Making a cabinet scraper plane,base cabinet construction sketch software,wood frame sofa toronto - Plans Download

Members of 1% for the Planet contribute 1% of annual sales directly to nonprofit environmental organizations. February 2, 2010 by tom 14 Comments In my last post I showed you how I apply a solid wood edge treatment to plywood panels. I think the success you’ll have with the techniques described are those final few passes with a card scraper bringing everything together flush.
I’d consider this a medium to heavy thickness scraper and chose it for this characteristic.
To begin I’ll choose a card scraper for the required task- some are quite thick and extremely hard to flex with your fingers alone while others are thin, capable of almost bending around a bevel or some other concave shape or edge treatment. When the jointing is complete I’ll move over to the sharpening bench and get ready for some water stone work.
Now on the 1000 grit stone I hone the flat side surfaces until I reach an even level of gray scratch marks. The Ruler Trick is used here to save time as well as making sure the leading edge is polished.
Both long edges are finished at the 1000 grit stage and I’m ready to move onto my 8000 grit polishing stone.
Begin by burnishing the faces of the scraper- lay the tool flat on your bench and burnish the long sides to draw out the steel before turning the burr. Turning the burr is sometimes the most difficult part of dressing a card scraper; all of the work so far may be for not if you screw this last step up! The angle finder behind the burnisher helps the eye establish your desired angle while turning the burr. Roll the burr on the four long edges- you may try to experiment here a bit by turning a heavy burr on two sides with a lighter cut on the opposite edges.
Once I got used to using and turning a good burr, the card scraper is one of my favorite tools. I completely agree, the card scraper is the tool of choice for certain jobs and this is definetly one of them!
Describing such a process is surely harder than showing it, but I think you did a fine job. So is sharpening the scraping iron in a scraping plane or a cabinet scraper the same process? I have been hesitent to buy a scrapper, for fear of sharpeing and adding the burr, but having read this post, I think I may go out and get one tomorrow. DID YOU KNOW…For those of a more technical nature we have articles on the various blade angles for hand planes and how to flatten the sole of a hand plane. From looking like playoff contenders to staving off the wooden spoon, the Wellington Phoenix's turbulent season will come to an end today.
There are few more rewarding feelings for players and coaches than when a sports team clicks. Taking the law of averages into account, the Wellington Phoenix should beat someone 5-0 in the next couple of games. It's taken 16 attempts but the Wellington Phoenix have finally won an A-League game in Melbourne.
Phoenix coach Ernie Merrick has accused New Zealand Football high performance manager Fred de Jong of having a conflict of interest through his commentary work.

Skipper Andrew Durante insists the Wellington Phoenix will put their "crazy week" of disruptions behind them when they tackle Shane Smeltz's Perth Glory team in Christchurch tonight. Plate X: Tools - Ripping saw, siding saw, bow saw, tenon saw, marquetry saw, hand saw or compass saw, mallet, veneering hammer, set square with mitre or triangle, bevel, bevel square or set square, small compass, bit brace, auger, wood drills, hammer, tongs, and pincers. Plate XI: Tools - Beam compass, cramp, trying plane, Jack plane, rebate plane, cutting knife, iron hook, polishing tool, marking gauges, scribing gauges, firmer chisel, mortice chisel, gouge, auger, press, scraper, screw driver, and screw pike. The 1% for the Planet network brings together like-minded leaders who share a belief that business can be a vital catayst for positive environmental change. Its these last few passes that can either tear away those precious veneers, uncovering a cross grain layer underneath and making for a less than perfect panel or the opposite- bringing the two surfaces true and making the transition from solid wood to plywood veneer almost seamless. I thought it would make sense to show you how I prepare a card scraper for these final finishing steps.
I’ll firmly clamp the scraper on edge in my face vise and proceed to take just enough passes to clean all of the old edge away establishing a clean, fresh surface on both long edges of the card scraper. As an aside here I should mention the sharpening bench is working as planned but I still take the time to throw down an old tea towel to help absorb the water and slurry while using the stones- what can I say, it’s still fairly new and I want to keep it looking good! I continue with the edge polishing, using the oak guide block to keep the card scraper at a constant 90 degree angle to the surface. So go easy, start straight across horizontal and slowly work the edge of the steel. Turning the burr can be done with a dedicated burnisher like the one in the next photo. Spending time on the finish of your burnisher will help to prevent spreading those undesirable blemishes from the burnisher back over to the freshly polished card scraper. Starting at horizontal and working down the length of the scraper, carefully push the steel out and away from you. It’s from Veritas tools and takes all of the guess work out of turning a consistent burr on the edges of card scrapers.
Now you can flip the tool around while in use to get a sense of the amount of hook that feels comfortable to you and your work.
Just this weekend, I tried to sharpen and use a scraper for the first time, and it worked just great.
It is a small tool so if the idea of a thin burnisher, pushing the steel out on the scraper edge sounds reasonable to you, then its a great investment. The only difference is the plane irons are ground in the 45 degree range while the card scrapers and cabinet scraper blades are all at 90- the process is pretty much the same overall.
Even tips and tricks on how to dovetail an infill plane and information on how to make a Norris adjuster can be found right here on Handplane Central. After a host of losses and draws on their past 15 trips to the Victorian capital, the Phoenix beat the Melbourne Heart 1-0 at AAMI Park last night thanks to a second-half goal from Stein Huysegems. De Jong was appointed to the high performance role in 2012 but NZF allowed him to continue his work for Sky Television, where he commentates on Phoenix home games. I always store a card scraper or two in my tool tray and use them almost daily for removing glue or just a quick surfacing of the bench top or piece of lumber. A bit of pressure and usually 4 to 6 passes is all that’s needed to cut away the soft metal. As mentioned the card scraper now has an extremely sharp edge so I begin on my 220 grit stone with the scraper flat on its side and work away the burr along the edge.
With the sides dressed I’ll move onto the edges and holding the scraper firmly against a jointed off cut of oak, I can keep the edge square to the stone surface and begin bringing up the finish on this thin strip of metal. You don’t need a whole lot of pressure and after a few passes you should be able to feel a small burr (wire edge) appearing.

This small jig is able to be pre-set with the desired angle from 0 to 15 degrees and a few light passes are all that’s needed to roll over the tiny wire edge. Once the burr is established its time to put this thing to work- ironically enough the card scraper shouldn’t scrape the wood at all but cut it. Architecture in the Encyclopedie of Diderot and D'Alembert : the letterpress articles and selected engravings. Once I select the card scraper for this particular job I’ll spend a good 15 minutes to prepare it. This freshly jointed edge is now still extremely jagged and very sharp so be careful while handling the tool from this point on. Be very careful whenever you dress the cutting edge of a card scraper with a water stone; these stones are relatively soft and an edge could easily dig into the surface damaging the stone.
Fine shavings are what to watch for in this last shot you can see a small sample of shavings. I won’t have to do all of these steps again for the duration of the project but will need to re-hone and dress the edges as well as re-applying the burr a few times through out the project.
I could have began on this stone but I sometimes worry about gouging it with the sharp edges on the scraper.
I find the edges are shining and polished so I can now finish off the stone work with polishing the two side surfaces. You then want to start changing the angle of the burnisher slowly pushing that small hook over so it begins to roll up to finish at an angle in the 15 to 20 degree ball park.
As I mentioned this entire process took a whole lot less than it did to write about- maybe 5 to 10 minutes in total?
Some people will only draw the burnisher across the scraper at the first position and never go on to the angled approach thus never having a very agressive cut.
I polish both sides and edges on the 8000 and then give the scraper a good rub of Jojoba oil.
They prefer this cutting action but I find a small hook speeds up the cut and changes the attack while in use.
If I roll a small burr at a more relaxed angle I end up having to tilt the scraper away from me further while in use. As a side note again on the sharpening bench, I think a small metal vise attached somewhere may be something I’ll look at in the future. I prefer being able to hold it in more of an upright position so the greater hook means less angle while cutting.
I have a small metal vise back home in my shop in Cape Breton and may bring it back with me next summer. Hope that makes sense- sometimes it’s hard to write about certain hand tool techniques and showing these techniques in person is so much easier.

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