Making shelving units rona,easy wood router projects wood,cheapest wood for building shelves pantry,plans for making a wooden toy box jeeps - Review

Basic shelves are easy and inexpensive to construct using wood, plywood, or fiberboard cut to specific lengths and widths and hanging them from metal shelving standards (long metal strips that hold brackets) and arm brackets. Consider saving time and skipping the cutting and sanding steps by taking your measurements to the lumberyard or home improvement store and having them cut the wood to your specifications.
Keep in mind that plywood does not normally come in shelf-width planks, but in 4- by 8-foot sheets, which need to be cut or "ripped" into shelf width. For a finished look, you can add veneer tape to the front and sides of plywood shelves (also known as edge banding). If you are planning on making the shelves a prominent feature of a room, you can paint or stain them to match your color and design scheme. Of course, you can buy hardwood boards, such oak, or cherry, but these woods are expensive.
I’ve done some finish carpentry in the past, but I’m really more of a framer because I like to just throw things together quickly and make them as strong as possible. I recently built some new garage shelves in the home we have been living in for a couple years now.
Obviously you don’t have to make all the shelves be the same height, but make sure to have at least one of two rows of shelving tall enough for all of your tallest items. Given the length of the walls I was building my shelves on, I bought my wood in the 8 foot lengths.
The wall I built these shelves on was about 14 feet long, so I needed two 8 foot sheets of plywood for each row. Once you know the length of the wall, it’s fairly straightforward as far as counting up how many 2x3s and sheets of plywood you need.
As you can see in the picture below, I also used the perpendicular wall for increased support.
After screwing and nailing the boards up on to the wall, you can put up the end boards (2x4s). For those with some kind of baseboard in your garage, you will need to take a chisel and notch out a spot for the vertical 2×4 boards that will go on the ends, against the wall. Repeat this process with the next row up, but before you nail the vertical 2×4 to the second row, make sure to level it vertically with your long level. It’s a little difficult to see in these pictures, but I have also tacked in some support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall.
As you can see in the picture below, your garage shelves should be strong enough to double as a jungle gym for your kids! One of my goals with this design was that it would be simple enough for almost anyone to build (including myself).
Great job, having sold steel shelving for the last 25 years, your system makes great use of the available space, you don’t have to try and fit standard steel shelf bays into the gap. I would suggest trying concrete screws since you really only need the horizontal strength from the wall.
What was the spacing you used on the support boards between the horizontal beams, coming out perpendicular to the main wall and did you toe nail at the wall side? I actually only used one perpendicular (from the wall) support piece for the entire length of the shelf because when you nail down the plywood shelving you gain plenty of perpendicular strength and the shelves are not deep enough to warrant perpendicular support beams. The only reason I put one in the middle was to help connect the spot where I had to splice the length of the shelf, and to hold it in place during the framing stage.
I’m planning to do my own shelves and found these to be pretty similar to what I had in mind. With a 4 foot span I’m not sure the 2x3s would be sufficient, especially if you plan on storing a lot of heavy items on them. If you want to keep the paneling to match the rest of the garage you should be fine to leave it up. I love the design however I want to center my shelves on a wall and not have them attached to another perpendicular wall on the end like yours are. You really made a good job Michael having shelves like this in our garage can make all stuff in one place, my dad tried the steel before but measuring the gap really took a long time.
I had build a wall of shelves 8 years ago and have to disassemble them do to water leakage into my basement.
I keep thinking about the square dimensions of the posts used in decking but believe I may be underestimating how strong wood can be. In your case I would probably add some vertical beams to your interior wall in addition to the ones on the outside of the shelves.
As far as your concrete block wall is concerned, I would just use a concrete drill bit to pre-drill some holes and use concrete screws to attach the boards.
Thanks for sharing your success story – I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
Summary: Making timber shelves including Shelving an alcove, floating shelves, shelves without brackets and fixing shelves.
We therefore decided to use Redwood for the shelves so they could be stained later to match the floor and doors. The 6 x 1 timber we used is easily strong enough to support the weight of books etc over the span we were working with, but the slats we used underneath would have sagged if we had not fixed them up to a centre strut.
The finished product, which will be stained by the client to match the floor and skirting which is just visible in the picture.
Why not check out our video sections on shelving, how to correctly use a power drill and how to use a table saw to watch a variety of films on how to hang shelves and the tools you can use for this task. Onwards with some good organizational practices, time to make that same corner of the basement look more like this: BAM. One good thing about the house is that our unfinished basement leaves us access to the first floor’s floor joists, and we were able to secure six 2x4s vertically directly to the joists to make a really sturdy outer frame. Note for a second how we planned the spacing between the shelves: using one of our larger plastic storage bins as a template for height, we worked to make sure that every shelf would be able to accomodate something of that same height. The surface area of each shelf also came into account when we were planning the size of the unit. Our measurements maximized our investment perfectly, and the solid shelves quickly came to be.
The shelves were screwed into place in case we ever want to move them and are ready to be maxed out, pronto. It costs a little extra for the cuts, but it may be worth it if you are short on time and tools.
Unless you have a circular saw and know how to use it, you will have to have plywood sheets cut into shelves at the home center or lumberyard when you purchase the sheets. With garage shelves, in my opinion, they don’t need to look fancy, but they do need to be sturdy – I’ve seen far too many saggy garage shelves that look like they’re going to come tumbling down at any moment. Divide this distance by the height of the tallest item you will be keeping on your shelves.


I made our bottom two shelves taller to hold the larger, heavier items (like food storage), and made the upper shelves a little bit shorter to hold the smaller, lighter items. If your bottom shelf will have a 21 inch space under it, measure up 24 ? inches and use your level to draw a horizontal line all the way across the wall. I used a combination of 2x4s (for the vertical support posts), and 2x3s (for the main horizontal framework, including the boards tacked to the wall).
For a 14 foot wall, I used 5 2×4 vertical posts, two on the end and three in the middle, each spaced about 3 ? feet apart.
This is the fun part and if you’ve already measured and marked everything, the building portion should go fairly quickly (with this design). Place them over the horizontal lines you drew and put a nail in at each vertical line (where the studs are). Measure and cut these boards (and all the other vertical support 2x4s) to be ? inch taller than the highest board against the wall. Start at the bottom and place something under one end, while you nail the other end to the perpendicular board that is against the wall. After you have leveled the 2×4 and nailed it to the second row, the remaining rows will go quickly. They should fit right into your frame and once nailed down will offer additional strength coming out of the wall, as well as side to side. With the budget you have, you can actually do a lot of things with it but make sure to canvass for cheap but quality materials.
My main goal was to build shelves that wouldn’t sag and would hold up well in the long run.
Is there any way you could make the shelves within your system adjustable to give you even better use of space ? I would think that you could use this same design, just duplicate the back and front sides with the vertical beams, and then make sure to include some kind of diagonal support beams that go from the top left to bottom right, and top right to bottom left corners to maintain the horizontal strength. These should work since you don’t need the vertical strength from the wall, just horizontal. It’s hard to resist a good opportunity to build something yourself and save some money!
You will have to pre-drill the holes with a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit, but concrete screws should work, in my opinion.
If you decided to use thinner plywood than I did then you might need to add in more support beams.
Just be sure you are screwing and or nailing into a stud behind the wall and not just into the panelling. Since those were secured to each horizontal shelf they really don’t move down on the floor. I just finished building these shelves in the center of a wall in my garage, there is no wall to attach to at either end. For the spacing of the vertical beams, I would try not to go beyond 4ft, unless you plan on using thicker horizontal beams. You could then cut all of the horizontal beams, that are to attach to the interior wall, to fit in between the vertical beams. For the width (or depth) of the shelves, I just measured the the widest item I knew I would be storing on the shelves and then made them an inch or two wider than that. If you would like to request a quotation or further information please click here, for details of how to contact me.
In this project we will show you how to build a set of fitted shelves in an alcove without using any brackets to give the effect that they are floating shelves. The skirting we used when we did the floor was 6 x 1 inch Redwood so we used the same for the top of the shelves and to hide the support battens we clad the underside with tongue and grooved matchboard. The 2 x 1 battens are fixed to the wall at heights dictated by the clients books, stereo etc. This strut was simply cut to length and then glued (as all of the connections and joints were) and nailed (we use a nail gun but you may prefer to screw or use 1½ inch oval or lost head nails. The weather was a bit dodgy so we used a cheap gazebo tent on the patio to protect the power tools and to keep all the sawdust outside. We work with Checkatrade to ensure that we recommend only reliable and trustworthy tradesmen. Or maybe it was caused by an onslaught of new toolage, wedding shiz, or plain hurriedness and laziness.
Why we keep the paint coated grout mixing bowl next to the bleach though, beyond me, and that little black lampshade on the shelf next to the SHOUT has sat there since 2009.
There would be no more stacking of plastic bins, each will have their own space on our big basement shelf of fun. From decorative wall shelves like in my kitchen above, modern 'floating' shelves for DVDs in your living room, book shelves in the study or garage storage shelves for 'men's stuff' all the information you need to build them is here. I'll explain how to build shelves with corbels, battens, bookcase strips or several different types of brackets as well.
You can also buy melamine-coated particleboard (usually available already cut in a variety of standard widths and lengths) if you want an easy-to-clean surface. In fact, I’ve actually had a pet killed by some pre-built garage shelves that collapsed.
I wanted to share my experience to give other DIY-ers an idea of a simple shelving design that is built to last.
I would also recommend storing all of your DIY chemicals like herbicides, pesticides, or cleaners on the top shelf, so your children cannot reach them (easily…).
Take your stud finder across the wall horizontally (twice), once up higher, and once down lower and mark each stud. The next horizontal line should be 24 ? inches above that line (assuming all of your shelves will be the same height). I also used ? inch thick plywood for the shelving surface, with the smoother side of the plywood facing up. You can do whatever you want here, but make sure you don’t go too far between the posts so you have enough strength. This is so that when you lay the plywood down on the top shelf it will fit into the frame for additional support.
Replace whatever you were using to support the other end with the first vertical support 2×4. I would still check each row with the level as some boards can be warped and will need to be bent into place. I guess I should have mentioned that $60 of that $200 was buying a new box of screws and a nails for my nail gun, which I obviously didn’t use all of them. I also wanted to use wood because it’s cheaper and I already had all the tools to do it easily. Instead of buying a shelving system, I thought it might be more price-efficient to try and reuse the planks we have.


You might want to go with an entirely new design for your situation, however, since this design gains most of its strength from being attached to the wall.
Some concrete screws come with a concrete drill bit that is the right diameter for the screws you are buying. As far as vertical strength is concerned, I personally think the 2x4s are good enough for your situation.
Do you think I should remove the paneling from the wall that I’m building shelves on?
I will say that you should make sure they are all the way down on the floor before tacking them into place up above, to ensure that they are supporting the vertical weight of the shelf. At the same time, it might work just fine since each of the vertical beams would be attached to more than two horizontal shelves, hindering that side-to-side movement. Each shelf is constructed from two boards, each cut to fit between the uneven walls found in older properties. The support battens were 2 x 1 inch treated softwood and were fixed using red wall plugs and 3 inch number 8 screws. Take the batten down and drill a 5mm hole in the centre of the batten to push a screw threw.
See our nails information DIY project) The strut just supports the small weight of the T & G matchboard. See, there’s plenty of space in the basement to store everything we desire, but we really needed a way to build upwards and stack lesser-used items (like, boxes of ornaments, extra kitchen appliances, rarely-used tools) and a big, rough shelf felt like a good, affordable solution.
I don’t know much about it, but I know that I really miss the convenience of a basement toilet at our new home.
Shelves that could be used for books, DVDs, ornaments, and even how to make slatted shelves in an airing cupboard. When I made my kitchen, I used two handmade Corbels to hold a shelf up over the cooker as you can see in the picture above. This would equal roughly 4.4, which means that you have enough room for 4 rows of shelving with 21 inches of usable height. Then take a 4 ft (or longer) level and trace a straight vertical line between the upper and lower marks. Nail it into place with only one nail so you can still pivot the board side to side and level it. I personally go for wood than any other material for shelves because 1) it is easy to work with 2) it is exudes a classic warm appeal. I wanted the spacing to be large enough so I could get large tubs in and out, but still have enough support. Having it attached to the wall should also help to prevent it from collapsing to the side, but again, I’m really not sure.
I do wish I had a few more inches when storing some of my larger coolers, but I am still able to get them in. Once I knew that depth I wanted, I pre-cut all my plywood to that width so those pieces would just lay right into the frame. These shelves have a face on them as you can see from below so make sure you leave the side battens back far enough to accommodate this if you have the same plane. Some of those metal contraptions can seem expensive and be a little rickety when you’re demanding a lot from them, but there are a lot of other ways to get organized. The thing to take away here is that the unit is in no way attached to the wall of the house, it floats merely inches off away from it, resting on the ground and attached only to the joists. My shelves were about 21 inches deep so I was able to get two, 8 foot long pieces out of each sheet. If you plan on spacing your vertical beams at 4ft, or longer, I would at least upgrade your horizontal beams to 2x4s instead of 2x3s.
Such a bargain, I bought two more to use as a fireplace mantel shelf in my living room as well, but ended up using them somewhere else in the end. This vertical line will be your guide to help you see where to screw the boards to the wall.
I found this depth to be good for most tubs and other large items you would store, and plenty of room for storing several smaller items. I used a router to put a different moulding on each one then glued and screwed (down from the top) them together.
You can now use the masonry bit to drill right through the timber and the wall (don't forget to alter your depth marker as shown in the aforementioned project). Push the wall plug into the timber, turn the screw in a couple of turns and tap it through with a hammer.
Simple, but effective. Study Book Shelves Above is a completely different method of how to build shelves that I used in my study. You will feel the plug slip through the timber into the wall and when you do it is time to screw the screw in.
I bought some Bookcase Strips from Screwfix, which are good because the height of your shelves can always be adjusted to suit whatever you want to display on them.
To be fair it does eventually blunt the masonry bit slightly but it takes about 650 holes through timber to do this and the time saved, together with the accuracy involved, makes it worth it. I used a router and fence to cut a 1m long groove in two strips of MDF and then just screwed them in (I took them back out before painting!).
Really simple to install, the first thing to do is determine what height you'd like the shelf at. I do this when I'm fixing into stud work so I can bang a bradawl in and find the location of the studs, in a place where I know the batten will later cover.
Of course, if you own a stud-finder you don't need to go to quite as much trouble! Make sure you check there are no sockets or switches directly above or below before you drill holes, or wind a screw in! Fix one corner first, then put a spirit level on the batten and adjust the other side before fixing all the way along.
For extra support when putting up long shelves or those that are going to take a lot of weight apply a bead of Gripfill or no more nails along the back first. Determine how deep you want the shelf.
I often build stud work wardrobes 500 or 600mm deep, and make the shelf either 400 or 500mm. Then measure from the batten to the depth of the shelf. There are two options for the side battens, you can either cut them long enough that they pick up the next stud or keep them back an inch from the front edge of the shelf and cut them on a slight angle like I've done in the picture. Once established hold the batten in place and use a spirit level again, then mark above and below in order to know where it is safe to pierce the wall and find the studs. Always use a mask when cutting timber, but this is especially important with MDF as the dust is particularly harmful. Add a finishing touch to the edge of the shelf by using a router and cutter like in my kitchen shelf above, or by gluing and nailing a decorative bead onto the front like in my study shelves below.



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