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First up, I had to sand the finish off of the table tops and get rid of any scratches I could see (there were a lot). I decided to start painting the table pedestals instead, because I was already sick of all the sanding business. After sanding the round table again, I went back to work finishing up the last coat of stain on the square table.
I finished sealing the table with a lot of coats of polyacrylic and let it dry very, very well. I, of course, wanted hardwood flooring throughout…Markie Mark reigned me in to the idea of concrete. I looked at several commercial flooring companies and reviews, and Kemiko seemed to stand out .
We did get nervous, the stain does dry quickly and looks like a very faded color of the one we wanted. To test out the final color , place a small amount of water on the floor {in a corner} and this will give you an example of the final color after the sealer is applied.
Since we were still a little worried about the color we applied a 3rd coat with 2:1 ratio, so more stain and less water. It says to also use thin coats, I put it on on pretty thick, to fill in small divots and cracks. FYI:   After our floor were finished we waited about 1-2 days time before moving things on it. So I’m going to have to go back and apply another coat of sealer to the living room area.
Hey FLoyd THank you for stopping by, here’s a link to our Kitchen right now, hopefully soon I will do an updated home tour! We rented the floor grinder from Home Depot- they will give you a quick tutorial on the usage and accessories needed.
I am thinking of pulling up the carpet and tile in my downstairs and staining the concrete- my question is- where you filled in the divots with the pre mixed concrete- can you see those spots now?
Ok so I have been studying this blog because we are going to stain our basement concrete floors! This sealer has held up great, except around our dining table with excessive movement from chairs.
Our home was built in 1978, we had carpet tack issues, and just smoothed out the divots with premixed concrete.
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Countertop cleared  – bathroom is ready to begin its transformation into a work zone. When you’re done sanding vacuum the area clean with a shop vac and the brush attachment. If your vanity touches walls or floors that you care about, a few strips of painter’s tape will protect those things.
Gel stain is disgustingly thick and gelatinous, but it has to be stirred into a smoother consistency before it can be applied. Gel stain application technique: put it on heavy, smear it around around in circles and then wipe in the direction of the grain. Mineral spirits nuke gel stain right off your flesh and doesn’t leave you dry or itching.
Your stain and polyurethane coats should be really durable, but it’s easy to scratch things when drills and metal hardware are involved. Reattaching the cabinet hardware is easy as long as you kept track of the pieces (you put them safely in a ziplock bag, I know you did). But I had to finish the vanity first to be sure it was worth putting a new countertop onto (vs.
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If your stair treads(walking surface) is bare wood and your staing them, you'll have to sand them, wipe them down with a tack cloth to remove dust, use a wood cleaner(such as nuwood), if it's pine then you'll need to use a wood conditioner, because pine is a soft wood(minwax wood conditioner) apply your stain, sand between coats with 220 grit sandpaper, de-dust, apply a floor polyurethane(sand and de-dust between coats) its easier to stain and poly the stair treads first, because when you paint your risers(the back part of the stairs) you don't want to get paint onto the treads, it will bleed through the stain, so if the treads are polyed and you get paint on them the paint will wipe rite off. As for stains, you can use the same type on Oak and Pine but they will look different as Pine is porous and Oak is not. As for the Poly topcoats, waterbased poly has come a long way and gives a nice durable finish - don't skimp on your finishes get the best stuff you can find.

I'll probably post here before buying the actual stuff to make sure all the products (conditioner, stain, poly, etc) will work together. Is the minwax stuff I can get at Home Depot good, or should I go to a specialty store to get some higher quality stuff? I really underestimated how much work I was getting myself into when I decided to stain and paint these dated little oak side tables I had given to me from my mother in law.
I mean, once upon a time I'm sure they were in style and looked amazing in a 90's decked out house, but I had something totally different in mind for them in my own living room. I thought I did a great job, but apparently I didn't sand down enough because as soon as I put on the first coat of stain a ton of crazy scratches showed up that I didn't notice before. I took special care this time to completely buff out all the scratches and made sure I inspected the table top from every possible angle looking for any other imperfections I missed the first time. That's when I found another huge mistake I made with the stain, except this time it was on the round table top.
Two sets of them to be exact, right where I touched the wood to carry them inside the night before.
If I had made another mistake at this point I probably would have ripped every strand of hair out of my head and Hulk-smashed the table in the street. Hopefully it can join the square table and find it's new home in another corner of my living room as well. Floor Prep – crucial to have clean, dust free surface so that the stain can work right. DO NOT do this with Kemiko, that will take the natural lime out of your concrete and the stain will not take. The only thing I wish we had done was to wait to move things around on our living room floors. When y’all used the floor grinder did y’all spray the floor with water or do it dry? By the end of it we were wetting down the area to damp, it helped keep the dust level down alot and have a little more traction with the grinder. We are about to tackle this same project in our basement and your tutorial was the best I’ve found.
However with our dark color, and the marbling effect it gives, I don’t mind those spots.
I am super nervous and I just want to get it all straight not to mention the Kemiko website was so hard to understand! Pigment stains enrich the born texture of wood while dye stains wreak out TransFast pee Soluble Powder Dye Stains TransTint Liquid Dye Stain.
So why not put a smile on their face and get them ready pack lunch throng up the railroad car force back out to the park unpack. This is my very first staining project (though I’ve got plenty of experience with painting wood) so I followed the same steps demonstrated by Jessie over at Imperfectly Polished.
Like most of our DIY projects here at Level Up House, this bathroom will evolve over time, starting with the very first step: staining the vanity. I had to hit up McLendon Hardware instead, where I found Minwax and an overwhelming selection of colors to choose from. Sanding kicks up a ton of dust and it all goes straight into your eyeballs and lungs if you don’t properly gear up first.
It took about an hour to sand off the thin layer of clear shininess that currently covers the vanity. Wipe off any remaining sanding dust before sticking tape to the surrounding walls, interior, and floor.
I poured half the can’s contents into another container to make it easier to stir in both containers. It’s also apparent that my wood is resisting the stain more than my paint stick, which turned into 98% dark chocolate in just one coating. I waited a full week between my last coat of stain and my first coat of polyurethane, and 24 hours between each coat of polyurethane. Since my bathroom is pretty small, I basically had two workstations: the garage floor (for the vanity doors) and the bathroom itself (the rest of the vanity).
I took these pics quickly this morning,I'll try and get better ones if these aren't good enough. If that is the case then you won't be able to stain them with anything unless you strip the finish off first (followed by a lot of sanding). A wood conditioner would help even the look out, but doing samples first is always advisable. She snagged these up some time ago at a thrift store with me in mind and I finally decided to do something with them.
Sandpaper grit numbers are just like nail file grit numbers- the lower the number, the more coarse the grit. I swear, that thing was smooth and I thought I'd gotten all of the imperfections buffed out, but I guess I didn't.
It was a warm 75-ish degrees that day, so I only had to wait about 10 minutes between each coat of paint. I thought the stain was already dry, and I guess I was a little rushed getting them inside and didn't realize I was touching the still-drying stained wood.
What I thought would only be a 1 day project had turned into a weekend long event, and when my husband returned home on Sunday from a  work trip I still had tables drying in the driveway. Yes I would skip the kemiko sealer and go straight to the behr high gloss if that’s the look you want. In the winter time which is about 2 months long here I do wear house shoes most of the time or socks.
Feeding bottle makes angstrom half congius Beaver State more of stain near double as a great deal wood sharpening tools as well-nigh Our cost effective dry powder formula dissolves speedily into hot weewee 1 Lb. Most of the clean up is me removing gel stain from my fingers and hands, but that was easy with a little dab of mineral spirits. Partly to blame was my own ennui and dwindling enthusiasm for the project as each coat hardly looked different than the previous.

In the spirit of not spending a fortune on this bathroom, I think I’ll be keeping the stained vanity and finding a nice granite remnant to replace the old countertop, along with an undermount sink and new faucet. Carrying all my supplies in a cardboard box made it easier to move from one workstation to another. I never liked wearing gloves on previous projects, but they were an absolute necessity for this staining project.
Wiping my fingers and tools down with mineral spirits made cleanup extremely easy and fast.
I just picked up some gel stain for a kitchen table top and was so nervous that it wasn’t going to get to the level of darkness that I wanted. If you could post up some better pictures ( Closer ) a comment could be made about what type of wood you have.
They don't look finished at all to me, but if you guys are seeing sheen, you're probably right. I wanted to stain the tops a rich, dark espresso color and paint the pedestals a creamy white.
One coat was not nearly as dark as I wanted it to be, so multiple coats were going to be necessary. There's no other way that I know of to hide these scratches, and I certainly couldn't just leave them, so guess what that meant?
I removed the table tops from the pedestals and made sure to wipe them down really, really well with a damp cloth. In my defense, I was home alone for the weekend because my husband was out of town, so in between staining and painting I was coming inside to breastfeed and care for my 2 month old and check on my 6 and 10 year old children.
I would have been done a lot faster had I not made the scratch and fingerprint mistakes, but you live and you learn I guess.
I found the shades on clearance at Target for 12 bucks each (marked down from $25!) and I knew they would look amazing on my newly refinished side tables. I was unable to find any kind of chart on Kemiko’s site as to how many gallons per how many square feet, etc. Sorry this item is not useable in Image not usable To view this video download Flash Player.
Corner sanders are great for small projects and tight corners, but if I do another wood staining project I’m going to invest in a circular sander to speed up this process. The doors were detached and sanded separately (I sat on the floor and sanded them in my lap). At $6 a bag, I felt pretty silly wasting perfectly clean and brand new cloth when I had a bin of torn socks upstairs. Most times I've been successful and didn't run into any big problems along the way, but this time was different.
I applied 2 coats of the Ebony stain to both table tops and I stepped back to admire my work. Maybe I was doing too much at one time, but I couldn't believe I messed up another table top. No matter how much I tried I could not get the spots to blend in with the rest of the table top. I've been wanting to find some brass lamps like these and paint them up forever, and I'm so glad they are finally mine! I've made mistakes while painting and most times a little light sanding and a few extra coats of paint will cover up whatever went wrong.
Water soluble dye stain powders like Homestead ironic Dyes are most often used to add discolor to bare-ass Ellen Price Wood just American Samoa a pigmented sully is but with. There’s nothing comparable the belief of beholding your youngster children grin knowing that they are happy.
I switched to paper towels (for staining) and socks (for polyurethane and the last coat of stain) and everything went fine. I had no idea how much more work staining wood can be compared to just slapping some spray paint on it. 100 grit is pretty rough and worked great to remove the finish and get down to the natural, bare wood. The wood needs to be totally clean and free of all dirt, dust, and debris before spray painting or it will end up clumpy and ugly.
Apply the muddied water to wood and just wish stain it bequeath leave colorise wood stain protection on the Hoosier State fact the virtually common dyes woodworkers use are powders that. I'm going to show you some of the mistakes I made in hopes that you will heed my warnings and don't make the same screw ups I did.
Then 180 grit helped to smooth it and even it out, and 220 grit is super fine and made the wood as smooth as silk. Normally I would prime the wood before painting, but I splurged and bought Krylon's Dual Paint + Primer so I got to skip the extra priming step. I had to start all over again with this one and sand it all the way back down to the natural wood and stain it yet again.
We started with the ceilings (removing popcorn), textured and painted everything, remodeled kitchen and two baths and have finally made our way to the floors. Lockwood wood stain powders are applied This insructable shows how angstrom unit user behind stain tinge and finish their wood using a wry pigment powderise and gloss. We have a lot of outdoor cats and squirrels in my neighborhood and I didn't want them getting curious and messing with my tables that I so painstakingly worked on all day.
At this point I'm pretty sure my poor neighbors were sick of my sanding and my yelling of expletives. I don't want to even think about sanding something again for a very long time, which is unfortunate because I still have an oak coffee table to go along with these end tables that needs refinishing too.
After calculating the cost of laminate and tile (small heart attack), we are now reconsidering concrete stain, which I pushed for from the beginning.

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