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admin | Get Rid Of Bv | 03.06.2015
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SECUREX Bird Deterrent and Wall Spikes were created to stop security threats at the top of walls or fencing. Security Fencing wall spikes and palisade fencing, manufacutured from 3CR12 to ensure long lasting, aesthetically pleasing barrier systems.
Toppings for security fencing are usually wall spikes, barbed wire, razor wire or concertina wire coils. As regards the MrRails sound sytems, I bought mine over 5 years ago but I've only had it working on a test bed and TBH it was not that realistic. Given the difficulty of fitting onboard DCC Sound into N Gauge locos at that time, it was probably the best alternative solution available at the time but I think that there are better systems around these days and I will shortly be looking around to see what is available for incorporation into my new layout. I know ita€™s only been a couple of days since my last update but Ia€™ve been doing a few things so I thought Ia€™d do another quick update.
As I mentioned in my last update, track-laying has come to a halt until I can establish the position and alignment of the remaining MPD tracks to suit the turntable and various other planned buildings. Next, the bridge sides are attached to the deck and the Plasticard packers are glued into position as shown below. You will see that I have marked a centre line to assist in the positioning of the brass tube sections which are then glued to the packers with Araldite.
It is important to check the position of the brass tubes before the glue dries to make sure that the ends protrude slightly beyond the end of the bridge sides so that the backs of the wheel flanges are held approx 0.5mm away from the plastic. Here is a close-up of the assembled bridge in position in the well and you can see that the wheels run squarely on the plastic rail built into the well. With this modification done the turntable now turns as smooth as silk without any rocking at the ends. Yesterday evening I set to and built some very quick a€?boxesa€™ to represent the various buildings on which the rest of the track alignment depends.
Next up were the MPD sheds, a 3 road shed for steam and a single road shed for diesel maintenance. Finally, by way of a recap, here are a couple of shots of Parmouth Station building in position on the layout.
Now that Ia€™ve done all of this I can get back to track laying which will include sinking 4 inspection pits and an ash pit into the board .
Thank you for the turn table mods, I now have a better idea on how I am going to build the small tank engine sized turntable on NE.
As Ken says, your attention to detail and careful planning based on prototypical practice is paying off and the beginnings of a terrific layout are becoming evident. Does the ring rail inside the well hold the wheels in place, not allowing them to slip out of the brass tube ?
Following on from the turntable modification I've cracked on this week and finished it off by painting and weathering both the turntable itself and the well.
I started by applying a coat of good old Halford's Grey primer to the bridge and a coat of matt brown Plasticoat to the well.
You may or may not be aware that you can replicate the look of concrete kitchen countertops with a concrete underlayment called Ardex Feather Finish, spread onto existing countertops and sealed with multiple layers of sealant…and for a fraction of the cost of custom concrete countertops.View in galleryIn this example, I transformed my tired, scratched, bumpy laminate countertops into contemporary concrete with an industrial vibe.

MAXguard Fence Wall Spikes: An inexpensive, quality product for securing residential and commercial properties. My neigbours cats had shredded the felt off my old shed, so I wanted to find a way to keep them off.
Their service, however, was first class, even to the extent that they produced a one-off stereo system for me.
MrRails themselves have probably improved on their original systems so I will be looking to see what their latest systems are like.
The first thing I decided to sort out was the turntable bridge alignment but I firstly needed to modify the turntable bridge to get rid of the a€?orrible lumps of fixed plastic that masquerade as a€?wheelsa€™ on the Peco kit. This was done with a fine razor saw, making sure to leave the last vertical strut of the bridge sides.
First up was the GWR Coaling Stage for which I have the excellent Mill Lane Sidings lazer-cut wood kit. This merely involved printing out a few of the Scalescenes kit parts to produce the basic outlines of the buildings. It doesna€™t actually look this bright in reality but I think I might still need to increase the resistor size. The axle is about 11mm long so it could not fully come out of the tube anyway but once the bridge is locked down into the well the flange rests against the plastic rail in the well and cannot move outwards.
The final weathering was done with various shades of artists pastel chalks grated on a piece of sandpaper and then brushed around to blend it all in.
I still have to fit the Locomotech motor but that will be done when I get the board up on its side to do all the wiring. The Castle Wall Spike appears very neat and attractive and is the perfect solution Wall Spike Security Fence Supplier: Stainless Steel Wall Spikes, Plastic Wall Spikes Galvanized Spikes. I've nailed these spikes to both sides of the ridge which stops Jacksons Fencing are security and garden fencing manufacturers and contractors supplying fencing, gates, barriers and security fencing.
Another possibility I'm considering is to have static DCC sound effects triggered by reed switches or similar. I cannot claim to have invented this mod as it was first described by Mark Croucher in the July 2002 issue of Railway Modeller. I scanned some of the etches for the 4 walls and, having transferred them onto card, I produced this.
It is, however, important to make sure that the brass tube extends far enough to prevent the back face of the flange from binding on the plastic end of the bridge deck. The deck surface itself was finished with a coat of the same wood stain that I use to weather my track.
The finishing touch was added by just grating some more pastel chalks onto the 'dirtied' surface and then fixing the whole lot with some firm hold hair spray 'borrowed' from SWMBO - but don't tell her that. No fence or wall alone can With security spikes fitted, the Fence Spikes Wall Spikes; Anti Climb Spinners Barriers; Spiked Collars for poles pipes Why should you buy from Insight Security? The best way to keep cats out of your garden is to prevent them getting in in the first place. These fence, wall and windowsill anti-climb security spikes provide an effective, low cost deterrent against unwelcome intruders.

Wall Spikes are a simple yet effective method of enhancing the security of an existing wall or security fence. If anyone wants a detailed list of the parts required please PM me but this is a picture of them. If you need to increase your levels of security on your fencing and gates, our fence spikes could help.
Use your favorite cleaner to wipe everything down.View in galleryView in galleryIf your countertops have any loose edges or bumps, it’s the time to get rid of the moveable material. My countertop had a burned bump that I could push on and move, so I just cut it out.View in galleryIf your countertop has scratches or dents or holes, this covering will take care of those things.
I found it easiest to glop down about a cup-full in the center of my square foot working space.View in galleryPlace your trowel into the concrete and swipe it so that there is a fairly even strip of concrete all across the edge of the trowel.
Pick up trowel, and move over so there is an inch or two of overlap, then spread again in the same direction.View in galleryIf gaps occur, where the concrete runs out, take your putty knife and add in a bit of concrete to the gap. Run trowel over area again to smooth in the new addition.View in galleryWhile you don’t want to run your trowel over and over the same concrete mix (it will start to dry out, and your efforts at smoothing everything out will be thwarted), I found it to be a good idea to drag my trowel in the perpendicular direction after a section was covered. This helped to alleviate major trowel lines.View in galleryContinue in this way, getting a small section looking how you want it before moving on, all around your kitchen countertop surface. It’s important to “complete” a section before moving on, because the dry time of the Ardex Feather Finish is not long.View in galleryUsing the smaller putty knife, spread concrete on the edges of the countertop. I found it best to strive for thick coverage on all corners (like the corner between the countertop’s top surface and the sides) and the edges, because this can be sanded smooth.
The concrete will be a bit drier by this time, but it will still be malleable, which is prime condition for pinching it and getting a corner you really like. Of course, you’ll be able to sand later on, so don’t worry about making it perfect.View in gallery AVOID adding water in spots. One strategy I attempted but now recommend that you AVOID is adding water to my fingertips and spreading the corners smooth, if I miss the window of malleable opportunity. This is also evidence of powder-to-water ratio discrepancies and discoloration, even after it dries.View in galleryView in galleryWhile concrete is still moist, run a paper towel or baby wipe along the edge to clean it up a bit. I kept my sink intact during this entire application process (rather than remove the sink), and this caused no problems.View in galleryUse your finger instead of the trowel, if necessary, to spread the concrete behind the sink.
Keep in mind as you’re going that any irregularities or imperfections can be sanded out later on, so it’s best to just walk away after the surface is spread.
Using your putty knife (or a narrow chisel, as shown), scrape the bottom of the edge smooth.
We wish you the best on your DIY concrete kitchen countertops endeavors and hope you love the end result.

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