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I wanted to incorporate the pallets into my master bathroom makeover, but wasn't quite sure how.
I then went to town sanding the heck out of all of the boards with a random orbital sander. I used a thin line of wood glue and our brad nailer and air compressor to piece the boards together.
I started this by cutting a piece of pallet board -- utilizing a combination of the miter saw, jigsaw, and table saw -- so that it would fit exactly into the open end of the box shelf. Once the dowels were ready, I drilled one hole into the end of each piece, making sure that it was off center.
Cabot takes a lot longer to dry than Rustoleum's Ultimate Wood Stain, so I left the shelves in the garage to dry for a good six to eight hours.
They may not win awards for style or be quite as elegant as store-bought versions, but the two ideas below sure are simple (and relatively cheap) to build as long as you have a plan and know what you want out of a corner-oriented work space. Designed by Cate of Los Angeles, this wrap-around system of Sears Kit Home shelves frames a cozy semi-enclosed desk while keeping all of your books, odds and ends readily at hand and making maximum use of a small space.A graphic artist and patent illustrator by trade, Tom Geisler shows off raw functionality aesthetically-simple standing desk constructed from wooden IKEA butcher blocks. Creative contemporary domestic designs, from unique home architecture to custom interior, furniture & DIY design ideas.Find inspiration via plans & pictures of compact modular mini-houses, small-space apartments, all-in-one bathroom & bedroom projects & more.Upcycled cargo shipping container houses, to space-saving furniture, ultra-modern interiors & futuristic homes! Also, I pretend that if I had any of those bookshelves, that my stuff would somehow be condensed and look like this.
I assume the baskets and bowls shown are there to store the necessary pixie dust to make this configuration practical.
Thank you for acknowledging that shelves that are actually being used don’t look like that. Emily Henderson talks a lot about how expensive and difficult it is to style bookshelves on her blog, that is something I never really thought about. This post showed up on FB as I’m sitting here with 10,341 tabs open, trying to find the perfect shelving unit for my home school room. Thank you for admitting that shelves in actual houses will never look as good as the ones in catalogs since we actually have to USE the ones in our house. Sometimes, I just have to put things away and simply be glad they are away, whether they are pretty or not.
We just purchased some reclaimed wood wall shelves for our books and I’m in love with them — but we still have so many more books! I have a friend who turns books spine-in until he’s read them, so his shelves are part trophy and part masochism.
I went home last night after seeing this post and turned the paper backs in my sun room around. I wrote a blog post about dressing up your IKEA furniture and when I was doing the research, I recall a number of ways to dress up EXPEDIT bookcases on sites such as panyl. I love the shelf with the wheels, but I have to say, with the quantity of books you have, the existing shelves look amazing.
Nicole, it was so nice to meet you last night, and I wish I’d seen this post before we spoke.
I totally agree that those choices are more fabulous than the Expedit series but who has that kind of money!? Now, the fun part, add frames, flowers and fun little nic naks and you have a unique shelf, that is completely versatile and can be changed up for any type of occasion or  holiday!
For this vase, I used a glass lemonade bottle I had at brunch, peeled the label off and presto, a cute little vase! Thank you, this actually took a long while, thankfully Jeremy is very resourceful, and knows what he is doing.
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Summary: Making timber shelves including Shelving an alcove, floating shelves, shelves without brackets and fixing shelves. We therefore decided to use Redwood for the shelves so they could be stained later to match the floor and doors. The 6 x 1 timber we used is easily strong enough to support the weight of books etc over the span we were working with, but the slats we used underneath would have sagged if we had not fixed them up to a centre strut. The finished product, which will be stained by the client to match the floor and skirting which is just visible in the picture. Why not check out our video sections on shelving, how to correctly use a power drill and how to use a table saw to watch a variety of films on how to hang shelves and the tools you can use for this task.
Every homeowner at one point feels the need to either get up on their roof or reach something really high off the ground. There are several brands of this style of ladder available, and most of them work in a very similar way. To lock the rungs, just do the same thing in reverse – pull out the metal U, turn it so the end goes into the rung, and let it slide ino the rung.
The whole system is fairly easy to use, and if there is not any weight on the elements, they slide and go into place quite freely. This method is extremely useful when the thing you are trying to get to is above a staircase.
As you can see, it reaches up to the roof of the second story house, allowing me to clean the gutters. This method is used when you are working either on a wide high piece and don’t want to continually move the ladder, or if you are working directly above a hole in the ground (a basement storm cellar outside entrance, for example)  For this method, you simply slide off the inner rungs on both sides, and then lock them together, then insert the plank between the two separate ladders. Recently my wife and I, being sick of Lego all over our living room, decided that it was time to finish our basement.
After installing the drywall and rough-ins, the contractor went off to Bahamas for a week’s pre-arranged vacation (with my deposit I presume), leaving me to install the flooring. Before he left, She Who Makes the Design Decisions and I went shopping for the flooring materials.
Alternatively, there is click-lock flooring, (pictured above) which requires no glue or nails. Laminate is essentially the same as Engineered, except instead of glued hardwood top layer, there is a printed surface covered in melamine. In the event that you end up with less than a half board (lets say 15 16ths)  the solution is to rip 1 inch off the tongue side of the starting boards, so that you’ll end up with an approximately 2 inch board at either side of the job. Take a piece of flooring (ripped if necessary), and lay it in a corner, over your underlay, parallel to the longest wall. Continue down the wall, butting the next board to the one before, and the trailing edge should click into the leading edge of the previous board. Slip the piece marked KEEP into the end of the row.  The piece marked waste, if really short can be thrown out.
Hopefully, you can continue on until the last course, laying a new row of underlay as required,  rip a few boards at the end, and slip out for a beer.
The problem here is that I was working left to right, and had to then work right to left in the closet, which is difficult as the material is designed to be worked in one direction.  However, it is possible to clip in a piece from the rear.
When I got to the opening of the door, I cut the board out  in the middle as above, and ran it to the back of the closet.  I then removed this board, and put it aside for later. I laid the floor in the closet just as if I was starting fresh, making the first board a whole board.
Once you’ve ripped and installed the boards, you can reinstall the skirting boards and quarter round, or decide to leave that for another day. When we purchased our house about 3 years ago, a nice feature was a lovely brick grill area on the back patio. I disconnected the natural gas line, scraped the grill and thought for a few years on what to do with the space.
We have increasingly been making our own pizzas and breads and the gas oven in the house just isn’t cutting it anymore.
I cut and screwed in a 2×6 onto the front of the brick enclosure to act as a mold for the concrete base. The 2nd common type is an arch style- this is just a simple arch from left to right with a straight brick wall in the back.
I knew I had a limited amount of vertical space to work with as I was building this oven in an already enclosed space. On the front of the oven, I left the top brick out on each side as I knew I would do a 2nd arch for the opening of the oven.
I took the interior measurement between the side walls, and cut a piece of drywall to width.
I used 11 bricks on the floor of the oven side to side, so I took 13 bricks and began laying them on the drywall in an arch pattern. Once I was happy with the arch shape and having researched different arch types online, I traced the outline of the bricks onto the drywall and cut it out. I placed the arch templates into the oven, propped up on 2 stacks of 4 bricks and spaced the arch supported front to back to cover the depth of the arch.
Once I was happy with placement, I began to dry fit some bricks for the arch to make sure everything would work out the next day. Had this not been built into a pre-existing space, I believe it would have been much easier to complete.
If you’re trying to split a brick with a hammer and chisel, make sure the brick is on firm, flat ground. This blog posting was originally written in 2008 for a friend of mine who was unable to perform simple repair tasks around her house.
Step 4: Balance the board on its back on a good solid flat surface so that the edge that will contact the wall is against the floor. Step 6: Mount the shelf, lining it up with your previous marks, and mark only the upper screw hole where it meets the wall and stud. At this stage, you’ve got one bracket, tightly secured to the board, and loosely secured to the wall. You might wish to take a measuring tape and a piece of chalk and actually draw your shelving on the wall before you head out to the store. The first rail was easy, as we didn’t really care too much about the vertical placement. Now you can mount the second rail with its top just ever so slightly above this pencil line.
Step 5:  Mount the middle rail (if required) If you need a center rail you can mark the top just by balancing a shelf across the existing rails and matching the rail to it. Measure, level and mark boards, appropriately aligning the future holes with the mortar between bricks.
What I learned: Unlike screwing wood to wood, where you can sink the screws into the wood easily without a countersink, when attaching wood to mortar, if you do not provide the countersink hole already and attempt to perform said action, you will strip the mortar and the screw will just spin and stay loose. Next, re-level shutters and mark the mortar with the masonry drill bit through the pilot holes.
What I learned: I had already applied a sealer to the back of the shutters before attaching them. Having two drills is a life-saver: I had my hammer drill set up with my masonry bit and my cordless drill had my Phillips bit in it ready for the screws. There are several types of plaster you might run across in homes built in the 1960’s and earlier.
It is the easiest to use, and it’s your patriotic duty as a Canadian to support this superior screwing technology.


Wood screws are pointy, and may or may not have threads all the way to the head (usually not). These look pretty similar to thicker drywall screws except that the are available in Robertson heads. One of the most important skills a do it yourselfer can have, is knowing what you can do yourself and what you can’t. Trying new things is one of the best ways to learn what you can and cannot do, so you should never be afraid to try things.
While almost any job around the house can be a do it yourself task, some jobs require more training and a good understanding of the underlying system to be completed successfully.
While some plumbing jobs require only a small amount of skill (changing a faucet, unclogging a drain, fixing a leaky toilet, etc.), others require training, planning, skill, and experience. Plumbing is one of those things where you might think “You just connect pipes, how hard can that be”, until you end up with a stream of never ending water flooding your basement. Plumbing is one of the vital systems in your home, which goes unnoticed most of the time but can cause a lot of grief when it’s not working. This field of work requires at least a slight understanding of how electricity behaves in order to be able to complete simple tasks  such as replacing receptacles, changing light fixtures, replacing switches, and other small activities.
Becoming capable of doing electrical work yourself will require fairly major investments in both learning and tools, so be prepared to spend a lot of time and money if you are thinking of tackling these types of jobs.
The basics of electrical work can be learned relatively quickly, but the knowledge required to complete tasks grows exponentially as you become more involved with larger sections of the electrical system.
Heating ventilation and air conditioning jobs often require both plumbing and electrical skills, and apart from minor jobs (replacing a thermostat, changing filters, etc.) they should not be preformed by unqualified persons. This type of work will require training, specialized tools, and a solid understanding of electricity, plumbing, fluid dynamics, thermal dynamics, high and low pressure systems, and electronics.
While there are other dangerous systems and jobs throughout the house, electrical, plumbing, and HVAC can be the most hazardous for do it yourselfers. On a power drill, the clutch setting is the amount of torque that the motor will pass through to the bit. These floating shelves are in a small closet, half are U-shaped — hanging on three adjoining walls and they are fairly deep so they have to be well supported. I added a 4″ wide strip of poplar on the left side to add pegs in case I need to hang anything.
Once everything is painted and caulked, it looks awesome and was worth every minute of the week and a half it took me to knock it out.
Shelving and a working surface should suffice, but even then there is more than one way to frame a do-it-yourself desk. Hung from walls in one corner, the could of course be lowered as well for those who wish to sit instead.
They probably wouldn’t bother me so much if I could just keep the rest of my office neat. I used to have my books arranged by color but my husband always had to hunt for whatever book he wanted.
I love the airy nature of these shelves, and the fact that they’re art in themselves. It’s a rare occasion that we pull them off the shelf anyway and most of our reading is done electronically these days- or, we make the effort to buy the nice hard-bound version. The Room and Board etagere is on my wish list and I have also loved the shelf from World Market. In this project we will show you how to build a set of fitted shelves in an alcove without using any brackets to give the effect that they are floating shelves. The skirting we used when we did the floor was 6 x 1 inch Redwood so we used the same for the top of the shelves and to hide the support battens we clad the underside with tongue and grooved matchboard. The 2 x 1 battens are fixed to the wall at heights dictated by the clients books, stereo etc. This strut was simply cut to length and then glued (as all of the connections and joints were) and nailed (we use a nail gun but you may prefer to screw or use 1½ inch oval or lost head nails. The weather was a bit dodgy so we used a cheap gazebo tent on the patio to protect the power tools and to keep all the sawdust outside. We work with Checkatrade to ensure that we recommend only reliable and trustworthy tradesmen. I considered doing it myself, but really didn’t have the time, or the vehicle to haul materials in. This is an AC-4 rated product, which means it should be more than sufficient for our basement.
If it isn’t, you have to decide whether you want to grind down any lumps, level the floor with Self Leveling Compound, or live with some imperfection.
You don’t want any lumps of mud or any organic material on the concrete – this is food for mold! Since my boards were nominally 3 inches wide, I need to know how much space will be left over for my final course. We could mess around with measuring and calculating, but I’ve figured out a better way. We use a pizza stone and already broke one because we tried cooking at too high of a temperature. You can make bread in there as well and maybe we’ll cook some vegetables to go on the pizza.
I watched numerous youtube videos on different methods and read websites from others that have built brick ovens.
As I had no experience in doing this, I tried that, only to find out the mortar was drying too fast for me to work with it and my concrete base was not as level as I had liked it to be. This is easier to build as it requires less cuts, can be done in stages and is generally easier to construct. I needed to consider how high I would make the walls, If I’d be able to get my hand inside to lay the top bricks of the arch and how tall the arch would be. This form can be made out of any rigid material and is just a temporary support until the arch dries.
I used a small piece of drywall to space the back of the bricks for the mortar gap and worked to make both sides of the arch consistent.
I left a 1 inch gap at the bottom to fit in between the walls to give it left to right rigidity. I left the front 2 bricks of the center of the arch out to provide ventilation into the existing chimney stack. To small for a full brick by all means; to small for a split brick as a lintel supports the rest of the original structure.
Great tool, but what saved the day in the end was the $3 masonry cut off wheel for the grinder. At 10am it was 82 degree’s out and my mortar was getting firm and I had to add water. Once or twice I split the brick with a small pebble under it and the brick split in the wrong place.
Picking up bricks one at a time, holding it with one hand while applying mortar and then trying to put the brick into a confined space and a brick weights a ton. I actually don’t recommend this type of shelving for all but the most utilitarian installations.
This can be tricky, but if you’re going to use it for books, then you need to find a stud.
Take the board down, and on the underside using a square (which is usually triangle shaped) mark the perpendicular right across the board. The diameter of the drill bit should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the screw (The solid part inside the threads.) Attach the bracket to the board. If you over tighten, you’ll damage the wood underneath, and the screw might pull out.
I taped off my house using wide painter’s tape after they were up and it saved me a huge headache of cleaning sealer off my house with mineral spirits. It is taped together with paper tape and a plaster like compound called Drywall Compound (or MUD) to hide the joins. Other than tiny picture hangers and quarter round, you probably shouldn’t be using nails around the home. Often the head has a conical profile allowing the head to be driven into the material and lay flat (or covered with a plug or wood filler.) When joining two pieces of wood together, you want the unthreaded portion of the screw to be about the same length as the thickness of the top piece of wood. They’re usually green in colour, and are treated to put up with the corrosive nastiness of pressure treated wood. While doing work yourself can often save you a bit of money, doing things wrong can cost you more than you might think. Learning a new skill or finding that you can do more than you thought, can be a great feeling.
Some aspects of plumbing can be done by almost anybody, but may only be done well by an experienced tradesman. However, most jobs require a fairly good grasp of electrical concepts, electrical codes and best practices, and some form of training.
HVAC systems can cause personal injury, death, and property damage, if not installed and maintained properly. With the high prices that professionals in this field charge, it’s often tempting to try and avoid these expenses. So you can have your pretty decor, and all you would have to do is wheel it around to see all the book titles. I’m in the same boat as you and needed mega storage for my workspace but no cash so I went with the same option as you. Me and the boyfriend have used vintage coke crates to make a shelf in our bedroom, we used old wine crates to organize our pantry, and now my handy man boyfriend anchored a large old wooden pallet to a  blank spot in our living room, and now we have a perfect place for picture frames and nic naks. Lastly, after you have anchored the pallet to the wall you will need to screw in screws to the pallet board, just to hold it all in place.
The support battens were 2 x 1 inch treated softwood and were fixed using red wall plugs and 3 inch number 8 screws.
Take the batten down and drill a 5mm hole in the centre of the batten to push a screw threw. See our nails information DIY project) The strut just supports the small weight of the T & G matchboard. We decided to hire a contractor (and got very lucky with a personal recommendation) to provide us with ready-to-paint drywall, and to come back later for trim and drop ceiling. It’s a tongue and groove board, which needs to be nailed down to the sub-floor at an angle through the tongue. This is installed like hardwood, or it can be glued along the tongues to make a floating floor.
Laminates that have a melamine bottom layer are also less susceptible to moisture, which makes them perfect for a basement. Laminate cannot be re-finished, and cheap laminate tends to wear our quickly, leaving you with bare HDF. Our floor had some variation, and we probably should have leveled it, but the cost was prohibitive.
However, this means that you have to do all the underlay in one go, and keep it clean while you work (an impossible task!).


Unannounced to us, this grill was severely weathered; rusted through and generally not very appealing to look at. This would fill in the hole without spending a ton of money on cinder block or other brick material. We initially purchased 120 fire bricks, or, refractory bricks, 2 bags of Heat Stop 50 mortar, a trowel and a 2 foot level. I began to apply the mortar only to the bricks I was laying (as I would with tile) and level everything as I moved along. Having run out of plywood (and not particularly enjoying working with a circular saw) I opted to use scrap drywall.
This 1 inch gap, sitting on top of 4 stacked bricks made up the mortar gap in the wall and put the arch where it needed to begin at the top of the wall. 2 keystone bricks were cut to match the angle of the arch and maintain the structural integrity of the arch.
As it was, I could only work on it from the front, having to contort my body to reach some spots of the arches along the way.
Take your time, drink lots of water (or Gatorade and coffee) if its hot out and you’ll be fine. At the force you need to hit the chisel with the hammer to crack a brick, It’s not a pleasant experience. I plan to do a test burn the day before the 4th of July and if everything goes well and nothing comes crashing down on me, to make some pizza on the 4th of July. It is intended for those people who know that the flat end of the nail is the end you hit with the shoe, and that butter knives make acceptable screwdrivers. BUT, this installation will demonstrate the essential properties of shelviness — The shelf is level, and it is strong enough for most small loads. Sometimesyou can find them by tapping lightly with a small hammer and listening for a spot where the echo turns into a thud (a doctor’s knee tapper would be ideal). Put one of the brackets against the board and the floor and press so the flex is taken out of the bracket, and the screw holes are directly over the line. If you go this route, Laminated MDF is a good choice for the actual shelves as it is pretty stiff.
It’s a good idea to measure the spacing at the top and bottom to make sure they are parallel.
What I have attempted to show is that we can do a whole lot of quality work while keeping this error prone task to a minimum.
This means that the threads will bite into the lower piece, and everything will pull tight together. If these are the only screws you have laying around, then it’s probably safe to use them for interior repairs.
The best way to try and learn new things, is to do so under the supervision of a person who already knows how to do those things. Soldering joints, for example, is a task that can be done by almost anybody, but only a true master can do it artfully. Then you find yourself 6 hours later, standing in a puddle, dripping wet, with your legs crossed trying not to soil your pants. This is not a trade for novice do it yourselfers, and in most cases work should be completed by; or at least inspected by, a capable, licensed Electrician. Learning to install and troubleshoot whole circuits, can take a long time and require a lot of specialized tools. Do it yourselfers should have a fairly good understanding of how electrical systems work, and what tools are required, before deciding if they should complete any electrical work themselves.
It requires an in-depth knowledge of the systems involved to safely complete HVAC jobs, which often means this type of work should be avoided by a do it yourselfer. In most cases, however, it’s safer and more cost effective (in the long run) to simply allow a professional to complete this type of work. It seems impossible to have both space for one’s books and other stuff and also have it look good.
I think changing around what you already have in the meantime could feel refreshing and cathartic! These shelves have a face on them as you can see from below so make sure you leave the side battens back far enough to accommodate this if you have the same plane. Furthermore, they tend to be significantly cheaper than both engineered wood and hardwood — Which is a major consideration in a basement, where there is the remote, but real, possibility of flooding resulting in a complete replacement of the flooring.
Notwithstanding his expert advice, I do believe it is the correct, economical choice for a basement.
Since it comes in 3′ widths, I prefer to run it the length of the room, lay the flooring on top, and lay the next section when I get near the edge. Alternatively, I could have undone the last few feet of work in the closet, and relaid it fresh, starting with the ripped piece. This would leave me with half the space of a brick left; leaning the first arch brick against it put the brick at a 45 degree angle.
I was left with an opening of roughly 1 half brick which will eventually have a steel door installed into it to allow the oven to retain more heat. I chose to mix the batches by hand with a gardening trowel instead of a drill and paddle mixer so I could control the water amount and consistency better.
No big deal and I had the shims on hand, but a pain in the butt that could have been avoided. The techniques used here are also applicable to hanging curtain rods and small bathroom shelves. This might work if you have drywall and wood studs, but plaster and lathe seems to make the same sound no matter where you tap it. Mark the stud line on the board and mark the underside of the shelf against the wall (As per Step 3). If the rails are mis-aligned, the shelves will be sloping, which is not one of the properties of shelviness we desire. The major problem is you still get the brittleness of plaster without the additional support of wood lathe.
This will remove the material that you would otherwise have to push aside (with a splitting risk) while still leaving enough material for the threads to grab. If you were to use a drywall screw instead, it is quite likely that the screw will actually end up forcing the pieces apart slightly. Basically, these are used to join two pieces of metal together, often with washers to allow some motion.
Most community colleges; and some big box hardware stores, offer courses that can teach you how to do things yourself in a safe environment.
Spend some time figuring out exactly what you’ll have to do to complete the job, then make a good plan and stick to it. I shied away from this type only in that it would require many cuts to build the dome and I wasn’t that experienced.
4 inches would allow a 2 piece template to span 2 bricks lengthwise (giving the dome more stability as it built it). This of course, takes more time as you need to cut a few bricks in half (re: masonry cut off wheel) but ultimately leads to a stronger arch.
My general principle is that you can’t possibly measure and pencil out the installation accurately. Take the shelf down, and repeat 3-7 for the other bracket, and finally drive home the actual screws that will hold it up. The danger is that a partially loaded shelf might flip up like a teeter totter if there is too much overhang. However, if you are hanging a 24 inch shelf on 16 inch studs, that leaves 4 inches of overhang at either side. Usually light loads will be attached with a plastic drywall plug to spread out the downwards force so that your nail or screw doesn’t pull down the wall, opening a crack like a zipper would. Furthermore, the gypsum came in large sheets, so that the plaster doesn’t flow in behind and lock like it does with wood lathe.
People putting up drywall will usually buy a special tip for their drill that takes advantage of the Phillips driver’s tendency to slip out of the screw. Learning a new trade can be much easier in a risk free environment, where failure only means that you have to try again.
Do as much work as you can before you shut off the water supply, this will minimize the systems down time (and help you avoid soiling your pants). I’m not sure a pro could cut bricks to fit those gaps but I think it gives the oven a bit of character. You might have to move your ideal location over a bit so that the shelf is centered on the studs. This frees up the other hand for duties like holding onto the work of holding onto dear life as the case may be. Maybe you have a friend or family member who is knowledgeable in this field, and is willing to teach you what they know. The Phillips screw was designed so that the drive would twist out of the screw head if it got too tight. A hole of appropriate size is drilled through the material, and the bolts are tightened so that the friction between the wood pieces prevent any movement. You can now use the masonry bit to drill right through the timber and the wall (don't forget to alter your depth marker as shown in the aforementioned project). Alternatively, mark it with pencil in several locations and use the edge of a shelf, or even the rail itself to mark the studs. Put a piece of tape over the plaster before banging in a nail, and you can reduce much of the cracking.
Push the wall plug into the timber, turn the screw in a couple of turns and tap it through with a hammer. There are no straight lines and no 90 degree corners in your house, and every time you pull out a tape, you’re introducing error into the equation. You will feel the plug slip through the timber into the wall and when you do it is time to screw the screw in.
One might be tempted to try and line up the second rail by partially assembling the brackets and temporarily mounting a shelf using the brackets and a shelf.
The problem with this technique is that you will be left with a plaster repair and paint touch up when done, but it is reliable. To be fair it does eventually blunt the masonry bit slightly but it takes about 650 holes through timber to do this and the time saved, together with the accuracy involved, makes it worth it. It might be a workable idea when you have 3 pairs of hands, but then communications between those hands becomes an issue. Now, using the level, level the shelf and mark the underside where it meets the other stud line.



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