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29.06.2015 admin
This router table incorporates all the best features found in those store-bought systems at half the cost! Made from heavy, vibration-absorbing MDF, the cabinet goes together with butt joints and screws. You’ll need a tablesaw, router, jigsaw, belt sander, drill and drill press to build this table. Easy-to-make, sacrificial subfences allow you to make a zero-clearance opening for super-clean, super-safe cuts. You can work at the back of the table to take advantage of the large setback to support big stock, like this door panel.
Photo 3: Trim the built-up top on the tablesaw using the two offset edges against the fence. American Woodworker magazine was acquired by F+W Media (parent company of Popular Woodworking) in 2014. Christopher Schwarz has helped many of us solve some pretty frustrating problems over the years. A freehand guard and a starting pin are a must for routing curved profiles, such as this arch-topped door panel. The only tricky part to making this accessory is getting the holes for the bolts just right.
At AW we’ve had the opportunity to study and use most of the router-table systems on the market.

Glue the plastic laminate (S) to the top and bottom of the substrate with contact cement (Photo 5). That way you’re not having to divide your attention between feeding the stock and keeping it from falling off the table. Slip sticks prevent the plastic laminate from sticking to the top before you have it properly positioned. Once the fence is assembled, the notches form an opening in the fence to accommodate the router bit. It allows you to safely perform end-grain cutting, such as the cope cut on this rail, without having to set your fence perfectly parallel to a miter slot. Simply hold the completed jig up to the fence with the base on the table and mark the T-track opening. It provides plenty of support for work that must be stood on end to rout, such as drawer joints, lock-miter joints and vertical panel raising. The other 10 percent will be at the back of the table, which offers more table support for routing large stock, such as door panels (Photo 4).
The slots in the face allow the subfence to slide back and forth to create the adjustable opening.
When the laminate evenly overlaps all four edges of the top, slip one stick out at a time and apply pressure to the laminate using a block of wood or a roller. Cut the full-length dado at the front of the table first; then cut the stopped rabbets on the two edges.

Even though we designed them specifically for the Best Buy Router Table on page 39, they’re easily adapted to use on almost any router-table system.
Better because the constant pressure holds the piece on both sides of the bit for smooth, washboard-free profiles. Use a square to align the top (S) with the face of the main fence and secure with screws or winged bolts.
Commercial cabinet-based tables sell for $400 to $500; you can build ours for a little more than $200. Cleats (R) are glued at right angles to the support beams to provide a flange for screwing the top down onto the cabinet.
For greater detail on cutting the opening for your mounting plate, see AW #85, February 2001, Hang a Router…Perfectly, page 90.
This will give you two clean edges to place against your tablesaw fence as you cut the top to final dimensions (see Photo 3). The second cut is made to final width and leaves the hardwood perfectly flush with the edges of the MDF.

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