Diy interior double doors,woodworking magazines free reading,golf clubs in pros bag,how to make wood sofa legs canada - 2016 Feature

I have an apartment built in the 1920's in NYC with double interior French doors to my living room (I spent a LOT of time fastidiously restoring and removing 80 years of slapped on paint).
You can get so they go in the top and bottom, you can get them in different finishes, like brass, or brushed.
Bear in mind the edge profile on the doors: I'm not certain if there's a door-specific term, but the edges of both doors where they meet are rabbited. After looking over their website I had actually called Antique House of Hardware for assistance.
I broke my back restoring these doors and I really need to find a suitable elegant lock solution ASAP. For those who are creating double-doors, divide your width measurement to determined the width of each individual door. Next, measure how tall you want your doors to be, and take into account about an inch for space between the door and floor. Once you know how many pieces of wood you plan to use for each door, mark each individual piece by the height measurement you took before. If you plan to use the sliding door system you will need to keep into account where the stud is that the track will be mounted to, as well as the length of the sliders. Flip over your door and repeat these steps, positioning your top and bottom wood at the same measurement.
Next, take a protractor and measure the angle that you will have to cut your wood, and mark the angle straight across with a pencil. This is a bit difficult to explain, but I hope the photo above can help show what I am trying to say. When building your doors, when you measure the height you need to take into account how much space you want separated from the bottom of the floor.

Hi Kristen, there’s a link in the post for how we created the hardware for the doors. I’m not sure how that works, try googling the problem – my platform is WordPress if that helps! Also, it looks like a lot of people have installed a reinforcement header board to mount the hardware to for extra support.
Our could sway forward if pushed, but we considered creating something so that wouldn’t happen but never thought it seemed overly neccessary.
I bought them from a little country store called Grampie’s country store or something similar in Nova Scotia. I have been looking for something to do with a living room close to my front door that is open. THe doors are begging for an elegant lock and the quick-&-dirty pics at the top of the thread really do not show off the doors in all their glory. Make sure if you are creating these doors to go along with the sliding track that there is enough room for them to open.
Remember this will probably be a bit less or a bit more than the measurement you took, since it’s determined by the amount of wood you are using. This is to create extra support to hang your doors if you are hanging them from the sliding track. Lay an 8 ft piece of 1×4 diagonally across your door from one corner to the other, the same way you would have drawn a straight line.
Again, drill pilot holes through the diagonal piece into each vertical 1×6, and then drill your screws through your pilot holes. I have been wanting sliding barn doors for our office that opens to our family room, but the price of the railing alone has held us back!

My question is that I didn’t see in your tutorial where you said what the horizontal piece of wood is on the backside of the doors at the top? If you use thinner wood like I did (which allows the doors to be lightweight) adding this piece of wood adds thickness and security for the sliders to hold onto the door. I built these for our master Bathroom, cant wait to hang them once the master bath is finished. Some people prefer to use a conditioner on their wood prior to staining to ensure the stain takes to the wood evenly.
I’m in the process of building my own barn door and this is the best step by step I’ve seen so far!
The only things I did differently was I didn’t pre-drill the screw holes (I used pine and it is soft enough to go through without any problems) and, the best part, I screwed the Z boards from the BACK of the door = no visible screw heads! Now I have an idea thank to you, my husband can totally do this and it will look really cute. Also, we don’t find the doors drag because the 90 degree elbows bring the pipe out from the wall, allowing some space between the walls and the doors. Unfortunately, I don’t have a cost break down, but I can assure you building both the doors & the hardware was fairly inexpensive!

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