Bench plane numbering system,french oak coffee table,woodworking magazine sketchup warehouse - Reviews

Next step is lapping the sole and sides followed by replacing the plane iron and chipper with a heavier set from Hock Tools. By subscribing to the RSS feed you will be notified when new entries are posted on this blog. I was going to reapply the blue japanning but I am considering Parkerizing the plane body because I like the look of the clean and polished cast iron – just a personal preference. Forgot to mention that I used the Parkerizing process in the past with some ironwork detailing – worked out pretty nice. I was wondering about your innovation and not concerned about what you were doing to the plane.
I have a couple of recipies for blu & black japanning that I stumbled on doing a little research. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ.
In recent years there’s been an influx of imported lower priced value hand planes hitting the market.
My budget friendly solution has been to skip the cheap imports and build a collection of higher quality used planes like the venerable Stanley Baileys, Millers Falls, Record, Keen Kutter, Winchester, Union, Sargent, Craftsman, and the highly regarded Stanley Bedrock plane. One of the caveats of hunting down older planes is recognizing which are good and which were not so good. Stanley’s higher quality planes came from the Bedrock and Bailey lines, with the Bedrock being considered their elite line, but Stanley also offered a “Handyman” and a “Defiance” line that weren’t quite to the Bailey standards, as well as other “non-Bailey” economy planes under just the Stanley name. The Millers Falls premium planes used a numbering system that identified the plane by length in inches…8, 9, 10, 11, 14, 18, 22, 24. Record tended to keep the same name and numbering systems on all their planes which makes it harder to identify the eras of cheaper planes, but they definitely had some #04s that were crudely finished and eliminated the frog adjustment screw, so keep your eyes peeled. Here’s an even older Record plane – (Note the squared corners at the top of the blade, similar to the 1927 Bailey. There’s always the option of buying a Lee Nielsen, Veritas, or Clifton hand plane, which nearly assures you a flawless performer right out of the box, but if you can’t justify the price, or just enjoy resurrecting an antique, the older planes offer a great low cost alternative.
I’ve been going through all the same research to try to find some good deals on my 1st set of planes. This is very helpful and I appreciate all of this information.I am from the non experienced part of the market. Thank you very much for pointing this out to me… the info is very helpful in making my choices.
Pictures look awesome and help quite a lot to differentiate one plane from the other, many thanks.
It takes time and patience to learn how to tune these cheaper alternatives, but I enjoyed the educational process.
I agree that you can get the later model planes to work if you tune and sharpen them correctly. Woodworking Plane Woodworking Plane the quantity method for woodworking plans is arbitrary but has its roots in manufacturing woodworking plans produced by Stanley Business only Woodworking Plane . All parts have been cleaned of rust using the electrolytic rust removal process described in the prior blog entry. The Parkerizing process is basically just an immersion in phosphoric acid, which creates a fairly durable conversion coating that resists rust.


It makes the plane LOOK much more valuable than the standard bluing we’re all so used to seeing.
I did find a very close match to the original blue that was a Rustoleum Hi-Temp Blue paint. Most of the bigger names offered economy lines at some point in addition to their standard higher quality planes, or at least had eras of cheaper construction, which is one aspect that makes it a bit difficult for newbies to select good quality older planes. Though the Defiance line was good enough to be a fairly serviceable tool, I suspect the Handyman series will be a little tougher to get great results from.
It “looks” the part of a decent plane, but is not made to the same standards as the Stanley Bailey, Record, or Millers Falls planes of yesteryear. Then again, maybe you’ll choose to “roll your own” with a shop made plane….I haven’t done it yet, but I understand they’re not that difficult to make. I have been reading as much as I can before starting my plane collection.Unless I spend the money on new Lie Nielsen or other high end planes, I need to do a lot of homework.
These devices were the symbol of excellence of woodworking for eons and make some effort to learn and master. I was really impressed with how clean the parts were after the electrolytic de-rusting process. Before using any of these processes make sure you do not de-value your plane if it has value as a “collector plane”. Second, as this is a user plane, I wanted to see how well I could clean the iron as a reference for any future projects.
I saw a #5 on eBay the other day and thought is this some Frankenplane (put together from parts of other planes) or a forgery? In the lower price ranges, most newer planes use lower quality metal on all components, thinner blades, thinner castings, and poorer machining techniques. There’s usually still some sharpening and adjustments to be made, and often some elbow grease required, but overall many of these old planes simply have better bones to start with than a low cost import.
The vast majority of the Bailey type 19 and older planes are really fairly nice planes….those from the pre-war eras to up type 16 are very highly regarded. They also had an economy line that looked a little different and used a different numbering system. I’m not picking specifically on Groz…it could say Footprint, Anant, Great Lakes, or several other names on it, but the quality story is similar….even the more expensive Woodriver and new Stanley Sweetheart line are somewhat suspect when you consider the street prices. I haven’t found blade or casting metallurgy to be inferior, and thin stock Stanley blades perform quite well when properly sharpened. I also have new Stanley standard and low angle contractor grade block planes that perform quite well.
For carpenters one of the most essential skills of the hand are more adept at making use of woodworking plans Woodworking Plane .
I had initially planned on reapplying the blue japanning, however, I am now considering keeping the utilitarian look of the raw cast iron.
With an upgraded aftermarket blade, and some fettling, some of the low cost new planes can be made into useful tools, but many are an exercise in futility and frustration. There’s even replacement parts available if needed, either from sellers who’ve stripped them from older planes, or from select hand plane retailers who carry newer replacement parts (Highland Hardware and Lee Valley come to mind).
Most of these companies were in business long enough to go through several changes in business philosophies and economic changes.


Other variations of the economy line followed in subsequent years…#900 and #814, and a teflon coated version were the #9790 and #9140 respectively, as well as a 8900 and 9814. All have the potential to be whipped into shape, but just about every aspect of the components and construction is lesser quality, and is more likely to be prone to chatter and need a lot of tweaking…and there’s always the aggravation of settings not holding, or premature blade dulling from inferior metals.
Early Joiners frequently require "such as these aircraft to begin with?" As with many regions of woodworking if you ask two carpenters the same problem you will probably get 3 solutions (a single that will always be ' it depends '). Even those that are salvageable, won’t necessarily hold setting properly due to the inadequacies of the metal and machining. I’ve found that most of the better old planes have already been fettled and flattened at some point in time years ago.
The lower lines are often associated with less chrome, more painted parts, plastic handles, labels instead of engraving, lower quality thinner metals, rougher castings, less machining, stamped metal instead of cast, fewer adjustments, etc.
Unless you go with a top shelf plane, there’s always some risk of having some issues to sort through, but IMHO there’s actually less risk with the oldies than with the newer imports. I won it almost 25 years ago as part of a drawing at a local lumberyard (San Lorenzo Lumber) when I lived in Santa Cruz, California. Unfortunately, these cheaper handplanes often have the most appeal to the least experienced element of the market, which is usually the segment least capable of transforming a poor performing plane into capable plane, which can be extremely discouraging to someone trying to get started with hand planes. You can’t beat the nostalgia of a plane made in 1927 when Ford Model T’s were the norm, or a 1939 pre-WWII hand plane built when the world was a different place. Some companies identify their economy planes with name or number changes, but some, like Record did not. They certainly aren’t as nice as my Veritas planes, but I still use them successfully. These things were built to last by proud craftsman who offered their best on a regular basis, and spent a career perfecting their craft….it was the days before the bean counters, business moguls, share holders, and lawyers started convincing folks that greed was acceptable. I’m far from an expert, but my advice to newbies is to get familiar with parts and construction differences by comparing known higher end models so it’ll become easier to recognize the lower end lines.
Prices can go from next to nothing to upwards of way too much, but for me, part of the fun is deciphering the deals from the steals. I figured since it is going to be a user plane on my bench that I would experiment with techniques to clean and de-rust tools (for future project!). But more experienced woodworkers will agree that the plane normal bench is a good place to start. So, in summary, this is just a plane that needed some TLC with no collector’s value that now is getting a little too much publicity! Why ' bench plane ' actually refers to a group of woodworking plans we need to get a little more specific. The jack plane is usually close to 12 " -15" very extensive and usually referred to as a jack plane No 4 or No 5.
Members of this category are smoothing planes and jointer planes aerial and jack each have specific jobs and quality.



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