The 1998 Chevrolet Blazer was manufactured with the 4.3 L V-6 engine that has an integrated oil pan on the low side of the motor. Jack the truck up and place it on the jack stands, then remove the front wheels for better access to the underside.
Drain the oil from the oil pan by turning the drain plug in a counterclockwise direction, then allowing the oil to fall into the drain pan. Disconnect the front axles from the hub and differential by turning their bolts in a counterclockwise direction. Disconnect the pitman arm and idler arm, and move them to the side for better access at the oil pan. Unbolt the differential from its mounts by turning the bolts in a counterclockwise direction.
Unbolt the oil pan from the truck by turning all of its bolts in a counterclockwise direction. Apply Mopar® Silicone Adhesive Sealant or equivalent onto the cylinder block in four location as shown. Place the gasket over the dowels and onto the cylinder block and timing case cover (2006 vehicles).
The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to post Please use English characters only. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts and remove the oil pump gasket and intermediate driveshaft. Before installing the oil pump, prime it by filling the inlet and outlet port with engine oil and rotating the shaft of the pump to distribute it. Position the new gasket on the pump body and insert the intermediate driveshaft into the pump body.
It may be necessary to rotate the crankshaft so that there is enough clearance to remove the pan. Place the oil pump and pickup tube in the oil pan, then set the pan on the front crossmember.
Loosen the oil pump housing retainers, then remove the oil pump body plate and square cut O-ring.

On the 4XC1-U engine, disconnect the exhaust pipe bracket and the exhaust pipe at the manifold. Clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surface carefully to remove all traces of the old gasket. If using a silicone sealant, apply the correct width bead of the sealant to the contact surfaces of the oil pan. The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! Using a new gasket and sealant, install the lower oil pan and torque the bolts to 24 and 1996 inch lbs. Refill the crankcase, connect the negative the battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks. Remove the exhaust pipe-to-catalytic converter bolts, the exhaust pipe-to-manifolds bolts and the Y-exhaust pipe.
Remove both bolts from the left axle housing isolator and the right axle housing isolator, then, lower the front axle housing assembly.
The oil pump has two bolts in it, one of them visible in this picture; ita€™s the small bolt right near the harmonic balancer in this picture.
Removing this pan is challenging, as many of the front end components must be removed first, or at least moved out of the way.
The constant velocity joints and axle are a single unit, and once the bolts holding it to the hub and differential are removed, it will come out in one piece. Disconnect the right hand tension rod located under the front bumper to gain access to the oil pan. 2 or equivalent to hold the gasket in place while installing the bolts and to prevent any oil leaks.
Remove the pitman arm-to-pitman arm shaft nut and separate the pitman arm from the pitman shaft. There is no need to remove the entire engine-- the pan can be taken out by an average backyard mechanic in about six hours. It is connected to the frame and the transfer case, but once the frame mounts are loosened the differential can be lowered to gain access to the oil pan.

If the gasket projects unevenly around the oil pan flange, remove the gasket and reinstall carefully. You also have to remove a nut the holds the pick-up tube to the engine, ita€™s about midway back.To get the pan out I had to disconnect my exhaust where the muffler meets the cat, not hard since I put a new cat back on 2 years ago.
This area of the motor is notoriously dirty, and some bolts may be greasy or hard to locate.
Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. It was a pain getting this tight, while keeping the hose in the right place and not over-tightening the filter adapter. With these bolts free, the pan will drop down and can be manipulated out of the truck towards the transmission and transfer case.
YAY! With the pan off you can inspect the bottom end of the motor, everything looked ship shape to me. You have to buy the universal kit because the one designed for the 351W is the older one which does not fit newer blocks. Easier said than done, because the oil pump was heavier it was a PAIN to hold it in place with one finger and try to get a bolt in, and this was also when I played around with the pump shaft for frickina€™ ever.
The rigid oil pan gasket design and revised sealing procedure are being introduced to reduce the possibility of mispositioning the cork-type gaskets during assembly which could result in leaks and repeat repairs. Apply Silicone Sealant to the oil pan gasket and block as indicated when service is required.
FAILURE TO APPLY SEALANT AS INDICATED TO BOTH SIDES OF THE OIL PAN GASKET MAY CAUSE OIL LEAKS. ISSUE A new Silicone Gasket And Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA) material is now available for routine engine service or repair of engine oil leaks.

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