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The little people in your life have to struggle in a world adult-sized objects, and I think that’s why they’re always so appreciative of furniture made to their scale. To make the project more elegant and keep exposed end-grain to a minimum, I capped the tabletop and bench ends with strips of wood. I opted for half-lap joinery to connect the legs to the supports; this adds legroom and increases strength. To begin making the top and bench assemblies, prepare your stock for the slats and the breadboard ends. Take a look at the plans and you’ll see that the slats for the tabletop and bench need tenons on both ends that fit into corresponding mortises in the breadboard ends.
It's always good practice to cut mortises before tenons, since tenon thicknessis easier to adjust after the fact than mortise width.
When a mortise is going to be close to an end-grain edge, as in the case of the first and last mortises in all the breadboard pieces, you need to leave support in place. Turn your attention to the leg assemblies and the angled half-lap joints I told you about earlier.
To cut the lap joints in the table and bench supports, set your dado blade to take a 5?8"-deep cut, which is half the thickness of the parts you’re working on. To locate the laps properly, the easiest and fastest way is simply to transcribe directly from the full-size plan onto the pieces themselves.
Get ready to put the leg assemblies together by drilling angled holes for pocket screws to attach the benches and the top.
Secure you leg assemblies with more outdoor-rated polyurethane glue and clamp them together. I brushed on an exterior primer, then sprayed a couple of coats of CIL marine enamel in Ensign Red, sanding lightly between coats. I protected the end-grain of the table legs from moisture damage with 1?4"- thick brass bar stock. Put the shoes on the legs and your table is ready to be moved to a sunny (or shady) spot in the yard.
Do you need a bench to fit in that corner under the window or to fit between the legs of your table, we will create it for you.
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This is a nice high back cedar bench, all natural northern white cedar, Bench is about 42" long 48" tall an 24" deep.
Frame is made from natural logs about 3" - 4" diameter back goes up about 36" and seat is about 22" on the back rest we use natural cedar branches to create a look we hope you will love.
Great benches for the great room or entry room, These natural cedar benches can even be used out doors.
Frame is made from natural logs about 3" - 4" diameter back goes up about 36" and seat is about 22" on the back rest on this style are natural half logs that we split here and sanded smooth The arms are at 28" up. Cedar log bar stools, these have a 30" seat height and are about 48" to the top of the back. Want a sturdy heavy bench, These are made from Black Walnut, All natural edges, Size can vary, this style will be about 12" wide and 48" long and 18" tall. Need that extra seating, these wide style benches are great, We keep the back shorter so they can either hide in the corner or slide under the table, Benches are 28" wide and 28" tall seat is at 18". Now the children can enjoy the comfort and rustic beauty of log furniture, As you can see this is the perfect fit for our 2 year old granchild Madox. Building this project isn’t difficult, and, since it’s small, you can afford to expend extra time and energy on the details.

I believe the classic design you see in backyards and parks everywhere has some real advantages—it’s a classic for good reason. This detail is called “breadboard” ends, and although it adds a lot to the project—including stability and durability—you can leave it out if you want to simplify the design.
The weak points of most picnic tables are the feet, since the end-grain surfaces draw up moisture. I decided to go with two specific sizes for the project: 1" x 31?2" for the benches and tabletop and 11?4" x 3" for the leg assemblies.
It’s important that the distances between the tenon shoulders on all these parts are exactly the same.
I used a hollow chisel-mortising machine to remove the wood, but you could also use a Forstner bit in a drillpress. I like to use a dado blade in my tablesaw for this job, although you can certainly cut tenons by hand too. A mitre saw is a great tool for the angled cuts on these parts, although a tablesaw works fine too, especially with help from that drafting square. It’s a good idea to lay all the parts for each leg assembly down together in their proper orientation so each piece of the puzzle can be seen in relation to its neighbour. Use polyurethane glue and stainless-steel #8 x 11?2" round-head screws to hold everything together. You simply need to make corresponding 45o cuts on each end of the braces so that they measure 151?2" between the long points.
In order for the wood to have a little tooth to hold onto the painted finish, I stopped sanding at only 80 grit. If you’re going this route, wear a respirator and goggles, and work in a well-ventilated area. Then I filed a chamfer around the edge on the bottom side, and drilled and countersunk holes in each shoe for some #8 x 1" brass screws.
The pictures below of our log benches are only samples of benches we have built for other customers.
Our benches are left as natural as possible, we do not mill any of our logs, Logs are selected from the forrest floor, We bring them to our shop and peel and smooth out the roughness and then each log is matched to fit your needs..
This free form natural log bench is a great convesation item, also be very comfortable bench is about 48" long 24" deep and 72" tall, with a nice size shelf, Also works as a tall coat rack if need be. Truley one of a kind item.This one is ready to go, sealed with a hand rubbed oil finish by minwax. In most cases we try yo leave the bark on the twigs, but sometimes after all the hard work it falls off any ways. The seat it self is made from natural round cedar logs that we split and slab into two in pcs.
We use the natural bark surface edge for the legs and center support, Benches are sealed with a rub on poly finish to give that deep luster glow.
These can also be made to fit your table or space, up to 96" wide, made from Northern White cedar. If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can use standard 11?2"-thick lumber cut to the right width, but remember to account for this change in dimensions when building the project. Bore overlapping, 3?8"-diameter holes in the area of each mortise, removing as much wood as possible before using a sharp chisel for final cleaning and squaring up. As you work, make absolutely sure that each lap cutout is located on the correct face of each piece. Use the 60o corner to adjust the mitre gauge, make a test cut on some scrap, then complete cuts on the legs before bringing one piece over to your full-size drawing.

Begin by making test cuts on a couple of pieces of scrap, then lay them together to check the fit.
You’ll find it necessary to alternate between the right- and left- hand 60o settings on your mitre gauge to complete all the lap cuts. An 80-grit paper creates an excellent surface for any outdoor finish that forms a protective film over the wood.
All stumps are different so flare will be different on each bench, stumps will range from 12" at base up to 16" at base.
Alternatively, you could use pieces of solid-wood composite deck stock or a rot-resistant hardwood such as white oak. I drew full-size end view of the table on a sheet of 1?4" MDF to make sure I had everything right. Make sure you have enough leftover scrap stock of both thicknesses to prepare test pieces while tooling up for the mortise- and-tenon and half-lap joinery later. Mark the shoulders of the tenons on the face of each slat with a sharp pencil, marking gauge or utility knife. If you’re using a tablesaw, use a mitre gauge to support the wood as you nibble away at the tenon. You’ll get best results if you fasten a 30" piece of plywood or hardwood to your tablesaw mitre gauge to stabilize your workpiece and reduce blade tearout along the back of each cut.
Clamp a stop block on your auxiliary mitre gauge fence and make the corresponding top cuts. Adjust the depth of the dado until you get a joint that touches in the middle yet is flush on the faces.
Use your drafting square to adjust the angle of the gauge and test the results against your full-size plan.
You could also drive #10 x 3" screws down through the top of the benchtop and tabletop into the leg assemblies, but pocket screws hide the fasteners.
Install the braces with a pair of screws on each end, fastening them into the bench supports, and the underside of the tabletop’s centre slat. Can be left natural to turn a nice silver gray, of finished with a exterior on interior stain to seal and protect.
We want your business and want to give you the best possible pricing on our high-quality hand crafted log furniture. Screw a sacrificial backing fence onto the mitre gauge to prevent tearout as the dado blade exits each piece. I wanted a smooth, relatively knot-free wood for painting, so I chose yellow cedar, but other great options are red or white cedar, hemlock or even an exotic wood such as cypress.
Next, clamp the slats into three assemblies: one with five slats for the table, and two with two slats each for the benches.
Using a chisel and a block plane, adjust the tenons for a perfect fit into the mating mortises. Now all you have to do is hold the corresponding breadboard piece into position up against the ends of the slats and transfer all the tenon locations to the faces of the breadboard ends. Draw an “x” in each mortise location to indicate where you will remove wood so you don’t cut in the wrong place.

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