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Other parts include a site-made Z-brace, lag screws (which we painted), and a fruitwood stain we used to mimic assembly details of a door youa€™d find on an actual bar. On the wall in the backer location, make a small mark showing the center-line of the backer on the right side. There’s really nothing that says a€?I did thisa€? like making all the pieces to a project such as a doora€”something people touch and use everyday. Three winners will be chosen to receive the following prize packages, each will include: 1. If you're on Pinterest as much as I am, then you know sliding barn doors are, like, design crack right now. So naturally, I wanted a barn door for our laundry room makeover, if only because I can't find anywhere else in the house to fit one. Stick the boards together with plenty of wood glue, and then secure them with ratcheting straps for a tight fit while the glue dries. You want to get a nice, sharp bend, so go ahead and hammer the point all the way down if you have to. Go ahead and hammer on the steel with the casing inside; you won't be needing the case for anything, so it doesn't matter if it gets banged up. Also drill holes lower down on your bar where you want the screws to go - the ones that will attach the bracket to your door.
This bar is the same 1.5 inch solid steel as the door brackets, so just cut it to the length you'll need for over your doorway, and then drill holes spaced roughly 2 feet apart down the length of it. Oh, nearly forgot: you'll also want to install some kind of a door stop, so your door doesn't go banging into the corner wall or flying off the track. I've outlined the basics here, but if you want a much more detailed barn door tutorial (complete with diagrams and precise measurements), head over to this post by Jill of Baby Rabies. Step 6: Get the Cabot pre-stain wood conditioner and your foam brushes and quickly do a coat following manufacturers instructions.
Step 7: Get the Rustoleum Summer oak stain and foam brush and do 2 coats of stain following manufacturers instructions.
Step 10: Get out your polyurethane and yet another foam brush, and following manufacturers instructions do 3 coats of poly. Step 15: Pre-drill the holes for the lag bolts and washers, then screw in the washer and lag bolts.


Step 16: Take your plumbing pieces and put them together like what you see in the picture below. This entry was posted in Bungalow Restore, Furniture, Home Decor, T-Shirt Projects, Tutorials, Upcycled, Wood and tagged barn door, cat door, diy, diy barn door, stain, Upcycled. Awesome door, going to gather all materials to make one for a downstairs office converted into a bedroom. Lindsey, one other thing I should try and snag from you (since you’re so great at responding!) – about how heavy is your door?? Hi Karin- I used glue do the boards in between and clamped until dry and I removed the clamps after I screwed in the metal straps on the front.
The rail backer is a piece of 1-by and its job is to project the rollers and door slab past the existing door casing. They seem to work with just about every style, from ultra modern to shabby chic to vintage industrial, and they SLIDE OPEN. John and I looked for sliding barn door hardware online, and the cheapest price we could find was about four hundred dollars - and that's just for the hardware!
It doesn't require nearly as many power tools as you might think, either: just a strong drill and an angle grinder with a steel cutting disk to cut the metal rails.
The original pulley pin will probably be just a hair too short, so you may need to get a slightly longer bolt with a nut to hold it in place.
Make sure you drill these holes in the lower third of your bar, not directly in the middle.
This is important because you want your door's wheels to be able to roll over the bolts without hitting them. The door does overlap the edge by about four inches when it's open (the wall wasn't quite big enough for it to slide back further), but that's not an issue for us. Our stop is a simple L bracket padded with black rubber on the lower part of the wall by those two pipes.
We're still not done, of course; next I'll show you our plumber's pipe shelving and the super fun and steampunky way we've devised to hide our water heater. Get that orbital sander out and use an 80 grit to sand and shape corners and get the overally look you want. If you like this look then stop here and go to Step 10Step 8: After the summer oak has dried, get out the Verathane Cognac and a foam brush.


I may or may not have already known that about these boards, but I’ll make sure to measure the door out before buying the straps then. I am thinking if you stand on a scale with 1 board and see what one weighs then mulply that out?
Your door is great, use wanted to post that I did a barn door on an effenciency apartment about a year ago and I found the hardware at The Home Depot.
The door makes the space private, helps to deaden noise coming into and going out of the kitchen, and works great with kids.
Having the rail 6 inches above the head jamb looked great, and projecting it 3 inches proud of the rail on each side worked nicely, too.
That bit's not quite finished yet, though, so believe me when I say I'm probably WAY more excited to see this than you guys are. I know the door must be really heavy but do you have any issues with it swinging when you open and close it?
As the humidity goes up in the Summer, the wood expands, causing the door to bow and rub the wall. A barn door is a door slab that slides left and right on wall-mounted hardwarea€”stout rollers suspended from a steel bara€”in front of the door opening.
From a design standpoint it adds color, texture and function to an otherwise empty doorway. That’s wide enough to cover a little casing on either side of the door, but thin enough to slide fully open. Between the steel bar and the anchor is a half-inch steel tube, cut to about two inches in length. It will look like you just covered your whole door in red and ruined all the awesome patina..




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