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The 19th century produced a European version of the kline, the chaise lounge, which is, in turn, the predecessor of this lounger. This project aims to enhance the lazy summer day’s experience of a cool drink and a good book.
Using the top end of your plywood stringer template, transfer the shape to the wood you roughed-out for the backrest stringers. You'll find that this second side takes a bit of patience, since the slats you put in want to wiggle out as you work on the others. Once all the slats are loosely in place, persuade the one-inch dowel into place between the stringers as a final assembly step. Duplicating the assembly process with the backrest will be a snap after the practice you've had.
With these parts in place, measure the distance between them and cut a length of dowel to go between the parts.
Whether you're at home next to the barbeque, at the cottage or eating peeled grapes while discussing Plato, you'll enjoy the fruits of your labour relaxing on your own version of the kline lounger.
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The kline was also used at social gatherings involving wine, music and conversation, the same things we enjoy when relaxing outdoors in Canadian summers. Today you’ll find the lounge chair in prominent use around pools, on decks, at the cottage or on the topsides of luxury ocean liners. And better yet, although this simple, elegant design is long on history, it’s short on construction time. I used a weatherproof glue for securing the slats, beginning with those on one stringer first. I fixed this problem with a loose pipe clamp installed across the stringers at one end of the frame.
Clamp the lounge along its length when all pieces are in position, checking again for spacing and check for square before allowing the glue to dry.
If you've made your stringers curved, custom-cut the support strip to match this shape using the stringer template as a guide. Fasten the two adjuster pieces to either side of the backrest using two-inch bolts and washers. The stringer shows a screw but not what to put in-between the wood so the back can swivel freely.
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We bring to you inspiring visuals of cool homes, specific spaces, architectural marvels and new design trends. Draw the profile for the stringers on this material, including an optional freehand undulation behind the seat back and where your hips will rest on the lounge.
Once you're satisfied with this positioning, mark where the centre of each slat will join with the main stringers.

I used a Forstner bit for this job because it cuts such clean edges, although you could use a sharp brad-point bit instead.
The plans show how the washers act as spacers, ensuring that the backrest adjusters operate freely. The table surface itself is made using the same method as the lounge, with slats connected to edge pieces. This not only saves time, but glue squeeze-out won't stain your project as it would bare wood. Adjust the slats so they're all square to one stringer, then let everything dry before repeating the process with the other stringer. It also helps to keep a scrap of wood underneath the slats, so they don't fall down if their biscuits happen to pull away from the wood. Toned Chaise loiter for FFA DIY piece of furniture Plan from Ana get to forest outside chaise longue Outdoor chaise lounge plans free mill around for This is my dream authorship spot double chaise lounge outside We already cause plans. When the table is ready, clamp the L-shaped runners to the underside of the lounge, then slip the table in place.
When you're happy with the sliding action, mark the rail positions and remove the assembly.
You'll need to attach the leveler pieces to the runners before securing the assembly to the lounge.

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