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This workbench, from the Getting Started in Woodworking video series, is easy and inexpensive to make.
When I got interested in woodworking, I thought it was all about the tools and started collecting them quickly. A woodworker won't get far without a solid workbench of some kind, with a vise made for woodworking. That's why we created this workbench for our free Getting Started in Woodworking video series.
For a SketchUp version of the bench, visit the Google 3D Warehouse and download a model drawn by Jack Wilson of Fort Worth, Texas. ElPescador writes: I have the same question as Damon and was hoping Asa or someone else from the team might answer. As I am in UK needed to convert everything to metric and could not source the table top fasteners so I made some 'buttons' instead which work well. I am going to laminate some 2 x 4's together for a new top, since I need a flat surface (or buy one of those premade laminiated maple bencg tops), and reuse my existing base.
I am not a fine woodworker or cabinetmaker, but for years I have been frustrated by perceived budget constraints that kept me from getting my tools out of rubbermaid totes in the basement and setting up my garage space as a usable shop with a proper bench that can handle anything from planter boxes and rustic adirondack furniture to bicycle and lawnmower mechanics. By using your well engineered design dimensions and fantastic economy of material, I was able to cut back farther by substituting OSB for MDF and by utilizing 2 x 4 construction with overlapping but joints I could eliminate the 4 x 4s and truss rods.
It is darn near impossible, or maybe just really relly uncomfortable, to do this without some sort of bench or table. FINISHING: I used a dark Danish Oil throughout (thanks to FWW members) and put a Howard’s Bees Wax conditioner on the top to make clean up of glue and the like easy. For those considering this remember to buy the screws I site PLUS, remember your small supports will have to be 1 inch shorter (16 inches). You guys indicate that this is good to help out people with no workbench who want one, but don't have a bench to make it on.
A mortis and tennon jointing system would have been much more beginner friendly and easy to make.
ColdGord writes: I had a terrible time putting the holes and counterholes in the right place.
I haven't finished the project yet, but the closer it gets the more I can see this is going to be a solid bench.
Free woodworking plans, projects patterns , This is the free woodworking plans, projects and patterns category of information.
Folding sawhorses - rex - woodworking community, I recently had a need for some sawhorses. How build suspended bookshelves family handyman, Build this simple set of book or display shelves in a single weekend. The guy - reviews diy woodworking projects, The guy source unbiased reviews type . This simple-to-build and super-strong workbench is just the project you've been looking for.
When I first began teaching at our school, I noticed that many of the rasps and files our students were using had a gooey buildup of masking tape around their tips.
Felt is soft, it adheres well to the rasps by allowing its teeth to hook themselves into its matrix and once you wrap a strip of felt around itself, the loose fibers from both faces of the felt “scarf” cling to each other keeping it in place. Lastly, unlike the masking tape approach, felt can be removed easily to allow for a thorough brushing of the rasp or file. Felt is soft, it adheres well to the rasps by allowing its teeth to hook themselves into its matrix, and once you wrap a strip of felt around itself, the loose fibers from both faces of the felt “scarf” cling to each other keeping it in place.
Yoav teaches woodworking at the Rudolf Steiner School in Manhattan, and also frequently guest teaches in craft schools across the country.  Between 2003 and 2011 Yoav  headed the woodworking program at Harvard University's Eliot House.

Yoav has a degree in architecture and later held two competitive residency programs: at The Worcester Center for Crafts in Massachusetts, and the Windgate Foundation Fellowship at Purchase College, New York.
I actually use Kevlar gloves, but I suppose that not everybody has those, so this sounds like a great idea. I am getting ready to make a handle for a float that I made and I will be using both rasps and files, so I will give it a try.
Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years.
So you may be wondering what in the Known World possessed me to use an old recycled door as a tabletop. As for finding an old door, my local recycling center had about 50 of ‘em, all for $5-$10.
If possible, smooth or otherwise plane the sides of the wood boards before you dowel and glue them together in step 1.
When staining with tinted polyurethane like I did, keep a cloth handy to wipe drips — it gets tacky VERY FAST and is hard to wipe up later. Also, it’s probably not clear who wrote and made this table, but it was me (Genoveva), working on my own. But I quickly realized it was a struggle to get anything done on sawhorses and wobbly shop tables.
If you've made it… please snap some pictures and post them in our gallery, like masswood who uploaded photos of his bench. We relied on inexpensive lumberyard stock and rugged mortise-and-tenon joinery to construct the base.
This blob of glue and paper was there to protect our students’ soft skin from the coarse surfaces of the tools as they were holding the rasp to shave away wood. This last characteristic is a winner, as you don’t have to worry about re-wrapping the felt scarf around the rasp every time you lay the tool on the bench.
I occasionally use them whenever I need to sharpen a long blade free handed, such as an axe blade or a drawknife. But if you want an authentic-looking, wooden trestle table that you can take to events, or even use as a craft table in your home, do I have some woodworking plans for you! In 2011 I joined the SCA and I needed a table for camping at Pennsic, but I didn’t want to spend a fortune on it. I’ve only made a few things from wood (some benches, a two-step stair, some trellises), and I was able to create this table to my satisfaction.
This is a common practice among folks who need furniture on a budget, model train enthusiasts who need a place for their layouts, drafters who need a desk, and crafters who want a large workspace.
Size the Tabletop (Optional): If you want to use the full length of your door slab, just skip this step. Cut away the extra wood in your table legs once the wood glue has dried (wait at least 24 hours).
Since I’d saved so much in the construction of the table, I decided to put moulding around the edges and stain the moulding, legs, stretchers, and tenons. Also, do not go back over previously stained areas (anything older than, say, 3 minutes) until it is absolutely dry because it will glob and gunk and look yucky.
I am glad I used a hollow core door, especially now that we have quite a bit of stuff to bring to Pennsic and weight is an issue. That's not to mention the expensive hardwood and the large arsenal of tools and skills they require.
I added a "Heavy Duty Lifting Leveler" kit from Rockler to my base and the bench is super sturdy, does not slide around, and is easy to level on my uneven concrete floor in my basement. I like the equipment and will use it again so I don't have any regrets, but without a router one would have needed a table saw - not a very common beginners tool either - to make the grooves to accept the rod.

Although adults have tougher and less sensitive skin, I find it very helpful to wrap a cushioning material around the tip of my rasps and files.
Once you try using felt, I am confident that you will find many other uses for it all around your shop. His pieces have been featured in several woodworking books, most recently in Robin Wood’s CORES Recycled. You won’t be able to dance on this table, sure, but its lightweight tabletop is perfect for lugging about without breaking your back … or your wallet! I could buy a couple sheets of plywood, but I want to use this table year-round for crafts, so I preferred something that would look nicer. I can’t very well use this table at Pennsic if I can’t even carry the tabletop to my camp site, now can I? I wanted my table to fit into a free space in my studio so I could use it as a craft table, however, so I’m shortening my door slab. The tenon key is the tapered bit of wood that will fit into the mortise and hold the legs and stretchers in place). As the tabletop is so light, I want to avoid actually attaching the tabletop to the legs, just in case the legs were a bit too heavy for it when it was picked up or otherwise moved. That cost an extra $32, although I’d already bought the stain for another purpose (my cooler cooler and my benches). So if you've been thinking about getting started, or if you've been struggling without a real bench, you don't have any excuses anymore. I haven't secured with the s-clips yet (you can order them from Amazon by the way) so I can't yet say whether or not that gap is to accommodate the design of the s-clip and any seasonal movement in the wood. I use hand tools for everything but rough dimensioning and you cannot plan panels flat because of the bow in the top. And we added bench dogs and a bench vise to expand the usefulness of our workbench, making it a fitting centerpiece for any home workshop. A hollow door slab is really quite lightweight, but still strong enough to function as a great table. I drew the pattern in Adobe Illustrator, printed it out tiled, taped the pages together, cut it out, and drew the pattern onto my wood.
It seems like the top will be stout enough just being supported by the 4x4s but I have to think it would be better with the support of the 4 top stretchers too. Once it’s all put together just the way you like, take a permanent marker and write indicators on each board so you now how to assemble it quickly and easily next time.
I attached the boards to the very sides of the door, where it is solid, for the most secure hold — and this has the added advantage of strengthening the underside of the door a bit.
I combined an old recycled door (for the table top) with inexpensive pine (for the legs and spacers) for a 15th-century, St. Drill holes in the edges of the boards where they meet, then insert dowels into them and glue them in place with wood clue. Now the tabletop just rests on top of the legs, but doesn’t slide or move thanks to the anchor boards.
Cut your firring strips to about 34″ long and place them just inside the open end of the door for support on the end, using wood glue to keep the strips in place.

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