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As soon as I put the door back in, the frame remained rigid and perfectly square.  And best of all, I KNEW that the door would fit after it was installed, because it was never removed during installation! I’ll admit, when I was left with this big, massive space on the left side of the door frame (which was bigger than it looks in this picture), I initially had my doubts that this door would end up looking decent.  But there was nothing to worry about!  The trim covered it all up, and made the finished product look great!  And if your gap is even bigger, then just buy wider trim! So have you ever installed a prehung door?  What tips would you give?  And did you do it the “pro” way, by removing the door first?  Or did you do it my way by keeping the door in the frame? Ladies, there is a very easy way to hang an interior door that I found after doing some research of my own when redecorating my condo. I’m hanging my first interior door in probably 2 decades so I figured to bone up on the technique. You do want the hinge side as solid as possible, it is doing ALL the work supporting the door. For installing any kind of Pre-hung door, Interior or Exterior just use the brackets they sell at home depot in the interior door aisle.
Again thanks for the tips as I might try your method first when I get to the part of hanging my prehung doors. I have purchased a prehung door last week , but I did not understand how to install a prehung door i read your post and may it will help me to install. The reason the pros tell you to remove the door is so that you can get the hinge side shimmed and level without the door in the way.
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If your interior doors are severely stuck, rubbing, scratched, have holes, damaged beyond repair, or just don’t fit with your style, installing new prehung doors will sharpen the appearance of any room in your home and provide easy, daily operation. Replacing an existing door with a new prehung door may take up to an hour, depending on the condition of the opening and your skill level.
Using a pry bar, separate the door frame from the rough opening lumber and remove it from the opening. Align the outside face of the hinged jamb on both sides, ensuring that it is flush with the face of drywall on both sides.

Align the outside face of the latched jamb on both sides, ensuring that it is flush with the face of drywall on both sides. Secure the remaining portion of the door frame with finish nails through the latched jamb and tapered shims. Once you have ensured that the door can close to the door stop and come to a complete rest and you have noted the consistency of the gap around the door, you can set the finish nails, remove excess wood from the tapered shims with a handsaw or a utility knife, and install the remaining door hardware. After installing the new prehung door you will want to putty the nail holes, touch up the paint or apply another coat of paint, and finish the opening with wood trim around the door. My only comment would be that I would have shoved it up against the wall on the hinge side and shimmed the heck out of the doorknob side. I have to do some projects when hubby isn’t home to avoid those differences of opinion. We need a new front door BAD and I was thinking, “that’s a really big gap for an extrerior door! If you can get split jamb doors with preinstalled casing trim (jamb comes apart at the stop), Lowes sells them in certain parts of the country, that has the casing (trim) already installed, all you have to do is remove the split jamb up to the stop and hang the door by only nailing through the casing. If you hang the hinge side slightly higher than the lock side, you have play to adjust for a perfect reveal both on top and lock side.
I live with my husband, Matt, our dog, Boo, and our cat, Peeve, in our 1948 fixer upper that I'm remodeling pretty much by myself. Rosenfield has just spent an hour and a half installing this enclosure, one of about 40 he puts in every week for Banner Glass Shelmar of Waltham, Massachusetts. The frameless systems, while elegant, require thicker glass, expensive hardware, and flawless fabrication.
Installing a prehung door after removing an existing door isn't as difficult as you might think. Keep in mind that prehung doors are sold in standard sizes, and you should match your measurements with the nearest standard size.
Depending on the type of material and your personal preference, the new prehung door should be finished with either a paint or stain. This separates the paint and helps to ensure a clean removal of the door casing from the wall.
Tack tapered shims to the surface of the rough framing to create a vertically plumb surface from which to work. It is helpful to have an extra set of hands at this point to ensure that the door doesn't swing and twist the door frame.
Use two finish nails, one on either side of the door stop, near the location of the door hinges. Be sure to not drive the screw in too far, as it may cause the door frame to draw inward toward the rough opening framing. It should be consistent from floor to top jamb on both sides and along the top of the door.
Prior to joining Buildipedia, Jeff's work experience included carpentry, construction documentation, specification writing, construction administration, project management, and real estate property inspection.

I’ll trace something to cut out a piece of wood- he wants to measure and measure and then measure again.
Next time you install a pre-hung interior door, have one side cased while still framed and square. Next time you introduce a pre-hung inside entryway, have one side cased while still surrounded and square. Tempered-glass shower enclosures are permanent and easy to clean, and have a sleek transparency that makes a bathroom appear bigger. Determine the width of the door opening by measuring the space between the inside surfaces of the door jambs. Any inconsistency, where the jamb pinches toward the door, might be a location where the door could rub the frame in the future.
It will conceal the void between the door frame and the rough opening framing and provide for a neat and finished appearance. One concern: I notice you have what looks like continuous flooring, but if someone has a threshold, it would be centered in the opening, and a door shimmed to one side might not look centered over the threshold.
The reason the pros remove the door and you did not find that necessary is that solid wood doors are HEAVY!
This will also help you balance the gap and be able to nail it in place by tacking the casing to the wall. This is because you fastenened directly to the king stud, which is never perfectly level up or sideways. While I like the EZ hangers I would still shim the lock side above and below the lock, and at each hinge for long term stability.
This will likewise offer you some assistance with balancing the crevice and have the capacity to nail it set up by attaching the packaging to the divider. The gap should remain consistent around the door slab: up the hinged jamb, along the top jamb, and down the latched jamb.
If you thought the jamb without the door being flippity floppity was a problem, imagine what fun it would be to try and hold the jamb in place with a heavy door swinging back and forth pulling at it … while you are making adjustments to the shims from both sides at once, while holding the level and holding the nail in one hand and the hammer in the other.
Also if the king stud warps even more as the years go by you can get more problems with the fit of the door on the stop and your reveals.
Trim it around of the top of the door is a best idea, but a well-crafted of the style of the trim will make it better looks. This style could be for the door in the office or study room, with the glass door trim with the white wood make it more perfect looks. I am also use casing on my entry way in my house and with the light brown walls color to create elegance looks. Also you can case around your doorways without a door will make it elegance if your casing colored with brown and for the wall with white color.

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