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For now I've soldered all turnouts for the staging yard and most turnouts for Esperanza.
LOL - Good to see Engine #1 also being tested as I know it's an important part of the roster for an important part of your fan base.
Atlas 60' ACF Precision Design Boxcar, painted with CSX Blue and lettered with Microscale Decals.
Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome, but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1! Couple of questions; did you have to buy the detail kit (caboose ends, stove pipe, etc) separately?
Milepost 266.2Couple of questions; did you have to buy the detail kit (caboose ends, stove pipe, etc) separately? One thing to keep in mind, though: If you want to taper the ends of the guards so that they come together into a fine point (like the frog of a turnout), then you need to introduce an electrical gap somewhere. Because my bridge was actually two bridges in a row, I had to buy two bridge track pieces, cut and join them together because the Walthers bridge track is just short of 20 inches in length and the guard rails come to a point on each end of the bridge track section. For this layout, you need 4 Shinohara HOn3 #6 right switches and 1 Shinohara HOn3 #6 switch left, plus maybe 6 lengths of ME code 70 Hon3 flex track, to be cut to size. I would like to know a techniques for getting the mortar look in between the brick on HO plastic structures.
I use Polly S water base, (cement color) painted over the bricks, using wet q-tips to wipe off excess. Thinned down cement colored craft paint dabbed on after the building is painted and assembled. I shot this while visiting Rob Carey's outstanding Tennessee Pass layout in Portland, Oregon last spring. Jarrel started with a great, tough-to-beat photo, and it was soon followed by other oustanding pictures.
This is probably my favorite from the year, PL&M 2-8-0 568 switching the Voytas Produce Company in Portsmouth, VA, in 1958.


QUOTE: Originally posted by electrolove As I said in the first post, the drawing is not propositional. QUOTE: Originally posted by electrolove EL - The right most support for the upper level is in tension, consider replacing it with a chain or steel cable and turnbuckle for adjustment - like a truss rod freight car of the late 1800s early 1900s.
As stated above (nfmisso), your upper supports constitute a parallelogram, and will be weak. A couple of times, in the WPF threads, I've caught myself looking for the Show ME request after a posted picture. Silver Creek module is sold, the other modules will be stored under the layout and used at FREMO meetings.
Due to my Cholangiocarcinoma problems I will incorporate for the first time my modules Salina and Fiddletown. The one on the left is a BLI and the one on the right is a Proto 2K that I put on grab irons and train phone. Originally, as I understand it Helm Leasing bought several SD60 units from UP and recently Norfolk Southern purchased some of these Helm Leasing units and patched them. In an earlier step  I used the window frames as jig and cut the masking for the windows.
I have recently built a Juneco CP caboose kit but I was not happy with the appearance of the siding. Before assembly, paint each piece with cement colored paint and wipe it off before it dries.
Latex paint does not adhere that well to plastic, so it is easy to wipe off the surface brick faces, but it stays in the mortar lines.
The Kalmbach book on Building City Scenery details several techniques for coloring brick and includes formulas for mixing paints for various types of washes and mortar lines. It just shows the basic idea of the freestanding (not attached to anything) benchwork. Do you see any weakness in this multi-level benchwork design?
The 1x2s of the 2nd level may hold themselves, but I don't think they will stay straight and level over time with weight of scenery, etc. Bob K.


These were still attached to the siding and my attempts to remove them with a wire brush only made things worse. 70 or 55 (use n scale flex track - its easy to get and cheap).Also bridge ties tend to be both longer than regular ties and closer together.
I have had some good results with this but a lot depends on how the brick is embossed in the pieces. When you have it the way you want it, hold a can of hair spray (ask your wife or girlfriend for a type that leaves her hair stiff) and mist it over the wall.
Let me explan what I mean. The second level is attached to the leg at the back, that would not be strong enought.
B as far as ties are concerned on one trestle where it is difficult to see the tie lengths.
So when there is a force going downward on the second level the back will stay in place without lifting.
So when there is a force going downward (red arrow) on the second level the back will stay in place without lifting.
I have seen them used for upper level installations with great success, I am also considering using them for an upper level layout that is less than 20" out.
Also, since the Juneco kit is the only example of this type of kit that I have had exposure to, are other manufacturers kits free of the wood stuble? If any accumulated around details such as window sills, you can scrape it off with a scribe or small screwdriver. There is an MR issue that came out last year with an article on shelf bracket installations, just cannot remember the exact issue.
This one was done using the wet wipe methodThis building was done using the drybrushing method.



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