If you have ever shot time-lapse, you know the struggles of dealing with hundreds, if not thousands of large files.
Unsupported browserThis site was designed for modern browsers and tested with Internet Explorer version 10 and later. Take a series of photographs with your DSLR maintaining the same interval between the shots.
Copy your pictures into a separate folder on your desktop and then import them into Lightroom 3. Under ‘Settings’, set the compression type to H.264 codec, and adjust the compression quality. Once you have all your clips ready, you can put them together into a time-laps movie in After Effects. In order to use and control the camera, you will need to convert your composition and null object into 3D layers.
Next, place the time indicator at the beginning of the sequence, highlight the null object and press ‘p’ on your keyboard.
Then, place the time indicator at the end of your sequence and, by dragging the blue z axis in the preview window, zoom the null object out to the original size of the sequence.
Make sure that the duration of your composition is as long as all the sequences combined together. Adjust the duration of your composition and make sure that its size is the same as the size of your sequences. Drag all the sequences onto the timeline and arrange them so that the first sequence is on top and the last on the bottom.
Next, move the time indicator to the end of your overlap (that’s where the transition will end) and change the opacity to 0%. Grzegorz RogalaI'm an EFL teacher and a photographer, currently interested in experimental approaches to digital photography as well as image and video post-production.
Please enter at least one email addressYou are trying to send out more invites than you have remaining. Timelapses of sunsets are wonderful to watch, but they require an understanding technique and a whole lot of patience. There are two basic ways to capture images for this type of timelapse: manual mode and aperture priority mode. The intervalometer was set to a 10 second delay, which gave Thomson plenty of time to adjust the shutter speed between each shot as necessary.
In aperture priority mode, the aperture value remains the same while the camera adjusts the shutter speed to allow for the dropping light.
Thomson used LR Time Lapse, a piece of software that gives you a bunch of options including a preview window, shooting information, a variety of workflow, and the option to render your timelapse video.
For the rest of the frames where exposure did not change, all adjustments done to one frame like exposure, color balance, clarity, vibrance etc.
Just remember one thing, for the frames where you apply match total exposure, don’t copy the exposure setting when copying settings from one frame to the other. Make any finer adjustments you wish to make for each of the shots before finally saving all the information to the metadata file.
Back to LR Time Lapse first hit the Reload button to export all the changes you made in Lightroom. Back to Lightroom, again click Read Metadata from files to update the work done in LR Time Lapse. The final step is to export the images from Lightroom as JPEGs to be compiled into the video footage in After Effects.
There is a COMPLETE guide (146 pages) to shooting, processing and rendering time-lapses using a dslr camera. Newly updated for 2016, we were able to arrange 20% off which ends soon, simply remember to use the discount code picturecorrect at checkout.

We are always looking for more interesting and insightful photography tips and techniques to share with our readers. While Lightroom and other post production programs can definitely make editing your time-lapse easier, LRTimelapse is a program that can further ease the editing process and improve your workflow. Mount your camera on a tripod and use the manual setting in order to achieve the same exposure in every picture. This software offers powerful editing possibilities and you can always improve the quality of your images by adjusting the exposure, brightness, contrast, sharpness etc.
Once you are satisfied with the result, create a preset that can be applied to the remaining images. Select all the images displayed at the bottom of the screen (?A) and make sure that all of them are highlighted.
The software of my choice is Quicktime Pro as it converts a series of images into a time-lapse movies in few easy steps. Most digital cameras nowadays name the files in a sequential manner so you don’t have to do it manually. However, the size of the images taken with your DSLR is quite big so Quicktime will display the original size. You can also add the camera zooming and panning effects to make your project more interesting and simulate effects achieved by an expensive dolly.
This will be the anchor point of your camera and you will use this square to adjust its position and zoom level. This way, you will be able to control the camera by adjusting the null object in the composition preview screen. The clip will start with the camera zoomed in and then it will gradually zoom out as the sequence progresses. The camera will start panning from the left, then it will move to the centre of the screen and start zooming out. Go to ‘Composition’ and select ‘Composition Settings’ to change the duration of your composition. After Effects has several available transition effects but I managed to work out a simpler and faster way by adjusting the opacity of the clips.
If your composition is longer than the sequences, you can change its duration repeating step 34 or crop it manually. With the manual mode you can control everything and there is no room for introducing a visual jerk in the timelapse. The only problem with the reflected light meter in your camera is that the exposure might be slightly over or under from time to time, as the camera is never quite sure about the scene. This option will highlight all the transition points where exposure changed from one frame to the other. This will bring up only the images which represent any change in exposure—this will be a significantly lower number. This ensures that all the changes you have made thus far are automatically smoothed out so that there are no obvious jumps from one frame to the next. LRTimelapse allows keyframing and grading of time-lapse sequences in an all RAW file-based workflow, as well as creating day to night time-lapse transitions easily and helping to get rid of annoying flicker effects in your sequence, all in the comfort of Lightroom. It is intended as a convenience for those who want to monitor the ever-changing ecosystem - both in terms of the equipment, software, people and the ideas underlying their activities.
If your camera doesn’t have a built-in intervalometer, you will have to use an external one in order to set the interval between the shots. Once all of the pictures appear in your Lightroom Library, click on ‘Develop’ in the upper right corner of the screen. Then right click on the pictures, go to ‘develop settings’ and then scroll down to the the ‘user presets’ which will be displayed at the bottom of the menu.

You could apply the same zooming and panning effects to all the clips in one composition, but you will have to create longer transitions between the sequences in order to give the camera enough time to reposition. Click on the ‘snail’ icon in your camera settings, hold the mouse button and drag the cursor over to the null object. Then, click on the stopwatch icon which will add a yellow marker at the beginning of the sequence. Moving from the first yellow indicator on the timeline to the second, the camera should pan to the centre of the image and then, moving from the second indicator to the third, it should zoom out to the original size. Decide on the duration of your transition and make the clips overlap by the same amount of time.
Place the time indicator at the beginning of the overlap (that’s where the transition will begin) and press the stopwatch icon. Check out Envato StudioAdd motion graphics to your projects: Animations, lower thirds templates, transitions, background loops and more.
White balance needs to be set on auto, since it will change over the course of the shoot as the light changes. You will notice that all the key frames that LR Time Lapse marked will be copied over to Lightroom with one, two or even three stars. It basically involves taking a series of photographs, maintaining the same interval between the shots, and compiling them into a movie clip. Use a longer shutter speed (2-4s) in order to capture moving sources of light that produce interesting patterns and light trails. This can be quite tricky, therefore, it’s best to work on and export every clip individually. Then, click on the stopwatch icon which will add a yellow marker at the beginning of the clip. Next, zoom in by dragging the blue z axis and then, dragging the red x axis, move the null object to the left edge of the screen. Then, move the time indicator to the middle of your sequence and move the null object to the centre of the preview screen by dragging the red x axis.
Obviously, you can zoom in first and then pan the camera, or pan the camera from right to left, up and down and across the screen. One of them is editing only the key frames and allowing LR Time Lapse to blend all the other frames. This technique is ideal to demonstrate events that take substantial time to develop in seconds.
Once the camera starts taking the pictures, resist any temptation to adjust or touch it as it can spoil everything.
Simply click on any of the axes and holding the mouse button move the mouse to adjust the field of view. This would be instances where you adjusted the shutter speed to accommodate for the drop in light.
Today's tutorial will introduce you to a simple and effective workflow concerning time-lapse photography.
In order to create a 20 second long clip, you will have to take approximately 500 pictures.

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