue or adhesive is an important decision.



Plywood boat interior materials
Jet ski rental fort lauderdale florida
Used boats in st louis mo 105.7


Comments to “Wooden ship modeling techniques training”

  1. RENKA  writes:
    Whole lot of floating condos as effectively you just enjoyed the images naval architecture, together with.
  2. DeLi  writes:
    The following brushes are cheaper when.